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15 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

as far as lifter's.. its just my opinion..  I really dont have a good answer..  I just like steel over ceramic, but I have seen ceramic run for a long time. the one I am currently building is 11 years old and the ceramic lifters did not fail..  truth is, with ceramic lifters, I dont like loading the cam in the block, in chassis.  I would rather have it on a rotating stand so i can tip it upside down..  :) i think using the other VIN is a good idea..  make sure you know what cam key is used. it may be straight but ,,, be sure...  white side out for the 427/460hp.. if its offset..   jojo

I agree I hate doing these in frame too easy to drop a lifter easy to make a mistake ! If you accidently  drop or smack one with a cam lobe is it any good?? The ceramic seemed to solve the etching issue how ever who really knows what the real problem was with the steel they worked well in some engines and not others! know one ever clarified why they were failing! 

17 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

sounds like you are riding on the lifter yoke..  sorry bud..  well, if it gets you by for a while,  keep going..  the cam kits are available from PAI.. $2000.00 + the bushing set is $105.00 with  a thrust washer.  if you havent looked already, just type in the mack engine type and kit you want... the last 2,  I built I got parts from ATL Diesel..   but there are others that compete on price.  I like free shipping..  go with steel lifters.  $100.00 each...  jojo

These parts from ATL are PAI brand?

yes, RED.. I just recieved my second set of kits today.... PAI...  jojo as far as to why the steel lifters failed, what I was told was that the soft brass axle for the roller gets a flat spot, then the roller stops turning and digs into the cam..  I can explain the ones where the 'case hardening' flakes off..  maybe thats from poor maintainance. jojo

23 minutes ago, Joey Mack said:

on the end of your cam shaft will be the Mack number..  My suggestion, is to pull the front cover and look..   jojo

The thing is that I'm trying to get Ami exhaust bump camshaft out and put a cam from an Ac motor that has no exhaust bump.Just not sure which ac cam to use.

OK.. so the one I just built is..... CXN-613/017414.... The cam # is: 454GC4271....  Volvo # 20706395....  jojo (ASET-C)

Edited by Joey Mack

Please excuse my nagging.just want to be sure I'm installing the cam that will work.i know this is a experimental procedure that should make an improvement and that I'm taking a risk ,But last thing I want is to put everything back together and it doesn't work right.I can't spare to be down a truck.im barely handling my work load ..lol.

  • 2 weeks later...

What is the best way to do a valve lash after cam install?how can I tell that # 1 is at TDC compression?and not #6? I was told that It was done by lining the timing marks on crank ,cam , and idler but I don't trust it.i know that all those 3 gears line up in time every 16 revolutions therefore I wonder how it's done.Thanks in advance.

Red

 

Edited by R.E.D

easy breezy....  barr the engine around to 1&6...  then, look at the #2 exh. rocker arm (the front one)... exh. valves are to the front of the cylinders...  it should be 'rocked'  opening the exh. valve.  that means you are up on #1..  if #2 exh. rocker is not rocked, then you are up on #6....  jojo

  • Like 1
6 minutes ago, Joey Mack said:

easy breezy....  barr the engine around to 1&6...  then, look at the #2 exh. rocker arm (the front one)... exh. valves are to the front of the cylinders...  it should be 'rocked'  opening the exh. valve.  that means you are up on #1..  if #2 exh. rocker is not rocked, then you are up on #6....  jojo

Thanks you sir.

2 hours ago, R.E.D said:

Thanks you sir.

Red Is your engine equipped with Jacobs or Dynatard  or nothing? you need to cross reference like engine configurations to get the right part !What your doing will work however you are worried about the right things here! That said the exhaust manifold thing is much less intrusive ! but if your doing a cam anyway..............! I get it! and in my opinion you should convert the exhaust to  5 inch as well! Put your cards on the table it will be easier to help if we can!  

Edited by fjh

good question 'F'... i read back a few posts, and I believe he has an ASET-C without an engine brake..  But I'm not so sure...  I expect it to have a powerleash..  I dont think I ever worked on an ASET that didnt have an engine brake,,,  :) if he has powerleash, we need to clarify the proper valve adjust steps,,,   ceramic lifters dont like an incorrect adjustment..   jojo

9 minutes ago, Joey Mack said:

good question 'F'... i read back a few posts, and I believe he has an ASET-C without an engine brake..  But I'm not so sure...  I expect it to have a powerleash..  I dont think I ever worked on an ASET that didnt have an engine brake,,,  :) if he has powerleash, we need to clarify the proper valve adjust steps,,,   ceramic lifters dont like an incorrect adjustment..   jojo

I do like the power leash set up all the ones I have seen and  worked on always worked decent compared to Dynatard sorry mistake in the post above!The 40 thou feeler was a pain to find but otherwise peice of cake to set! Note also when your setting besure if your engine does not have a guide pin on the intake valves that the cross head is seated correctly One of the boys from work called me yesterday and said he had done a cam job the week before and it came back a week later ticking! He found a bad set on one intake I questioned him on the yoke pin He said nope no pin  I said re set it ! I think you'll be fine now!  

Just something to watch for!

Edited by fjh

I have small pairs of feeler gauges that I took out of sets, and riveted them together. I have different pairs for different engines..  which also means I have full feeler gauge sets that are missing several individual gauges... ( no longer full set's)  :) 

2 minutes ago, Joey Mack said:

I have small pairs of feeler gauges that I took out of sets, and riveted them together. I have different pairs for different engines..  which also means I have full feeler gauge sets that are missing several individual gauges... ( no longer full set's)  :) 

😜 I managed to find one through the snap-on criminal!

for the power leash, I have a .022" and a .023", riveted together so I can set the engine brake lash..  screw the tool trucks..  :) 

  • Like 1
37 minutes ago, Joey Mack said:

good question 'F'... i read back a few posts, and I believe he has an ASET-C without an engine brake..  But I'm not so sure...  I expect it to have a powerleash..  I dont think I ever worked on an ASET that didnt have an engine brake,,,  :) if he has powerleash, we need to clarify the proper valve adjust steps,,,   ceramic lifters dont like an incorrect adjustment..   jojo

It’s an AI and he wants to put an AC cam in it. The trucks a granite. 

2 hours ago, Onyx610 said:

It’s an AI and he wants to put an AC cam in it. The trucks a granite. 

yup well a wear ! Thanks !clarity is good! I believe these AC were offered with jake or power leash! if he receives a power leash  cam and doesn't use it it will  likely be fine ! If he receives a power leash cam and has a Jake!  different story me thinks! 

Just sayin!

Edited by fjh

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