Mike Posted December 1, 2008 Share Posted December 1, 2008 I know this question has been asked before but, I needed a little more clairification. I looked through some of the former topics in this site about engine oil but could not find a real definite answer for this engine. Before the final sale of the truck I own, I asked what oil was being used and they said SAE 30 weight. I was shown the gallon jug of Delvac 1300 15w40 but still not sure as to what oil to use, since this oil is not on most shelves. Can I get an analysis somewhere local of my oil and go from there on what oil to use? I would like to use what most trucks use today but, not at an engine breakdown expense. Will someone help me with this decission?Thank You!!!mike Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/6219-which-oil/ Share on other sites More sharing options...
Firemack Posted December 1, 2008 Share Posted December 1, 2008 Mike,I have heard over the years that Shell Rotella T was best for older truck engines. I contacted Shell and they recommended Shell Rotella T single weight. I use Shell Rotella SAE 40W as our truck is stored inside in the heated engine bay with the other fire trucks. I can buy it at Napa but they special order the straight weight as they don't carry that in stock. By the way we also use Shell Rotella T in our Detroit, Cummins and Ford diesels and have had very few engine problems, most issues with Firetrucks are with the electrical systems, and alternators, but now that we are upgrading to LEDS and that should help reduce the load and therefore hopefully we will not have the electrical issues as we upgrade all of the lights to LED's, except on the Mack.Firemack Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/6219-which-oil/#findComment-25716 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rawleigh Posted December 1, 2008 Share Posted December 1, 2008 I think that Rotella single weight still has ZDDP in it. i know that the multiweight has the newer rating for 2007 and later trucks, and the ZDDP has been taken out. ZDDP is a zinc additive that helps lubricate flat tappet cams. Without it they will get wiped. Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/6219-which-oil/#findComment-25718 Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris142 Posted December 2, 2008 Share Posted December 2, 2008 I think that Rotella single weight still has ZDDP in it. i know that the multiweight has the newer rating for 2007 and later trucks, and the ZDDP has been taken out. ZDDP is a zinc additive that helps lubricate flat tappet cams. Without it they will get wiped.They did not remove the ZDDP. They did lower it from something like 1300ppm to 1100ppm. I have sent several used oil samples from my 47 yr old Cummins and the Rotella-T 15w-40 does a great job in it.Depending on where you live the WalMart Supertech oil is either made by Mobil or Warren. The oil made by Mobil is almost identical to the Mobil Delvac oil. Thats whats goin in mine next. The Warren stuff is ok but is a notch down from the Delo, Rotella and Delvac oils. Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/6219-which-oil/#findComment-25741 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Freightrain Posted December 2, 2008 Share Posted December 2, 2008 I've been putting Rotella 15w40 in my B for years now. I change it once a year no matter the miles on it. Figure after 50 yrs, I'd clean out the gunk that might have built up.I wonder about the need of ZDDP. My '67 F100 pickup runs Valvoline 10w40 in it and it's got 150K miles on it. Pretty sure they've removed it from all the base oils, but I think with the age and wear patternand lighter valve springs it's not as critical to have? I've wondered about it.I run the Racing Valvoline(has zddp) in all my hot rods as they are "newer" built motors(by me) and with the heavy valve springs I'm concerned with making sure they don't get wiped out. Quote Larry 1959 B61 Liv'n Large...................... Charter member of the "MACK PACK" Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/6219-which-oil/#findComment-25807 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Posted December 3, 2008 Author Share Posted December 3, 2008 Good to hear from you Larry. I believe in running what the person before me ran if possible. I bought a gallon of Rotella SAE 30 back in Sept. but have not used it. I would think this engine is gummed up also because, it is running cold or rather luke warm by touching the radiator hoses and radiator when its running. The temp gauge is not registering. I've also thought about using the Marvel Mystery Oil, say 2 gallons along with SAE 30 and help do a gradual clean inside. mike Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/6219-which-oil/#findComment-25831 Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris142 Posted December 3, 2008 Share Posted December 3, 2008 I wonder about the need of ZDDP. My '67 F100 pickup runs Valvoline 10w40 in it and it's got 150K miles on it. Pretty sure they've removed it from all the base oils,They did not totally remove ZDDP from any oils. They lowered it from around 1300ppm to 800 or so. There is still some in the oil and they have added more Moly and another anti wear agent that I can't remember the name of at the moment. Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/6219-which-oil/#findComment-25833 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Freightrain Posted December 3, 2008 Share Posted December 3, 2008 I'm not too big on running "cleaner" thru an engine, at least not in great quantities. Seems it causes more issues then fixes sometimes.The history on my truck is varied as it either sat and idled for hours on end, or got the nuts run off it as it pulled back a 100K lb trailer from a wreck(that was it's job). I've had the valve covers off and seems pretty clean inside overall, though I know the valve guides are VERY, very worn(la, la, la....I don't want to know that...la, la, la..........). The thicker the better is probably good to help tighten things up some, but mine pulls 55psi running down the road so I don't think it's too terrible down below. I know the truck got some maintenance, but I think it had been years since it's last filter change when I bought it. It got so little use, they just didn't bother with it. The fuel filter cansister was rotted thru, but it had so much sediment in it that it didnt leak til I tried cleaning it out.Does yours have shutters? Do they work? Bob tailing around in summer it's hard to get mine very warm, though it does get up to 140-150 deg if really hot out. If it just sits and runs....it won't get warm. Only if I really work it(pulling trailer up alot of hills) does it ever get up to 160+ deg.Typical diesel, it only likes a load. That's why I "beat mine to death" , not actually, but run it hard whenever I have it out. I drive it on the govenor all day down the highway. Quote Larry 1959 B61 Liv'n Large...................... Charter member of the "MACK PACK" Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/6219-which-oil/#findComment-25876 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Posted December 3, 2008 Author Share Posted December 3, 2008 Larry,I had better watch what I say because the old truck might be listening. But a newer temp gauge had been installed, I noticed. The shutters are not working. The person before me disconnected the pin. I'll need to get my girl friend to start it so I can watch the arm movement. I don't know if this engine uses a thermastat. If so, can I purchase one from my local Mack Dealer? ( Last Resort ) If I get any deeper with the subject i'll have to start calling you on the phone to explain the rest. I do not have a good enough manual yet, i'm still checking ebay on a regular basis. I purchased a while back a E6/ 672 engine manual.mike Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/6219-which-oil/#findComment-25887 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Freightrain Posted December 3, 2008 Share Posted December 3, 2008 Start the truck and wait for air pressure to build. Once you get some, it should then actuate the air cylinder to close the shutters as soon as it has enough air to overcome resistance. But, since you're isn't hooked up, it should work pretty quick. It picks air off the passenger side of firewall, then to shutterstat then air cylinder.When it's cold, you should have air to cylinder, unscrew line and see if you do. That air cylinder is easy to get apart, as I tore into mine to clean the sludge out of it. Four small threaded rods hold it together(if I recall?). Just a simple piston with leather seal.I'll PM you. Quote Larry 1959 B61 Liv'n Large...................... Charter member of the "MACK PACK" Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/6219-which-oil/#findComment-25901 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Posted December 3, 2008 Share Posted December 3, 2008 Hmmmm, more than one moving part so I'm lost.The shutters should start to close at about 30psi in the tank. By 40psi, all four sets of mine are closed.Rob Quote Plodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke. Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/6219-which-oil/#findComment-25903 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Posted December 3, 2008 Author Share Posted December 3, 2008 Thanks Larry, I'll try that. Also if shutterstat is bad, can it be salvaged or can it be bought?mike Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/6219-which-oil/#findComment-25904 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Freightrain Posted December 3, 2008 Share Posted December 3, 2008 I've had the cap off mine(2 small screws?). I'm thinking that is only the air valve portion. Not sure, but maybe Barry has a possible part number to locate one?Likely yours is stuck and keeps them closed, and that is why he disconnected it? Maybe the air valve portion is just corroded and might be able to get it apart and clean it? Worth poking around if you find it don't work anyway.Time to just start tracing things. Make sure you have air to it, get shutters closing and see if you can get some heat built up and see if the shutters open. Heck, close the shutters and see if you can get the temp gage to even show anything. Keep feeling the hoses and see if they get warm. Quote Larry 1959 B61 Liv'n Large...................... Charter member of the "MACK PACK" Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/6219-which-oil/#findComment-25907 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Posted December 3, 2008 Author Share Posted December 3, 2008 The hoses get warm. The antifreeze is good to plus 10 degrees. I have a new 7 lb. radiator cap. This past weekend I started it and let run for a 15 minutes or so. Asked my girl friend to search for a piece of plywood to put in front of the radiator, and she did. The temp never rose on the gauge. Back when I brought it home from the shop, it did get up to about 140 degrees. I have not taken the top cap off the thermastat hosing to see if it has one or not. I hope it does.mike Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/6219-which-oil/#findComment-25908 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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