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Good afternoon.  I'm having trouble figuring out the quick connect air fittings on the firewall.  I've got a couple leaking but cant see how to remove them.  I think they have an o-ring behind the fittings?  Any help would be appreciated!

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1 minute ago, terry said:

If you are talking the yellow and two brown fittings, push them in and tubing will slide out.     terry:MackLogo:

That's what I thought. After looking at this photo closer they may be to dirty to push in.  Once the tubing is out, can the fitting be removed or repaired?

1 minute ago, Deere Mack said:

That's what I thought. After looking at this photo closer they may be to dirty to push in.  Once the tubing is out, can the fitting be removed or repaired?

Maybe spray some kind:MackLogo: of cleaner before pushing in, then when tubing is out clean it good and reassemble, push tubing in and slide collar out. might just seal it up.    terry

as said, those are synflex connectors and push in to remove the air line. you will need to spray penetrating oil in the fittings to loosen up the crud that has built up over time. then possibly blow out with compressed air to get it out of the fitting before trying to remove the line. 

when you are up to your armpits in alligators,

it is hard to remember you only came in to drain the swamp..

a GOOD truck parts place sells a set of pliers for them.
Used to have a set

 

but still clean real good. may need a 3/8 open end wrench to get it to push in

 

Success is only a stones throw away.................................................................for a Palestinian

Used those in high school in our robotics program, they're not as good as the ferrel type synflex fittings but these are faster to change out the synflex. Push in on the tubing, hold the collar depressed and the synflex should pull out while you depress the collar.

To install new synflex your cut has to be square and clean, no burr. Just shove the synflex in then give it a tug to make sure the fitting got a bite.  No need to do anything with collar on install.

Thanks for the all the tips!  I haven't got back around to this problem just yet, other problems got put in front of this problem.  Think I bought someone else's problem or my ocd is getting the best of me.  I like everything to be right!

  • 2 weeks later...
On 8/10/2019 at 8:57 AM, Deere Mack said:

Thanks for the all the tips!  I haven't got back around to this problem just yet, other problems got put in front of this problem.  Think I bought someone else's problem or my ocd is getting the best of me.  I like everything to be right!

Your OCD getting rubbed raw on that AI engine? Or liking it?

20 hours ago, Mack Technician said:

Your OCD getting rubbed raw on that AI engine? Or liking it?

It's not bad.  Seems to have plenty of power on the top side but a little sluggish coming out of the hole. If I'm loaded and on a slight incline it seems to want the low gear to get going and it's supposed to have 4.64 rears.  The mack trans is what I'm not thrilled about, it's a lot different than the Eaton fuller 8LL in my CH.

On 8/24/2019 at 11:50 AM, Mack Technician said:

Time to come over to the dark-side :SMOKIE-LFT:  and drive a truck that makes Prius drivers swear out loud?

The payback is that you won't have to shift that T300 Mack transmission so much. AMI-370 is a good program and candidate.

Yes sir I'm very impressed and really appreciate that thread!  I've got to see if it'll be worthy. Got a few repairs and adjustments first and that was the plan all along.   Might be my winter project.

  • Thanks 1
  • 2 months later...

UPDATE!  I messed with this for a while before giving up a replacing the air manifold on the firewall.  Got the quick connects out of the manifold and the o ring.  Cleaned it all up, trimmed up the lines etc. and I believe if I could have found the exact o ring I could have repaired it, but good luck with that.  The o rings get hard and crack.   Went all over north Alabama looking for that thing. If its not perfect it will not seal off. 

Edited by Deere Mack
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