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My CF-600 has sat over most of the winter. Started it yesterday for a short spin around the block. Notice gear lube/oil on the right side front wheel after I parked it. I'm not familiar with the front axle assembly. Are the bearings lubricated in oil and seals and gaskets are used to contain the oil?. Can someone offer advise on the axle assembly if it turns out I'll need to replace seals and gaskets to fix the problem?  

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Before you pop that center plug out ensure your parts supplier has either the complete cap for a replacment, or at least a window kit. Those plastic windows don't hold up that well and harden with time. With my luck the window breaks out as the rubber plug is also hardened from age. Then the screws won't come out from corrosion and I replace the complete cap assembly.....

That looks like a "Stemco" hubcap and the number is cast into the assembly. If you can't read the number the front axle number, or wheel spoke number will be needed if you don't take the original in with you.

BTDT a time or two.

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Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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If that cap hasn't been off of there in a couple of years, you most likely made the correct decision. Those windows really don't last very long at all. There is another brand out there and I can't remember the name that doesn't use a window but still has a rubber plug to check oil level.

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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Not fooling with it right now. Called the local dealer and ordered a replacement before cracking into it.

Edit, it is a Stemco. Change in plans. Ditch the dealer $45.00 for the entire hub. Found a local indy shop who offers a window kit for $7.00. For $7.00 it will be the cheapest repair I've done to the truck so far.

Edited by tenfive0

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Don't put the cart in front of the horse. Get those perimeter screws broken loose in the hub cap that retain the window before going much further. Wouldn't surprise me a bit if over 50% of them snap off clean and you will not be able to extract them. Then of course you need to replace the cap complete.

From doing that same job just a few times I just replace the complete cap. Especially if the truck has seen road salt. Not saying 100% failure, but try to get those screws broken loose first.

Don't think I've ever paid over $30.00 for a Stemco cap complete myself for a Mack steer axle. Even the old 5025 style.

Relay your spoke number on the truck and I'll check an online supplier I've used a few times.

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Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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I've found out nothing is easy. Just put a block heater in the 675 engine. I first had to remove an original core plug that had been in the engine for 47 years. What a pain in the rear end.

I can beat or count on screws will break. It might be cheap but it won't be easy. I just want to check the oil level to see how much leaked out and if the hub needs topping off with oil. The Stemco part number is 343-4025. I thought $45.00 seem a little bit expensive

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I've used BWP Parts, and find it parts.com for eons:

https://www.finditparts.com/products/1944496/bwp-nsi-hc3434025

https://www.finditparts.com/products/454282/stemco-343-4025

Looks like the last hubcap I'd purchased with that part number was back in 2009 so prices have gone up a bit but still less than your original price quote.

 

 

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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You don't need to pull the plug to check oil level, just to add oil. Clean the window, it has add and full lines on it. If you have to add oil you might be able to do so through that drain plug on the bottom left of the cap in the picture. 

Edited by JoeH
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35 minutes ago, JoeH said:

You don't need to pull the plug to check oil level, just to add oil. Clean the window, it has add and full lines on it. If you have to add oil you might be able to do so through that drain plug on the bottom left of the cap in the picture. 

Is the plastic to cloudy to see oil level?      terry:MackLogo:

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Yes, the window is cloudy and I can't see the oil level clearly. I'll try to clean it and use a flash light to see what I can see. The six bolts holding the cap on where lose, some more the others but they were all lost by about a 1/4 to 3/8 turn. I tightened them and maybe it will stop the leak but I'd still like to check the level without disrupting things to much and causing a bigger issue if not needed. I sure a don't want to burn up a wheel bearing do to lack of oil. 

 

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usually with my luck the metal/aluminum will gauld together and corrode and when you try to back the bolt out it will break the bolt circle out of the hubcap....I have put those damn hubcaps on brand new and had them leak out of the window before so I def wouldn't try putting just a window kit in a 45 year old hubcap

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10 minutes ago, Maddog13407 said:

usually with my luck the metal/aluminum will gauld together and corrode and when you try to back the bolt out it will break the bolt circle out of the hubcap....I have put those damn hubcaps on brand new and had them leak out of the window before so I def wouldn't try putting just a window kit in a 45 year old hubcap

What do us old guys know, eh Matt?

