R-model cab resto report

[Vladislav]

3 hours ago, mowerman said:

holy shit,,,,i didnt realize you were doing all that,,

Sometimes me either

[mrsmackpaul]

Looking really good Vlad

You'ved delved into a R model cab further than 

Great stuff, just hope you remember how it all goes back together 

 

Paul 

[Whiskymack]

Vlad,

That is just amazing work. You have incredible skills and it wouldn't surprise me if you built an entire truck from the ground up!

Thanks for posting so many images. There's plenty of great reference here for super-detailing on models.

[Vladislav]

On 3/16/2020 at 9:37 AM, mrsmackpaul said:

Looking really good Vlad

You'ved delved into a R model cab further than 

Great stuff, just hope you remember how it all goes back together 

 

Paul 

Paul,

I've got plenty of pics during the work. Actually tried to photo every step before and after the action. Also I have another truck complete and a couple of complete cabs to look for reference and steal a part or two when in trouble.

[Vladislav]

On 3/18/2020 at 2:28 PM, Whiskymack said:

Vlad,

That is just amazing work. You have incredible skills and it wouldn't surprise me if you built an entire truck from the ground up!

Thanks for posting so many images. There's plenty of great reference here for super-detailing on models.

Alastair,

Building a truck from "the ground up" is actually what I try to do. It attracts by an idea to have every thing fixed and freshened up (and also played with) but bothers me with the amount of time spent. You know that very well with modelbuilding. Almost the same matter but different amount of resources involved. Yes, you're right, I spotted many interesting areas you can't usually see on a truck during my work. Was even thinking of taking all basic measurements off the cab floor, firewall etc to make scetches for building a scaled cab. But couldn't afford additional activity. Actually I sure made more pics than I post on here so if you have any interest feel free to ask via PM.

[Vladislav]

I might be calling the continue as a Part #3 since it was done in a paint shop and mostly by a buddy of mine who enjoys figuring of how some primer or clear coat is better or better to work with and also a big fan of sanding, spraying, polishing etc.

After primering the cab all over with self-etch stuff he applied two layers of another primer-filler off the same line of materials as prescribed by the producent. Than sprayed black acrylic paint onto the bottom covering also the areas which were supposed to be closed such as rocker insides and the rear floor channel. The reason of painting was more efficient water protection since primer is not supposed to resist water. It sure can to some grade and it might be enough by practical reasons but I preferred to double secure the matter since the worth of that additional effort was tiny relating to the whole value of the entertainment.

 

 

Edited March 21, 2020 by Vladislav

[Vladislav]

After the paint set hard enough we prepped areas to install a patch to close up the floor rear channel. The patch was also painted but on the side facing the channel inside only. It had happened when a lot of parts was painted it was not enough paint mixed so my buddy saved a bit of paint. The outer side would be painted later anyway so no issue. I just explains this point because the pictures show the patch covered with primer only. But in fact everything was under control

I took my helper guy for two more hands in action. Being 3 in number we applied zig-zags of sealer from a tube, glued up the patch and attached it with half a hundred of 10-32" machine screws and nuts. Than smoothened up the excess of the sealer forced out of the seam by brush and added some onto the screw heads and other spots. Turned out as 30 minutes of hectic work with extensive solvent hand wash afterwards.

[Vladislav]

Installed the roof reinforcement strips. When I bend them I could achive some spring action of those since they were thick enough. So when in place they put tension to the roof sheet keeping it from flipping. Set them on body sealer for the same reason and for additional strength increase for a case if anyone would try dancing on the roof again until the time I see it and kill them.

When the roof got supported the body guy could start applying filler on it to bring it back into the correct shape.

Edited March 21, 2020 by Vladislav

[Vladislav]

A layer of sprayed sealer was applied onto the floor underside. After that we could install the sub-structure. Put sealer, installed the channels and attached them with bolts and nuts as was designed.

[Vladislav]

Prepaired to install the rocker panels. There was an issue I couldn't attach the upper edge of rockers to the sills with screws because of no place to hide the heads/nuts. So had to weld them there. Cheered up myself by being able to apply primer to the inside of the seam. Also that area would be along the top of the rocker inside and water collects along the bottom so seemed Ok. Ground paint off over the holes drilled for welds to not be burned up.

[Vladislav]

Put the rocker panels in place.

[Vladislav]

The body guy welded the rockers with door sills. Than ground the welds and put self-etch primer to the seam by brush so it spilled all along the gap.

