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Got hot and shut down so replaced the old two piece with a alloy one piece reservoir, flushed radiator and block, very clean. Has new water pump and hoses. No leakages externally or internally that I can see. Nothing in water, manifold and exhaust clean, nothing in air tanks only drops of cold clean condensation. Horton type fan operating at correct temps. When static operating you bring it up to temp range even at 1600 rpm and blip the throttle it won’t push coolant until you go down the road and come back then when you stop it pushes also when you then touch the throttle it also pushes. I haven’t looked at compressor but thought i would join the two hoses to complete the circuit and run it. Any other thoughts?

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run time on an un-cooled compressor is short, before damage happens, however, youre post tells me that you have some good knowledge, and you will be cautious doing this test....  looking forward for the cure being posted.... jojo

19 hours ago, Vmac3 said:

God idea. Jump the compressor to rule it out. May also be the egr cooler that is leaking. Remove the pipe front the cooler outlet and see if there is coolant. 

Let us know what you find.

V

No EGR on the ETECs

8 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

run time on an un-cooled compressor is short, before damage happens, however, youre post tells me that you have some good knowledge, and you will be cautious doing this test....  looking forward for the cure being posted.... jojo

By passed with no probs running bobtail and it did not get over 80 or fluctuate but as soon as I put two 36 ft trailers behind (no load) it started rising and falling and as soon as you pulled up it was pushing though it was only limited but more then a dribble, but didn’t want to heat the compressor to much.

Replaced compressor head and serpentine belt but still pushing when at temp and stopped, so I’ve left it with a quarter of coolant in reservoir and is not pushing anymore. So tomorrow I’ll check level cold then take it for another run and if it’s not pushing I’m happy but the real test will be when the 44 tonne payload is put on.

On 8/27/2021 at 3:44 AM, Elitedownunder said:

No EGR on the ETECs

My apologies.  Is this an Australian build? 

After testing it with lower coolant level and if it still pushes coolant with a heavy load, you may want to check for combustion gases in the coolant. 

V

 

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Ok, so I top the coolant this morning with a couple of litres and drove my b double trailers empty for around an hour an sat on 80 C until you slow down or stop then it pours out the overflow 2 to 3 litres of coolant which had me wondering. So I went and purchased a thermal gun and after running it it showed me radiator at around 85/90 top and bottom the compressor around the same until I came to the thermostat housing and it showing me the front @ 90 the bottom rad hose at 85 and top hose at 50. So I’m thinking I’ve been sold the wrong thermostat. Another thing is which way should the seal face in the housing ? What say you guys? 

Edited by Elitedownunder

SB215025, is a service buliten that may be what you are looking for,,, Make sure that it applies to you, since you are in Australia... Jojo

ok,  I am not familiar with Austrailian Macks. Here in the U.S. a 2005 is an ASET...  Yes, 10 PSI is correct for an E-Tech..  Im sorry I didnt have the answer for you. Good luck.... Jojo

On 8/30/2021 at 2:45 AM, Elitedownunder said:

Ok, so I top the coolant this morning with a couple of litres and drove my b double trailers empty for around an hour an sat on 80 C until you slow down or stop then it pours out the overflow 2 to 3 litres of coolant which had me wondering. So I went and purchased a thermal gun and after running it it showed me radiator at around 85/90 top and bottom the compressor around the same until I came to the thermostat housing and it showing me the front @ 90 the bottom rad hose at 85 and top hose at 50. So I’m thinking I’ve been sold the wrong thermostat. Another thing is which way should the seal face in the housing ? What say you guys? 

The lip of the seal should face towards the engine. 

V

When you replaced the water pump. Did you inspect the housing on the front of the engine for pitting/cavitation?....  This can cause air into the system, which can cause excessive pressure and push coolant..     However, I'm still curious about an issue with compression leaking into the cooling system. "V" has touched on this... jojo

Yes....  I was taught this procedure years ago by a 65 year old grumpy, MF'r....   Take the belt off the engine, by-pass the water lines for the air compressor, pull the top radiator pipe off, remove the thermostat, and put the housing back on, leave the short hose on top of the thermostat housing, fill the cooling system til' the water is at the top of the thermo housung,... which leaves 4-6 inches of hose sticking up off of the thermo housing , which will give room to watch the water perculate, like a coffee pot, pretty quickly if there is a head/gasket issue....you can let it run for 30 minutes or more at idle without overheating it. and just watch for bubbles in the top rad. hose... compression leaks will show up early.. i did chase a series 60 detroit that took a long run time before proving there was a head issue. I diagnosed it, but did not repair it... anyway,  Good luck..... jojo

Edited by Joey Mack
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