Dmurph2016 Posted February 10, 2020 Share Posted February 10, 2020 I’m looking to buy a Rolloff truck and am looking for some info on the e7 motor in Mack’s from 1997-03 those are the years I’m looking at. I’ve found a few trucks that the mileage Ranges from 200-300k miles and 300-800k miles. How many miles can these engines go before a rebuild? Should I avoid the higher mileage trucks? thanks! Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/60928-1997-2003-e7s/ Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mack Technician Posted February 10, 2020 Share Posted February 10, 2020 The 1997 to mid year 1998 engines were a million mile engine. I’d argue the best engine Mack made. They can be mechanical or electronic fuel control during that generation. The mid 1998 to 99 e tech were decent. The 2000-2001 had cam issues and weak Jakes, some lowest bidder crap going on with Mack’s blood-parasite company Volvo. The 2002 CCRS was again a move to greatness. At 2003 the CCRS got wrecked by emissions systems. You can manipulate those to make them a decent runner. Engines that old can deteriorate soft parts, so calc in for time. A low miles 97’ can never be considered fresh. Check coolant protection (nitrites) and note the SCA levels and don’t buy it if they are running NAPA green or whatever cheap coolant. You’ll have a pitted block. 2 Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/60928-1997-2003-e7s/#findComment-442411 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dmurph2016 Posted February 10, 2020 Author Share Posted February 10, 2020 1 hour ago, Mack Technician said: The 1997 to mid year 1998 engines were a million mile engine. I’d argue the best engine Mack made. They can be mechanical or electronic fuel control during that generation. The mid 1998 to 99 e tech were decent. The 2000-2001 had cam issues and weak Jakes, some lowest bidder crap going on with Mack’s blood-parasite company Volvo. The 2002 CCRS was again a move to greatness. At 2003 the CCRS got wrecked by emissions systems. You can manipulate those to make them a decent runner. Engines that old can deteriorate soft parts, so calc in for time. A low miles 97’ can never be considered fresh. Check coolant protection (nitrites) and note the SCA levels and don’t buy it if they are running NAPA green or whatever cheap coolant. You’ll have a pitted block. So there’s a few trucks that I want to look at, they are about 6 hours away thought so I need to learn as much as I can first 1: 2000 Mack rd688 with 770k miles 2: 2001 Mack rd600 with 239k miles with an new reman engine (supposedly) 3: 1997 Mack rd688 with 380k miles 4: 1988 Mack rd688 with 700k miles 5: 2000 Mack rd688w with 421k I think the lowest mile truck would probably be the best but I’m not sure how many miles is too many to consider Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/60928-1997-2003-e7s/#findComment-442424 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mack Technician Posted February 10, 2020 Share Posted February 10, 2020 If you want to play it safe go for a long road test with the one you like, drop a tube down the fill, suck an oil sample, send it in and get your answer. 1 Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/60928-1997-2003-e7s/#findComment-442427 Share on other sites More sharing options...
bts-4120 Posted February 12, 2020 Share Posted February 12, 2020 I've had good luck with my 2001 427 bought it with little over 500k on it they had already been in the motor already though Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/60928-1997-2003-e7s/#findComment-442600 Share on other sites More sharing options...
masterwelder Posted February 16, 2020 Share Posted February 16, 2020 I have Two 2001 427s, one in a tractor (15sp eaton)with 1.2 million on it and the other in a dump (8ll eaton) with 350k. The tractor was rebuilt at 600k, not sure why. Dump was gone into at 100k because of an oil leak in the block from a casting issue. Tractor currently runs like a top. Was a fleet truck pulling fuel tankers. Dump started life as a milk tanker. Was set up as a dump in 2010. I’m currently putting a new Beau-Roc 17’ dump, new 3 piece trunnion and paint frame and box. There were issues with these motors when new but at this point that should all be worked out for the most part. Pretty dam good engine overall. Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/60928-1997-2003-e7s/#findComment-442970 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dmurph2016 Posted February 29, 2020 Author Share Posted February 29, 2020 Dumb question, but did all trucks come with block heaters? Or is that an option? Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/60928-1997-2003-e7s/#findComment-444047 Share on other sites More sharing options...
j hancock Posted March 3, 2020 Share Posted March 3, 2020 I believe it was an option. Quote JimIt doesn't cost anything to pay attention. Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/60928-1997-2003-e7s/#findComment-444334 Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeH Posted March 5, 2020 Share Posted March 5, 2020 I owned a 2001 etech 400, I couldn't find a single freeze plug on the engine, let alone a block heater. I'm sure it had freeze plugs, but I couldn't find them... Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/60928-1997-2003-e7s/#findComment-444464 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dmurph2016 Posted March 13, 2020 Author Share Posted March 13, 2020 On 3/3/2020 at 10:08 AM, j hancock said: I believe it was an option. I’m wondering if a block heater can be added, I think in the winter it would really help starting Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/60928-1997-2003-e7s/#findComment-445215 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Posted March 13, 2020 Share Posted March 13, 2020 1 hour ago, Thetrashnoob said: I’m wondering if a block heater can be added, I think in the winter it would really help starting Yup. A Kat's tank type heater would install into a heater hose easily and are readily available at most parts stores. No disrespect meant but given your post you have no experience installing one of these. They will have instructions included and you should follow them step by step. Do not apply power to this heater until you have run the engine for at least five minutes to circulate coolant and purge air from it to not burn it up. If run dry of coolant and power is applied, it will burn the element open on short order. 1 Quote Plodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke. Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/60928-1997-2003-e7s/#findComment-445224 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.