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Has anyone figured out a way to get the pump timed on an electronic E7 without buying that expensive little box with the 2 lights on it?

Another problem, I can't even find a static timing figure to set the engine to if I had the timing box??? I looked at the flywheel today to see if it was marked but only see a couple nicks on the edge around 32 and 38 degrees? That's gotta be just some random digs by something that went around the bell housing I'm thinking.

Thoughts?

Sonny and Bart

Has anyone figured out a way to get the pump timed on an electronic E7 without buying that expensive little box with the 2 lights on it?

Another problem, I can't even find a static timing figure to set the engine to if I had the timing box??? I looked at the flywheel today to see if it was marked but only see a couple nicks on the edge around 32 and 38 degrees? That's gotta be just some random digs by something that went around the bell housing I'm thinking.

Thoughts?

Not be cruel but you need to get a manual because if you dont know the timing then i know alot of other things you need to know about the Vmac. Look at the bottom of the flywheel housing for the timing marks. Tyhe vmac pump is timed on # 6 cyl and another way to time which is crude but will work is to go to cummins and get a timing indictator for a 5.9 diesel 12 valve with a p pump. It is a lttle plastic plug that will go inside of the governor housing were you timing sensor is and it has a slot that will go over the timing tang when pump is in time and the plastic plug will fit over the tang holding the tang in the middle of the opening. Then install timing gear on fron and start and watch for a timing code. If you dont have a active timing code then you are in time. If you do then stop and move the timing alittle one way and try. But with out the tools and willing to buy the equipment you are only guessing. I have a prolink that i can read codes and monitor with and if you dont have that you dont know if your timing is slow or fast if you have a timing code. You should watch ebay and go into tools for mack and some time you can buy tools that a man needs to check trhis stuff and some times it goes cheep because some guys dont know what it is for and just dont bid on it. good luck glenn

glenn akers

Has anyone figured out a way to get the pump timed on an electronic E7 without buying that expensive little box with the 2 lights on it?

Another problem, I can't even find a static timing figure to set the engine to if I had the timing box??? I looked at the flywheel today to see if it was marked but only see a couple nicks on the edge around 32 and 38 degrees? That's gotta be just some random digs by something that went around the bell housing I'm thinking.

Thoughts?

You can get it close by putting the engine on its static timing mark somwhere between 6 - 10 deg(what ever it says on the valve cover)peer into the hole were the timing tool fits and center the tone wheel tab in the hole with the fuel pump gear loose on th slots turn the pump cam till the tab is centered in the hole tighten the bolts .Be sure your marks are lined up on the fly wheel.

Also As Glen stated Some Pumps were timed on six!To identify the timed cylinder look for an allen head plug on the pump body on 1 or six if the plug is on 1 its timed to 1 if its on 6 its timed to six!

Note that this is a get by not somthing to go to the bank with just a get by!

Actually I have a manual, but it doesn't have any timing figures in it. We are switching the pump and electronics from a 95 to a 92 engine. Naturally the valve cover plate is gone and there is no figure stamped on the other engine as it was a Mack rebuild in 96 and they didn't fill in very many of the blanks.

The truck owner talked to the guys he got the engine from. They said to finish the truck with the exception of the timing and valve settings and he will send a guy out to make sure it's right before we fire it. I'm sure I could've figure it out if I had a degree to set it to, but if they want to send their guy out that's OK.

I had the back off the pump today to replace the wiring connector so I saw the pointer in there for the timing. Looks pretty straight forward to me. ;)

Thanks for the tips guys.

Edited by Sonnysplace

Sonny and Bart

We found an A-B box at our local pump shop! They even UPS'd it to us today to use. Nice guys! Now if I someone had thought to put the static timing mark on the valve cover my worries would be over. I did find a few timing settings in the VMAC manual, but only up to 92. They ranged all over from 5 to 11 degrees. The truck owner says he has a twin truck to this one and he'll check the cover on it, so we'll see.

I got all the parts swapped between the engines so next week we'll bring the truck back and see about getting it stuffed back in. I forgot my camera or I'd have snapped a couple pics of it.

