H Model Restoration

[Dirtymilkman]

1 hour ago, mrsmackpaul said:

No idea why, Im sure plenty of people smarter than me can answer that

It might be only a Australian thing and not be a issue at all, I  just figured if it was going to be a issue in the future at rego time it's pretty quick and simple to fix it now 

 

Paul 

Possibly a corrosion reason? 

[mowerman]

Perhaps rust build up

[Brocky]

Paul, I DO NOT think he will have a problem with rego as our rules are not a strict as yours, especially for antique / historical plates. The States do not have the "engineer" certification rule after every little change that you do..

[Hayseed]

14 hours ago, h67st said:

In Australia the angles have sit proud of the flange so there is 1/8 gap between the plate and the chassis rail flange

Yep, there has to be a Minimum 5mm Gap between the top flange & the Base plate..

Also those Angles wouldn't comply down here either.. they have to be longer than the Chassis rails are apart..

14 hours ago, h67st said:

So they don't want the fifth wheel sitting directly on the frame rail? I wonder why that is

Rust is one reason , but the main one is on our Rough terrain they're touching & the chassis flex will cause rubbing that may cause a fatigue Crack in the Top Flange of the Rail..

[mechohaulic]

1 hour ago, Hayseed said:

Yep, there has to be a Minimum 5mm Gap between the top flange & the Base plate..

Also those Angles wouldn't comply down here either.. they have to be longer than the Chassis rails are apart..

Rust is one reason , but the main one is on our Rough terrain they're touching & the chassis flex will cause rubbing that may cause a fatigue Crack in the Top Flange of the Rail..

back in the day; 5th wheels were mounted with only long u-bolts ; way too much movement. most all wheels mounted later were bolted to their own  plates which were bolted to angle iron bolted through the frame rails not the frame flange . as stated earlier, with out the main frame plate  on the 5th wheel too much flex would be on the chassis. of the 50-60 + 5th wheels i mounted while at Mack none were direct mount to the frame. all were either welded to angle iron   bolted to the frame (sliders) or bolted to the iron that was bolted to frame (fixed).

[Hayseed]

8 minutes ago, mechohaulic said:

back in the day; 5th wheels were mounted with only long u-bolts ;

Same Here Too... i think It was mid/late 80's when  they banned U-Bolt fixing of Turntables here..

9 minutes ago, mechohaulic said:

all wheels mounted later were bolted to their own  plates which were bolted to angle iron bolted through the frame rails not the frame flange

^^^^^ This is the way the  law has required since the Mid/late 80's

 

Pages 12-15 here explains It... 

 

 https://www.nhvr.gov.au/files/201901-0643-vsb6-section-p-tow-couplings.pdf

[1961H67]

My 51 LJ had wood between the frame and plate, I took the old U bolts and had new ones made. The wood I put back  I cut from decking material. I’m sure if you used it every day the bolts would have to be retighten every now and then. 

[mrsmackpaul]

I wanna make it clear that I wasn't trying knock annything just trying to save someone future head ache 

Anyways I'll hop back in my box now  😀

All is good, carry on 

 

Paul 

[h67st]

11 hours ago, mechohaulic said:

back in the day; 5th wheels were mounted with only long u-bolts ; way too much movement. most all wheels mounted later were bolted to their own  plates which were bolted to angle iron bolted through the frame rails not the frame flange . as stated earlier, with out the main frame plate  on the 5th wheel too much flex would be on the chassis. of the 50-60 + 5th wheels i mounted while at Mack none were direct mount to the frame. all were either welded to angle iron   bolted to the frame (sliders) or bolted to the iron that was bolted to frame (fixed).

I've seen a bunch of trucks with u-bolt mounting that had blocks of steel welded to the frame rail flange to keep the thing from moving back and forth. Of course, they shouldn't be welding on that flange.

[mechohaulic]

welding on the flange would ultimately crack the flange. many of the u-bolt set ups had flat stock welded to the 5th wheel and ran along top of frame having other end welded to rear of frame rail location of less stress . another thought, when days of u-bolt mounting took place, trucks weren't (on a regular basis) carrying 100 K payloads. still find myself totally amazed  looking at old pictures of loadbeds hauling huge construction equipment using chain drive tractors. air brakes ???😄 no. had friend tell me of him loading old cable excavator on flat bed ; when he started up rear of trailer the tractor lifted off the ground and away the whole unit went, tractor was the only source of brakes (hand brake)..LOL  

[mrsmackpaul]

The biggest problem with U bolts I believe was to keep things secure they are done tight 

The tighter the U bolt is done up the more it deforms the chassis and bends the flanges in making the whole show weaker 

To get around this issue people had nice cut bits of wood that fitted really neat in the chassis to stop the fangles getting squashed

These bits of wood had to be hammered in as they were a very neat fit

The bits of wood also had a groove in them that the U bolt fitted neatly in

This stopped the wood coming out and the flanges getting squashed 

In the end I think it was just easier and cheaper to bolt angle iron on and be done with it

 

Paul

[h67st]

I used my steam cleaner to blast the paint off some of the interior panels today, worked great. The factory paint mostly stayed so I'll sand it and paint over it.

[1961H67]

I’m sure they will turn out nice, you’re moving along  , if I can spend a hour a week on mine It makes me feel better about it , after letting it set 30 years. 

 

[mowerman]

Ha ha that’s where I am now finally moving the DM into the garage today mainly To make room for barbecue guests  cars I’m tempted to pull out the hand grinder and start on the nose just to tell everyone I’m working on it finally  … bob

[mowerman]

But I really don’t want to start anything on it that I can’t finish mainly why I haven’t touched it yet or moved it in the garage time no time I’m sure most of us have the same issue seems like plenty of time for work and the honeydews… Bob 

[mechohaulic]

seems there 's more progress on the real trucks   of these forums then i can put into the 1/25 scale projects i  have on hold. don't know where the time/ days are going. now i have a '84 john deere apart  trying to find clutch parts; grass is still growing; etc and the list gets longer daily.

[h67st]

Well, I finally got all the parts for the front end cleaned, repaired, bought, painted, made, etc. I have to say a big thank you to John Chalmers, he sold me the Mack logo, H67 logo, and the parking lights.

[mowerman]

Excellent bud but things sure looking good… Bob

[1961H67]

That front end is popping now,, It’s getting a finished look! Great Detail. 

[mrsmackpaul]

Thats looking really good to my untrained eye 

Really starting look smart now 

 

Paul

[Brocky]

Looking Great!!!!! I am awaiting it showings so I can see its in person..

[mattb73lt]

Excellent work!! Looks beautiful.

[Freightrain]

Looks fantastic!

[Vladislav]

Looks great!

That's definitely one of those moments we spend months of work to enjoy for a few minutes. Ok, you can pull it in time for a quoter an hour. Or for a few hours, days or weeks 

[h67st]

Today I put the defroster hoses on, found them at https://www.dennis-carpenter.com/ . One thing for sure...it was a lot easier to stand on my head under the dash of a truck when I was 25 years old. The hose is Thermoid brand, that's a name I haven't seen for a while.