[Vladislav]

A bit more time passed and the whole floor underside was covered with spray body sealer and than painted for better water protection and easier dirt cleaning.

[Rob]

You're doing a very fine job Vlad. If you can stand the expense, run a conduit through the rocker boxes, "A" pillars, and "B" pillars then use soft set expanding foam sealer to fill these area(s) which will absolutely deaden any chance of reverberation or sound transmission/conveyance through these areas. The conduits are for stringing wires through upon buildup.  

[Vladislav]

4 hours ago, Rob said:

You're doing a very fine job Vlad. If you can stand the expense, run a conduit through the rocker boxes, "A" pillars, and "B" pillars then use soft set expanding foam sealer to fill these area(s) which will absolutely deaden any chance of reverberation or sound transmission/conveyance through these areas. The conduits are for stringing wires through upon buildup.  

Thank you for the idea Rob, sounds interesting. But honestly I worry to fill the rockers and other insides with solid foam. Should be good but difficult to figure a case if any rust show up and start spreading along a steel surface under foam. Or maybe I'm just not used to such situation. There should be no rust expected if everything is blasted/painted with no restovers of corrosion. So far I still prefere a more common method of spraying the insides with wax based protectant. Sound and vibration deadening is sure a good reason to use foam but rockers and different pillars don't seem as the sound soursing areas. I more lean toward expecting sounds from below the floor and firewall.

[Rob]

3 hours ago, Vladislav said:

Thank you for the idea Rob, sounds interesting. But honestly I worry to fill the rockers and other insides with solid foam. Should be good but difficult to figure a case if any rust show up and start spreading along a steel surface under foam. Or maybe I'm just not used to such situation. There should be no rust expected if everything is blasted/painted with no restovers of corrosion. So far I still prefere a more common method of spraying the insides with wax based protectant. Sound and vibration deadening is sure a good reason to use foam but rockers and different pillars don't seem as the sound soursing areas. I more lean toward expecting sounds from below the floor and firewall.

The rockers and pillars are  troughs for sound to travel in. They themselves are not the source of the noise. The foam I mentioned is not a solid, or rigid product, but rather very soft and supple like rubber. it is waterproof and removes easily with a portable heat gun, or infra red lamp. It is great for suppressing panel rattles.

I used the waxed based products for many years on brand new vehicles and was the distributor for "Auto Armor" rust protectant in this area. I still have all the equipment and several bottles of the product from my now closed auto body shop.

[mackey58]

Man that's quite an awesome project keep updating

[Vladislav]

6 hours ago, mackey58 said:

Man that's quite an awesome project keep updating

Thanks, I will do

[mowerman]

I was wondering why you just didn’t order a brand new cab same as it would’ve been a lot easier and a lot cheaper although I do admire all that beautiful work .bob

[mowerman]

I never think about coming here I do have interior and body parts for sale I will be advertising one of these days ha ha yes again hats off to you ....bob

[Freightrain]

Outstanding work Vlad.  You have surely gone above and beyond to make that cab as new as possible.

[41chevy]

2 hours ago, mowerman said:

I was wondering why you just didn’t order a brand new cab same as it would’ve been a lot easier and a lot cheaper although I do admire all that beautiful work .bob

 Think about shipping a new cab on a ship on the ocean, sitting in a port on both sides of the ocean with all that fine salt sea air . In a year or to Vlad would have to do all this repairs any way.  Paul

[Vladislav]

16 hours ago, 41chevy said:

 Think about shipping a new cab on a ship on the ocean, sitting in a port on both sides of the ocean with all that fine salt sea air . In a year or to Vlad would have to do all this repairs any way.  Paul

Absolutely true!

[Vladislav]

On 3/22/2020 at 7:56 PM, mowerman said:

I was wondering why you just didn’t order a brand new cab same as it would’ve been a lot easier and a lot cheaper although I do admire all that beautiful work .bob

I doubt you can still order brand new R-model cabs (RD for square hood is different). Also if you would I'd expect its worth of 10 grand or more. And actually if you want to make it really nice (show quality) i.e. paint it well and to a color you like, make good rust protection and other preferrable modifications you would need to apply about a half of the above jobs to it.

In fact the work didn't cost as much as you would pay for it in the US.because labour is much cheaper here. Maybe even not labout itself but you don't add taxes, business insurance and other sufficient costs which your country's economy redirect to supply state and social needs.

[mowerman]

Ok I gotcha plus I’m sure you enjoyed all of it