Donald smith Posted January 30, 2021 Share Posted January 30, 2021 got a 02 etech engine blows oil out road draft tube when driving cv model 400 engi tested compression all are 450 + higher any one know comp. spec ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fjh Posted January 30, 2021 Share Posted January 30, 2021 around 500 I beleive ! 450 is a little low But! Turbo can cause this ! Exhaust goes by the shaft seals under high boost!we built a tool to cap both ends the inlet air and exhaust side and aplly 40 psi shop air to it, to find this very issue Haven't seen it happen for quite some time 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Donald smith Posted January 30, 2021 Author Share Posted January 30, 2021 the turbo was replaced because it was leaking oil in ex. pipe i think but still oil comes out road draft tube Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Donald smith Posted January 30, 2021 Author Share Posted January 30, 2021 i was thinking i have internal fuel leak lie maybe from eups but doesnt seem to be making oil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fjh Posted January 30, 2021 Share Posted January 30, 2021 (edited) 28 minutes ago, Donald smith said: the turbo was replaced because it was leaking oil in ex. pipe i think but still oil comes out road draft tube dosent mean the turbo aint faulty! while running at idle does it have alot of bloby with the the oil filler lid off? Edited January 30, 2021 by fjh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted January 30, 2021 Share Posted January 30, 2021 Turbo is possible, operable compression is 350-500 PSI. Just curious.... Is the breather filter clogged and then "Puking" oil when pressure builds? If you pull the dipstick while running, is it blowing oil out, or excessive pressure? How about the air compressor? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Donald smith Posted January 30, 2021 Author Share Posted January 30, 2021 it was sent to another shop they replaced air compressor but still oil comes out when running engine /driving hard is it possable to have eups leak Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted January 30, 2021 Share Posted January 30, 2021 I cant think of how the EUP's could cause this, especially without raising the oil level. How much oil are you losing? and how quickly does it leave? jojo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Donald smith Posted January 30, 2021 Author Share Posted January 30, 2021 we had another aset engine leaing fuel into crankcase from fuel plug behind front cover Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Donald smith Posted January 30, 2021 Author Share Posted January 30, 2021 i think after a short drive it begins to leak out + sprays down chassis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted January 30, 2021 Share Posted January 30, 2021 I have to think about this for a bit.... You have good compression on all 6, the oil level is not rising, it does it when working it hard, the compressor is new, the turbo is new, Yep. I need to think on it.. jojo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrgumby Posted January 30, 2021 Share Posted January 30, 2021 How many hours on it. I had one once with about 20 thousand hours had a couple worn exhaust guides had blow by under load something else to check Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vmac3 Posted January 30, 2021 Share Posted January 30, 2021 I have been pondering about this as well. If the turbo and compressor is new, no loss of engine power is noticed then one would think that it is not the engine at fault. Has the engine oil dip stick been replaced? The oil level should be 32L or 8.5 gallons. What kind of vocation is this vehicle? There was a service bulletin that corrected this issue. If this vehicle is a cement mixer or a vehicle that is managing steep grades then it is possible that the engine oil can spill out the crankcase breather. Mack has a service bulletin that relocated the breather for these applications. Take a read and see if this fits your vehicle. V sb214024.pdf 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Donald smith Posted January 31, 2021 Author Share Posted January 31, 2021 this truck is a roll off cv model i believe dip stick is original i did leak down tests of cylinders all hold 100 psi for about 20 seconds or so then drop off it doesnt blue smoke i was thinking there are plugs behind cam gear maybe one is loose ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vmac3 Posted January 31, 2021 Share Posted January 31, 2021 There is a fuel gallery plug behind the timing cover, I believe it's a 1/4". I was thinking it may be this. The cam gear may whip the fuel and oil out the breather. It's worth a check. Once you remove the timing cover, apply the fuel primer and see if it leaks out. The plug is probably lòose. Remove the plug and reseal it with teflon tape. I think all ideas have been exhausted. Let us know what you decide to do. V 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fjh Posted January 31, 2021 Share Posted January 31, 2021 (edited) 1 hour ago, Vmac3 said: There is a fuel gallery plug behind the timing cover, I believe it's a 1/4". I was thinking it may be this. The cam gear may whip the fuel and oil out the breather. It's worth a check. Once you remove the timing cover, apply the fuel primer and see if it leaks out. The plug is probably lòose. Remove the plug and reseal it with teflon tape. I think all ideas have been exhausted. Let us know what you decide to do. V My opinion! We"ve Been told ! The fuel level is staying consistent? oil sample ? I have seen the turbos bad from the get go! Chase The facts Don't throw anymore parts till ya got some facts get an oil sample! If ya got the where with all Build some caps for the turbo and pressure it up with shop air ! two peices of flat 3/8 plate two pieces of 3/8 ready rod and some old mudflap and You can make the tool in under an hour! with this you can check Everything you need ! even Valve guides! remove the drain tube from the turbo put 40 regulated shop air psi to it This will test EVERY nook and cranny on the unit for leaks you may also have to cap the compressor outlet on the thing if its plumbed direct to the compressor! Just sayin! Edited January 31, 2021 by fjh 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted January 31, 2021 Share Posted January 31, 2021 So true "F".. I've done something similar, had the valve covers off, barred the engine over (with a helper) and watched for air leaks and bubbles in the oil around the valves.. yes, stop throwing parts at it and keep testing.. jojo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fjh Posted January 31, 2021 Share Posted January 31, 2021 We Call it parts Canoning At our place! And is A last resort if you have exhausted your other resources! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted January 31, 2021 Share Posted January 31, 2021 I have also heard, "Firing the parts cannon at it" Too funny.... I like to know what part made the repair and why... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fjh Posted January 31, 2021 Share Posted January 31, 2021 (edited) In the case of these new emission units sometimes you have no choice Nox sensors is an example Cheap Shit ! Hit and miss ! If eveything up stream checks out then Throw the TAIWAN part At it No Choice! We have some guys here at my shop that have good senses ! ME NOT included in this Group ! But have seen what they do And when they do it Most of This shit is just Magic To me! DON"T like working on it!Hurts My Brain! 🙄 Edited January 31, 2021 by fjh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vmac3 Posted January 31, 2021 Share Posted January 31, 2021 Met too. This is a good problem to work on. It would be interesting to know what the root cause is. V Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted January 31, 2021 Share Posted January 31, 2021 Just curious, "F"??? When they fix it, do they know how and why? Because when I was in the Dealership, I saw that.. Even as A customer, I could'nt get a good explanation on how it was fixed. Of course the MIL light would come back on a short time later.. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fjh Posted January 31, 2021 Share Posted January 31, 2021 Usually I here the resolution ! Like I said they usually work thru the possible up steam causes first the DAM programing up grades/ egr flow fuel doser crap /def doser issues Crystal build up ect, often caused by cracked ash cans and air leaks within that sector To rule out the obvious and , Then Canon the nox sensors, only way to be sure, AND MACK DON"T TELL YOU F all How you've fix it if the last thing you do is parts canon! If it fixes it you can attribute it to overpriced Dollar store Parts! Really ,No different than what we've been talking about with this possible blow by ,oil slobber issue,! fred Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted January 31, 2021 Share Posted January 31, 2021 Got it.. Same crap here too... jojo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vmac3 Posted January 31, 2021 Share Posted January 31, 2021 Hey F do you just replace one NOX sensor or both? We replaced both. The problem is that there is no way to test these, other than the obvious (power ground and data lines). V Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.