Issues with engine swap. Looking for advice.

[Honestpete]

Ok, here’s my issue, I’ve got a 2000 model CH613 with a 427 motor. I have one truck, bought less than a year before this started. I didn’t have a lot of money put back in savings yet.

Back in June I had a piston break apart in cylinder #3, really irrelevant to the final question but you gotta know how I ended up here. Took it to mechanic #1 we’ll call him Lazy Pete, he tells me, “#3 piston broke up, sent the rod through the block, can’t fix it need a new motor.” So I scoured the internet and found a motor. I talk to Lazy Pete and he says He can put the motor in no problem, but he won’t release the truck until paid in full, fair enough. I talk to mechanic #2, we’ll call him Sneaky Pete, he says he’ll put the motor in, I cover the parts and I can pay out the rest once I’m back on the road. 
 

So now we’re getting in to July, I’ve got a motor ordered being shipped to Sneaky Pete’s Garage, I have the truck towed to Sneaky Pete’s Garage to start removal of old engine, he pulls the head off to double check the damage, turns out, there’s a light scratch in the sleeve of cylinder #3 and that’s it. No hole in the block, no permanent damage, I could rebuild cylinder 3 and be back on the road in no time. But I’ve already spent the money on a used engine that I can’t get a refund on. Sneaky Pete says that’s actually good because the piston pieces he recovered have the Chinese aftermarket numbers on them, and yada yada yada never rebuild with anything less than Mack aftermarket blah got it.

 

So the new motor is a 2003 427, my truck is 2000, everybody I talked to said it shouldn’t be a huge deal to swap sides on the computer mounting bracket so I can use my computer and wiring etc..
 

Well let me tell you, horse *expletive*, the only thing that the mechanic was able to keep on the new motor was the block, everything else, the water plumbing, air plumbing in and out, power steering, air compressor, everything had to be used off my old motor, we even had to use the heads off my old motor because the new heads didn’t have Jakes installed, and the pin layout for the heads had changed so that my style jakes wouldn’t fit on that head.
 

Long story short, Sneaky Pete got everything put together finally, he squeezed in a few jobs in between my stuff which meant my truck sat outside with a disassembled motor for longer than I’d have liked, but I get it, paying customers come first. So it’s all back together but it won’t start, says it seems the timing is wrong, contacted some engineers at Mack, says the camshaft is slightly different from the old motor, he’s hoping a sensor on the camshaft needs to be changed, or just the computer reprogrammed. He’s waiting to hear back from some other engineers at Mack. But it’s been almost 2-weeks now since it was finally reassembled, I’ve been down since mid-June and would like to get back rolling soon. It’s now mid November.
 

Here’s where the advice comes in, has anyone else put a newer motor ideally 2003ish to an older truck ideally 2000ish

Does anyone know about the different cam timing? Is there some insight I can bestow upon Sneaky Pete that will get this thing started sooner. Otherwise he’s waiting to hear back from the special engineers at Mack but even that shouldn’t have been two week return. 
 

 

[h67st]

Man, what a hassle! I wish I knew something about these to help you out.

[Maxidyne]

Given that you found non original parts in the original engine, that may not be the original engine. Or the "original" engine may be only a 300 or 350 horse, "uprated" by an over zealous seller. IIRC some of the 12 liter engines also used an offset cam drive and the could throw the timing off a bit, but even a couple degrees off it should still start. Such are the hassles of 20 year old trucks, and good on the Mack engineers for helping you out.

[Mack Technician]

Your 2000 is a pre CCRS engine. The 2003 is a CCRS engine. The CCRS has things like double injection cycles, spring loaded push tubes, powerleash engine brake, head differences, different injectors that have no leak circuit, etc. Quite a few little invisible differences that make it a completely different engine. Been good if you had asked us before you purchased, but that's beside the point. The best bet would have been to fix your original power plant. If your on the horn with Mack engineering/technical that will be the best place to continue your push to a solution. Sneaky Pete is renamed "Misinformed Pete". You mistakenly jump from a tier 2 engine to a tier 3 emission engine. 

Pete doesn't want to tell you he needs to also swap the camshaft from the old engine, in all likelihood he may have already been told that from Mack?

Good Luck 🍀 either way, hopefully I’m wrong! 

Edited November 12, 2019 by Mack Technician

[fjh]

Yup this is like the Gas or electric  company would say! Call Before you dig! 

[Mack Technician]

1 hour ago, fjh said:

Yup this is like the Gas or electric  company would say! Call Before you dig! 

Just Say’in!!!

Edit 😆