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https://dexheavydutyparts.com   Joe H ..  look them up.  I have an E-Tech engine in my shop that belongs to a customer from Missouri. He bought it from a location 30 minutes from me, I went and picked it up, and I am re-building it..  They have a boatload of parts..  Good luck, jojo

I guess, my idea was to get quality used parts, via UPS or FED-EX..  I am lucky to have them close to me.  I wish others would buy engines from them for me to build..  jojo

https://www.firstmotionproducts.com/mack-flywheel-housing-634gc5337m2/

Called these guys this afternoon at 2:30, talked to Dale.  Top notch fellow, he had 2 in stock in their Allentown PA warehouse. Paid $1200 over the phone, made the 50 minute drive and picked it up before the warehouse closed at 3:30! 

It's aftermarket, no name on the casting and there's minor differences, but the part number they listed is a dead match to the "old" part number Mack gave me. Will very carefully compare it to the old one as we tear it apart. It's my understanding that there's different depth flywheel housings.

We have the engine rebuild book, so we will do what we can regarding "alignment" as there are adjustable dowel pins or some BS.

Edited by JoeH
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since it is an E-Tech CCRS engine, Flywheel housing should just bolt on properly.. It certainly wont hurt to check it, especially because of the current damage to the flywheel housing.. jojo

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I had another thought...  check the bell housing flange for wear that could causes the bell housing bolts to loosen, and therefore cause the tranny to move, and crack the flywheel housing.. I had an '01 RD that had loose bell housing bolts, and I would remove them and put lock tight on them, put'em back in, and next service they were loose again..  I knew it was the bell housing, but because it was a T-2070 tranny, and I handled all maintenance intervals, I just kept tightening them whenever I saw the truck, until it was time for a clutch, then I Sent it to "Overdrive rebuilders" to get the case replaced..  and a re-build..  jojo

19 hours ago, JoeH said:

https://www.firstmotionproducts.com/mack-flywheel-housing-634gc5337m2/

Called these guys this afternoon at 2:30, talked to Dale.  Top notch fellow, he had 2 in stock in their Allentown PA warehouse. Paid $1200 over the phone, made the 50 minute drive and picked it up before the warehouse closed at 3:30! 

It's aftermarket, no name on the casting and there's minor differences, but the part number they listed is a dead match to the "old" part number Mack gave me. Will very carefully compare it to the old one as we tear it apart. It's my understanding that there's different depth flywheel housings.

We have the engine rebuild book, so we will do what we can regarding "alignment" as there are adjustable dowel pins or some BS.

Always a good idea to indicate a bell housing that's new to an engine.  

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On 5/5/2022 at 4:39 PM, Joey Mack said:

I had another thought...  check the bell housing flange for wear that could causes the bell housing bolts to loosen, and therefore cause the tranny to move, and crack the flywheel housing.. I had an '01 RD that had loose bell housing bolts, and I would remove them and put lock tight on them, put'em back in, and next service they were loose again..  I knew it was the bell housing, but because it was a T-2070 tranny, and I handled all maintenance intervals, I just kept tightening them whenever I saw the truck, until it was time for a clutch, then I Sent it to "Overdrive rebuilders" to get the case replaced..  and a re-build..  jojo

Broken lower right flywheel housing to block bolt.

 

How do we adjust flywheel housing runout? 

0.022, 0.000

0.028, 0.013

Those are the runout readings on the four corners.

are these readings posted, as they were read on the engine?  is .022 at 12 O'Clock?  , then 3 O'Clock,  is '0' then 6 O'Clock is .013, and 9 O'Clock is .028?  

yes to locating dowels,,  So the reading s you have may be good..  keep in mind that the crank shaft may move eliptically because of main bearing clearence, and wear..  You are allowed .020" of runout when checking with a dial indicator on the end of the crank shaft.  I can not post pics anymore, so if you P.M. your cell #, I can send pics from my Book..  there is also a specific flywheel housing for Allison's and the inner mounting bolt are specific,  similar looking bolts can bottom out and not tighten to around 170 lbft properly.. I hope I can help you,  jojo

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I would have much rather had the Mack brand flywheel housing, but Mack has yet to get back to me on an ETA.

First Motion part number from online matched the Mack number, but noted that it wants 7/16 bolts for the flywheel to bellhousing, not the metric ones that Mack had. New flywheel housing is within 1/16th overall depth of the old one. Overall I hope I'm not screwed.

Trans is bolted up, torque converter is bolted to flywheel.  Time to torque up some things and keep working.... Late night...

 

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So It seems like the housing is listing to the right.. When were the main bearings replaced?  I swear I am not trying to make a mountain out of this,  just asking..  engine runs clockwise, making the thrust side , the right side..  ?? the dowel that is a blade type is older but not sure if it correct, I see full round pins in E-Tech's,  the bladed pins are to be installed vertically..  the bolts on your engine are METRIC..  i dont get the 7/16 x 14 size.. I'll be right back... I will get the bolt size in a bit... jojo

ok... My Mack book shows the part # for the inner bolts w/Allison tranny as: 429GC23M...  That bolt is 2 inches long..  I cant imagine it is an SAE bolt..  jojo

Check out Dowel pin # 183GC237.it's the later pin after 1992..  I believe it is a full round pin.. The bladed pin you have is ok, but you may feel better with the pin I posted.   I'm into this,  post, so keep asking questions, and If I get off track, let me know..    jojo

Edited by Joey Mack
Poor spelling

My dad cut out around 7, I put in another 4 hours trying to get dumb stuff done that doesn't need 2 people.

Remaining:

Trans mount bolts

Battery cables to new starter, tie up wiring

PTO shaft & drive shaft

Rear oil pan bolts/readjust gasket

Reinstall the water tank for the mixer body

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11 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

yes to locating dowels,,  So the reading s you have may be good..  keep in mind that the crank shaft may move eliptically because of main bearing clearence, and wear..  You are allowed .020" of runout when checking with a dial indicator on the end of the crank shaft.  I can not post pics anymore, so if you P.M. your cell #, I can send pics from my Book..  there is also a specific flywheel housing for Allison's and the inner mounting bolt are specific,  similar looking bolts can bottom out and not tighten to around 170 lbft properly.. I hope I can help you,  jojo

Joey, those readings Joe gave to us seemed accurate and with a little bit of offset from the specs. So my first guess was to tinker with the dowel pins (or leave as is since the run out was not extremely huge). But in fact we center the flywheel housing to get the tranny shaft centered which is based in the tranny (bell) housing. And if we try to be accurate within 0.008" figure it worth to make measurements of the bel housing run out. i honestly can't imagine how such a job could be done since we should use the tranny input shaft as the center. And it sure has plenty of play in its bearing. Something like a special pivot tool you install in the input shaft bore in the housing is needed on my mind. Otherwise all those rocket science tolerances over flywheel housing alining mean no more than only a half of the story.

Никогда не бывает слишком много грузовиков! leversole 11.2012

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