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8 minutes ago, Steve 97 said:

Ya we have one kit here just wasn’t sure if adding the oil lines would solve the problem 

I don't think I've ever successfully fixed one with just the kit, but have fixed many with kit and lines. Do both. Make sure you have the new style oil feed screws, and remove the little ball and spring from the bottom.

The kits usually had instructions in there.

Crank bearings are = or < critical than camshaft bearings in capturing the oil drop-out. Line kits help, it’s not a waste of time.  

Update Jakes

install externals (lines) w/flow check

high volume oil pump

p1 bearings on mains

new cam bearings if all else fails. 

Edited by Mack Technician
1 hour ago, steeler said:

I don't think I've ever successfully fixed one with just the kit, but have fixed many with kit and lines. Do both. Make sure you have the new style oil feed screws, and remove the little ball and spring from the bottom.

The kits usually had instructions in there.

Not sure they are fixable!

you can maybe improve  but fix not so much

Does a mechanical 1995 e7-350 fall under the same guidelines? One head always works, the other head works 80% of the time. Usually cuts out after pulling hard. Typically works again after going easy on the motor for a bit. 19,000+ hours on the motor.

Edited by JoeH
2 hours ago, Steve 97 said:

Can a guy put the power leash on mine instead of trying to fix the jake

 No, unfortunately. A reverse engineered ASET AI is the closest you’ll get to your engine with a great brake. 

Edited by Mack Technician

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