Sonny and Bart

We found an A-B box at our local pump shop! They even UPS'd it to us today to use. Nice guys! Now if I someone had thought to put the static timing mark on the valve cover my worries would be over. I did find a few timing settings in the VMAC manual, but only up to 92. They ranged all over from 5 to 11 degrees. The truck owner says he has a twin truck to this one and he'll check the cover on it, so we'll see.

I got all the parts swapped between the engines so next week we'll bring the truck back and see about getting it stuffed back in. I forgot my camera or I'd have snapped a couple pics of it.

What horse power is the engine?

8 degrees would be a good starting point!

I don't really know what HP it is supposed to be. Not like they advertised it on there anywhere. I think the owner said it's a 400? As you can tell, this is the newest Mack we've had in the shop. We usually see older models in the Macks around here, but I guess times are changing. The old endt stuff is all approaching antique status. :)

We're just starting to see C-15 Cats instead of 3406's too. ;)

Sonny and Bart

I finally heard back from the owner. The twin truck is stamped 6 degrees, so I'll go with that. They are supposed to be 400s.

There is an allen plug on the side of the pump under the number 1 barrel, so that means to time it number 1? The VMAC book talks like they are all timed on #6. The book does stop at 92 though...

Sonny and Bart

I finally heard back from the owner. The twin truck is stamped 6 degrees, so I'll go with that. They are supposed to be 400s.

There is an allen plug on the side of the pump under the number 1 barrel, so that means to time it number 1? The VMAC book talks like they are all timed on #6. The book does stop at 92 though...

You are right . The lttle plug tells the story. glenn

glenn akers

You are right . The lttle plug tells the story. glenn

the very first engines came out like that then changed back to one!If in doubt the plug tells the story as Glenn statedThe first engines also came with a Elab valve or fuel shut off valve which was also deleted after a bit!Guess they wanted to make sure the epump concept was going to work before trusting it with out the valve.

Adentified by a wire heading to a small valve at the inlet.

Thanks guys! I have it on 6 degrees BTDC on number one and both lights on, just have to get the gear put in and see how close I can get it.

Was there originally a pointer in that little hole in the bellhousing? I found a #2 phillips fits right in there, just curious.

Edited by Sonnysplace

Sonny and Bart

Thanks guys! I have it on 6 degrees BTDC on number one and both lights on, just have to get the gear put in and see how close I can get it.

Was there originally a pointer in that little hole in the bellhousing? I found a #2 phillips fits right in there, just curious.

Yup just center it the best you can the screw will be close enough!The degree spec is + / - 1 degree

It fought hard, but after finding a bad battery in the left side box we finally got it spinning over good enough. Then we had issues with the valves not sealing very good. I could hear it hissing out the intake. We started hosing the intake down with WD-40 and finally got compression on one cyl. It started letting out one little knock every time it would make a revolution. We finally gave up on it and I went home and Dad went up and ate dinner. He called a few minutes ago and said it fired up on 3 cyls and after about 10 seconds of missing it smoothed out. He says it sounds pretty good now, has good throttle response, and filled the whole shop with smoke! :chili:

Sonny and Bart

It fought hard, but after finding a bad battery in the left side box we finally got it spinning over good enough. Then we had issues with the valves not sealing very good. I could hear it hissing out the intake. We started hosing the intake down with WD-40 and finally got compression on one cyl. It started letting out one little knock every time it would make a revolution. We finally gave up on it and I went home and Dad went up and ate dinner. He called a few minutes ago and said it fired up on 3 cyls and after about 10 seconds of missing it smoothed out. He says it sounds pretty good now, has good throttle response, and filled the whole shop with smoke! :chili:

Well as long as its a runner thats all a guy can ask.Paint it gray now it will really haul a$$. :blink:

Good job!

Well, the Mack left today. I told the driver about you guys and the gray paint. He says, "funny, I told my boss how all the engines I've blown up over the years were all painted the wrong colors".... :P

Didn't help the cam in this truck, but maybe he meant in the past. ;)

Sonny and Bart

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