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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Well I guess I made a lot to do about nothing. Cleaned up the window around the hub cap to see what I can see with a flashlight. It appears there is still plenty of oil retained in the hub to sufficiently lubricate the wheel bearing. Good news.

Thank to everyone who offered assistance. Without the help I might have torn into the issue and perhaps made a minor oil leak into a bigger problem then need be. I try to stay in tune to routine maintenance and occurrences as they appear to avoid small problems turning into bigger ones.  I'll leave well enough alone and keep an eye on the oil level now that I know what I'm looking for. Perhaps it was just as simple as a few loose bolt.

Mack 11E.jpg

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3 minutes ago, tenfive0 said:

Well I guess I made a lot to do about nothing. Cleaned up the window around the hub cap to see what I can see with a flashlight. It appears there is still plenty of oil retained in the hub to sufficiently lubricate the wheel bearing. Good news.

Thank to everyone who offered assistance. Without the help I might have torn into the issue and perhaps made a minor oil leak into a bigger problem then need be. I try to stay in tune to routine maintenance and occurrences as they appear to avoid small problems turning into bigger ones.  I'll leave well enough alone and keep an eye on the oil level now that I know what I'm looking for. Perhaps it was just as simple as a few loose bolt.

👍👍👍

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Great to hear and thanks for the follow up. Don't feel you stirred a hornet's nest or anything of the like. We would rather seem overboard rather than you be stranded with something destroyed. If it were me, (and I do) get a spare one of those caps to keep in the shop, or truck. You never know when someone is going to knock the center out of them with a shopping cart or something completely out of any kind of suspect. Happened to me twice. Once when an employee was rolling a heavy box using a hand truck and the box caught the rubber plug somehow. Second time when a driveway identification reflector pole, (mounted low) got wrapped in the wheel while backing into a driveway when dark. Both times broke the windows right out but had spares to make the repairs in the trucks.

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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If the bolts were loose, maybe remove each separately and clean/oil the threads?  Dab of never seize?  Keep them from corroding over time.  Replace with stainless hardware?  

I've never had oil caps, but just thinking out loud.

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Larry

1959 B61 Liv'n Large......................

Charter member of the "MACK PACK"

 

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  • 2 months later...

M80

cut to the chase remove hub fit new seals etc n pack with grease n do away with oil in front hubs

While brakes exposed , if not to an ugly mess , lightly wash with petrol to remove oil, do not submerge brakes in petrol

then use a blow torch lightly wipe the flame over the linings to remove all oil

then reassemble

= Dun deal

cya

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Yep

Also

if eye'm aloud an also

Oil run hubs if U develop a leak of oil U might only have 1 hour (if u're lucky) B 4 the bearings run dry n wheel falls off n puts U in a ditch

Grease run hubs if they  develop  a leak U kno U gunna have to fix it sumtime this week/month

Many new Trailers have had fires caused by oil filled trailer hubs leak ..... n catch fire burn n the rig to the ground

oil filled hubs will only save U a buket of diesel  ayear compared to grease

so many R go n back to grease

Edited by Swishy
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It appears neither side of the inside oil seals are leaking. When I first noticed a leak earlier in March it was on the right side. Currently the left side has become noticeable. It appears the right side leak was reduced or eliminated when I tightened the six bolts holding the Stemco on to the hub. I can't remember when I tightened the right side if I did the left while at it but I'm 99.9% pretty sure I did.

The leak on either side has only appeared or shown evident on the outside of the hub with no signs of oil behind the wheel when inspected. If it is just a matter of replacing the Stemco hubcaps, I'll give that a try before pulling the entire hub assembly apart. It seems like the easiest solution at this point to just replace the Stemco. I can see how oil instead of grease could be problematic. Switching to grease might be something to consider but right now I'm not prepared to take on disassembling anything further if the Stemco is the only issue causing oil to escape. I’ll do the left side first for now to see if the problem is remedied. Until this issue was brought to my attention, I've only known front wheel bearings to be packed in grease. I was not aware of oiled front wheel bearings. That was the cause for my initial query to the forum. I didn't want to tear into something I was unfamiliar with causing a bigger issue.

Edit: After a closer look this afternoon I found the problem. The plastic window is brittle and most definitely CRACKED.

Edited by tenfive0
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