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1. Check that the magneto points are set to the right gap (15 thou for a FU4)

2. Set the mag at full advance

3. Set cylinder no 1 (front of truck) to 20 degrees or 3 inches on the flywheel  before top dead centre (check through the upper airduct hand hole, there is a pointer)

4. Unclamp the mag drive so that the mag shaft can be moved independent of the engine and rotate so that the distributor arm is pointing at the sector in the cap that corresponds to the lead running to No1 cylinder

5. Fine adjust the mag so that the points are just opening (you can put a bulb and battery across or use a multimeter) then clamp up the mag drive.

 

  • Like 1

 The hand hole/ inspection cover in in the drivers compartment fan cover. Rectangular cover held on with 8 screws.

Interested on how to unclamp the magneto too.

"OPERTUNITY IS MISSED BY MOST PEOPLE BECAUSE IT IS DRESSED IN OVERALLS AND LOOKS LIKE WORK"  Thomas Edison

 “Life’s journey is not to arrive at the grave safely, in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting ‘Holy shit, what a ride!’

P.T.CHESHIRE

Possible but also may be a matter of readjusting the low speed jet and idle screw to bring it down. The idle may have been raised to compensate for the wear issues in the magneto when it was a working unit..

"OPERTUNITY IS MISSED BY MOST PEOPLE BECAUSE IT IS DRESSED IN OVERALLS AND LOOKS LIKE WORK"  Thomas Edison

 “Life’s journey is not to arrive at the grave safely, in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting ‘Holy shit, what a ride!’

P.T.CHESHIRE

On ‎5‎/‎18‎/‎2019 at 7:07 PM, ekennedy21 said:

seems to be running well now, but it is idling substantially higher then before the magneto rebuild. Could his be related to the timing? 

It could be - if you are slightly to far advanced at idle it will run a bit quicker. More likely to be the carb though. As long as you don't get pinking when pulling with the ignition advanced then the spark must be more or less in the right place.

2 hours ago, ekennedy21 said:

somebody told be that switching from a zenith updraft carb to a stromburg sf-2 will fix all my problems.

There a 9 different venturi sizes for the Strumberg SF2/SFM2 they range from 13/16" up to 1 1/16" and some have a Drip Tube set up to prevent gravity siphoning of fuel on shut down. I personally think checking the throttle linkage is allowing the butterfly to lay against the curb idle screw, adjusting the Zenith Lo Speed mixture and fine tuning it overall to work with the modern crap gas would be you best bet. 

My ACs all have different carbs, 3 have Tillotson, 2 have Zenith and 1 has a Strumberg SF1/SFM1 .

Edited by 41chevy

"OPERTUNITY IS MISSED BY MOST PEOPLE BECAUSE IT IS DRESSED IN OVERALLS AND LOOKS LIKE WORK"  Thomas Edison

 “Life’s journey is not to arrive at the grave safely, in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting ‘Holy shit, what a ride!’

P.T.CHESHIRE

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