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Rods & mains bearings


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You can drop the oil pump and the main at No.7 to check the health of the bearing and oil pump. It's a "Job". you have a large stiffing tray and oil pick/up tubing with orings to replace, and a boatload of bolts to remove.. You can also cut open the oil filters to check for metal flakes but thats still not going to pinpoint where the metal came from..  So my guess Is to weigh the reasons, and decide... The lower end Is a quaility lower end, and the work to do a good bearing job is much higher than an E-7/E-Tech..... I expect more comments from our Canadian friends on this one, as they are still working on this series of engine today.  OK "V" and "F".. You're next.. :) Jojo

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Well as with the bottom end on the grey engine they are pretty tough if you have looked after the oil and the clutch adjustment ! I would leave it alone we have a fair few high milers here and any we have had apart usually for other reasons looked fine bearing Wise! As Joe stated its not a slam dunk to pull the pan and look like a gray engine! AS 58 said oil analysis is a good cheap check!

 

Just my opinion!

Edited by fjh
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On 3/9/2021 at 7:16 AM, Joey Mack said:

You can drop the oil pump and the main at No.7 to check the health of the bearing and oil pump. It's a "Job". you have a large stiffing tray and oil pick/up tubing with orings to replace, and a boatload of bolts to remove.. You can also cut open the oil filters to check for metal flakes but thats still not going to pinpoint where the metal came from..  So my guess Is to weigh the reasons, and decide... The lower end Is a quaility lower end, and the work to do a good bearing job is much higher than an E-7/E-Tech..... I expect more comments from our Canadian friends on this one, as they are still working on this series of engine today.  OK "V" and "F".. You're next.. :) Jojo

I guess it’s more peace of mind for me 

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And that alone is reason enough....   Just do it right because there is no room for short cuts on this engine, any engine really, but this engine is a well designed piece of engineering and if you are going to do it.... do it right.... follow all torque procedures, replace the bolts as required, get the correct orings and so forth.. the oil pump does have a fits and limits for reuse, you may be surprised at what will pass inspection related to scratches and the little pitting that seems to happen to them..  I hope that "F: and "V" add to what I just said..  jojo

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Keep in mind... the connecting rods are "Fractured".....  Be deliberate on how you handle them,  check fitment accuracy upon reassembly.... Nothing to fear, just pay attention to the joint.. jojo

Edited by Joey Mack
too much info
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19 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

Keep in mind... the connecting rods are "Fractured".....  Be deliberate on how you handle them,  check fitment accuracy upon reassembly.... Nothing to fear, just pay attention to the joint.. jojo

Fractured rod joints are awesome.  Perfect fit and incredible stability.

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"Eagles may soar, but weasels don't get sucked into jet engines."

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Late in posting in this thread, but I have never done a bearing roll on a MP series engine. In fact I stopped doing them during the ASET days. Engine oil technology has come a long way. Also these new engines rarely ever have issues in the rotating assembly. Something causes the rotating assembly to fail, double idler gear and the aluminum shaving associated with it, blown turbo, fuel dilution and the likes. As long as the maintenance was always up to snuff then no need. Like Joey and F said, its a pain in the ass to get to the rods, mains and the oil pump. If you plan in doing this job, please be extra cautious because the stiffening plate is extremely sharp on one side and it will slice your hands like a hot knife through butter. Best tot take an oil sample and see what the lab finds. 

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