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Joe and I have been going back and forth for the future, I think because he has a series 60 he wants to offload LOL 

As long as it runs or can be fixed, I would prefer to leave it...... What is it Mack 350?  I have been doing some research and finding they are pretty good motors but the oil pump does not live as as long as the engine does. Will replace that but it has 60-90LB of oil pressure when running so I think it is solid. 

Still trying to figure out the electrical in the cab. Someone has taken all the bulbs out of the lights so I have no doubt it has a bas short somewhere. Is there a cutoff switch or what is that soleniod below the main breaker tied to? What does it even do? I might start chasing wires this afternoon but I really want to drive it a moment first and make sure it has all the gears. So some electical and tires. 

Thanks All 

 

Edited by Countrylife

Looking at your pics , I can tell you that it is not a 350 4 valve. It may? be a 350 2 Valve . But I thought they had 2 oil filters plus the rotor . You just have the 2 oil filters .

If you look behind the injection pump ,under the exhaust , there should be an id plate. 

Regardless, that motor comes in different hp , all are VERY reliable .  

Can't wait to see, hear  it running :twothumbsup:

Keith 

It came to life today and smoked out the neighborhood. Once it started picking up enough cylinders to spin the turbo it sounded pretty good. I will try to get the video up tonight but I was not expecting it to start this morning. It just kinda.....Did 

I am still fighting this cab electrical thing. Curious if anyone knows where to find a parts book for the tractor or will Mack still have it. I am going to test this Solenoid if the kids cooperate this afternoon. 

 

  • Like 1

I was looking for the manuals online and I can only find a giant set of 4 dooks for this truck, I did find a place called Candtruck.com that has several in various states so they are looking for some of the grill parts and tool box doors for me. 

Does anyone know if the high low shifter is the standard eaton fuller? I can not seem to track down much info or will Mack be able to help me? 

This is the shifter I found and it looks correct https://www.ebay.com/itm/Hi-Low-Range-Valve-Eaton-Fuller-Old-Style-Shift-Knob-A3546/151799542752

I do not want to bug you guys and I am appreciative of all the help, If there are resources I should be utilizing please let me know as I am not seeing much for info. 

Thanks

Edited by Countrylife
On 5/14/2020 at 4:52 PM, Ditchdiggerjcf said:

Do NOT just wail on the end of that pin with a hammer. You will either break the mount or mushroom the head and it will never come out. Put some heat on it and some vise grips on the big and and try to spin it to break it loose.

Not that easy deal. MH plunger is 4 or 5 times longer than one in a R-model. I had to remove all the top part off the threadle valve and play with it in vise to get the plunger free. Worth to note my parts looked better than in this truck.

Никогда не бывает слишком много грузовиков! leversole 11.2012

2 hours ago, General Ike said:

I already saw the video on U Tube... IT LIVES!!!!

I'm insta famous with 17 followers, LOL  glad someone gets a ki9k out of it. It was cool to hear it pick up enough jugs to start to spin the turbo though. I have never heard a tractor do that. 

 

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2 hours ago, General Ike said:

I already saw the video on U Tube... IT LIVES!!!!

I'm insta famous with 17 followers, LOL  glad someone gets a ki9k out of it. It was cool to hear it pick up enough jugs to start to spin the turbo though. I have never heard a tractor do that. 

L20200515_133522.jpg.crdownload

 

 

 

20200515_133522.jpg

The engine looks like 2V E6-350 which was installed in MH's before 1985. It must have a chassis mounted intercooler in front of the main radiator. Very reliable engine and the most of parts are easy to fing and cost reasonable.

The solenoid looks like a main shut off relay. R-model has similar part installed under the dash. It gets on when you turn the ignition key and supplys power to instrumet panel gauges and alternator. Probably to other circuits either. Some outside lights (or all?) and engine starter are supplied straight passing the relay. I didn't look for the relay in MH since didn't have a trouble but my R-model has it inoperational from time to time. Usually after the truck is parked for too long. Actually it gets stuck and you have to turn the key multiple times or slightly hit the relay body. Once I bought the truck the previous owner hitted it every time he switched the ignition. I took the solenoid apart, cleaned and greased it and it turned out troublefree. But in a few years it started remembering me his existance.

  • Like 1

Никогда не бывает слишком много грузовиков! leversole 11.2012

On 5/12/2020 at 5:21 PM, Countrylife said:

Right now, I am not sure exactly what the plan is. I am documenting it on Youtube for fun but it will for sure go back to work on the Farm at some Point. I ahve a 40 foot flatbed that is goin to go with it. 

Here is the video and I know I am not doing a few things right but this is a new one for me so its all for Fun. We are sorta locked down over here.  

 

What does your farm consist of, you raise crops? Going to haul crops?

On 5/13/2020 at 12:04 PM, Mack Technician said:

Seattle is the land of milk and honey for salt-free, restorable vehicles. Sure most sleeper trucks wander into the salt belt, but some don't. Good luck on your project!

Thanks, 

I have been meaning to commont on this, We have a farm in Wico but buy everything out here. The Salt makes most things useless bak there. By the time you replace all the fittings and clamps that are rotting away, you discover frames that are disintegrating and body mounts that are gone etc. 

It's just not worth it VS finding something here or in Cali/TX away from the ocean and moving it. 

2 minutes ago, 1965 said:

Dang, you must be from the udder side, where they drive on the wrong side because that tractor is backwards.  

Ha ha

Depends on the day, some days i go this way but.... 

Some days I go da' otha 

Forward for stumps and backwards for tillage :)

 

 

On 5/15/2020 at 3:30 PM, Vladislav said:

Not that easy deal. MH plunger is 4 or 5 times longer than one in a R-model. I had to remove all the top part off the threadle valve and play with it in vise to get the plunger free. Worth to note my parts looked better than in this truck.

Assuming it is the plunger. The shaft freezes in mine.

It is actually a Versatile 256 in Ford livery. the PO had all blue so he painted this one to match. 

I got the pedal off today but it took a saws-all and 3 hrs to get that pin out. It was completely frozen, I just started pouring lube on the piston.  The Swamp mats in the photo actually came from the utility company, they used them run power line roads but the Army Corps of Engineers made them take them out so I got a boatload. 

I will get some interior pics up today. I got so pissed off working on the pedal, I needed to step away for a bit. 

Not sure how I am going to get the plunger to come out. I can actually tap it in so I think I can coax it out. 

 

4 hours ago, alex g said:

Be careful with plunger not sure how far you have it apart but on R model there are bolts to hold pedal mount to floor and other bolts to hold valve to base

I have the pedal off at this point, I am going to clean up the area more and soak it. I can get it to tap in a little but not out so I am thinking of cleaning the exposed parts with steel wool and maybe going in then out but IDK 

I am all open to ideas!! 

Here is the promised interior picks before cleaning which is happening after the kids go to bed because I can not stand it anymore 

 

 

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