Ditchdiggerjcf Posted February 28, 2020 Author Share Posted February 28, 2020 We can tell enough to know those aren't the right numbers. I think they will work though. Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/60866-mack-rl-question/page/4/#findComment-443970 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ditchdiggerjcf Posted February 28, 2020 Author Share Posted February 28, 2020 Better? Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/60866-mack-rl-question/page/4/#findComment-443973 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Posted February 29, 2020 Share Posted February 29, 2020 Sounds as if you have it figured out. I know what I would do but that is my opinion. Good luck with your project. Quote Plodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke. Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/60866-mack-rl-question/page/4/#findComment-443986 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ditchdiggerjcf Posted February 29, 2020 Author Share Posted February 29, 2020 What would you do? Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/60866-mack-rl-question/page/4/#findComment-443988 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Posted February 29, 2020 Share Posted February 29, 2020 Build my mounts without question. Quote Plodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke. Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/60866-mack-rl-question/page/4/#findComment-443990 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ditchdiggerjcf Posted February 29, 2020 Author Share Posted February 29, 2020 Best I can tell these mounts are going to position the engine just about the 5/8" forward that was mentioned in a previous post. It would save me a whole day and probably $200 in material to fab mounts. It's springtime, I have dumped a shit ton of money in that old girl last year getting her ready for some big jobs coming up. She needs to go to work badly. I have two more just like her I need to get done. Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/60866-mack-rl-question/page/4/#findComment-443992 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Posted February 29, 2020 Share Posted February 29, 2020 No harm in trying. I know what I build will work but don't have a lot of time for trial and error. This is not an R&D project so attempting to help you. If you got the time then you should go with your "gut" feeling. Nobody on the internet is going to solve your problem using incorrect (by part number) items for the application; only you can do that with your ingenuity and persistence. Quote Plodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke. Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/60866-mack-rl-question/page/4/#findComment-443995 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ditchdiggerjcf Posted February 29, 2020 Author Share Posted February 29, 2020 I realize they are not the right parts. I am 99% sure they will work though. I wouldn't try them if I wasn't sure. The only problem I might have is that they are not long enough to account for the extra width of a west coast frame. I can fix that with some spacers between the mount and the trans if I need to. Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/60866-mack-rl-question/page/4/#findComment-444000 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Posted February 29, 2020 Share Posted February 29, 2020 A tape measure, good spirit level, (or digital if not proficient with the former) along with some string are what you need and are of the simplest tools required. A calibrated tram gauge is even better yet. Take your string and affix it at two points hanging down from the transmission. Tie your spirit level to the string and adjust it so show perfectly level in the vial. Remove your rear engine mounting bolts through the insulators, jack the engine/trans forward till it sets in the front trunion mount correctly, center the transmission equidistant from the frame rails using the rear universal joint as a reference point. Measure the amount of offset needed for the rear engine mount bolt holes to align correctly with the frame mounted parts of the rear engine mountings, and conjure a plan with your existing parts to make them all fit together. After sliding the engine forward and installing your replacement rear engine mountings onto the transmission and with the insulators in place, ensure the spirit level still shows level as this is keeping your driveline angle in the same plane it was. You shouldn't have to mess with any of this but may have too depending on what has been done. It is MUCH easier to change those transmission mounted rear engine mounts when the transmission is not in a truck but it can be done with them installed. After the initial measurements are taken in the truck, measurements of both the existing mounts, and replacement mounts coupled with some good ole fashioned deductive reasoning will lead you to the most efficient path for correction. 2 Quote Plodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke. Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/60866-mack-rl-question/page/4/#findComment-444009 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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