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3 minutes ago, Joey Mack said:

take a look at the box rubber's.. i bet you can wiggle them with the truck sitting normally...  ATRO makes a descent kit and it's affordable...  jojo

Are the elephant pads more for forward and back movement? From what I have seen anyway. If that’s the case you will see The “T” marks on the front and or backside of the “buckets”. Sometimes the big centering dowl on the springs rusts away to nothing.  

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I appreciate the feed back and info. Just took a quick look and the bushings are shot. So I guess that’ll be the next fix in the next few weeks. I have all the tools and space necessary to do the job. The biggest problem I have is time. I have a lot of work on my hands that the whole process might take a week or two. 

Edited by DragoMack
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Its a bit of work.  Do you have to replace the A-Frame?  or are you talking about the bolsters in the spring boxes? just curious. I know full well what is in youre future..  Wish I was there to help you get it done..  jojo

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7 minutes ago, Mark T said:

If he doesn't know what's wrong with it ?  I'm guessing he's not about to take on changing the trunion  stand

Two years ago I changed out the whole trunion from the original to a 3/4” thick steel trunion. I’m not afraid of doing the work and I would consider myself new to heavy trucks. I’ve only had about 2 years experience with them. For me the biggest issue I’ll have is time. I’ve got more than enough work on my hands that changing bushings isn’t the biggest priority rn

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If the A-Frame is not rusted out at the bottom where the trunnion is mounted, and not cracked real bad inside the frame, and all you have is 'D' shaped trunnion  ends...  I have actually hired an axle surgeon company that will cut the trunnion bar out and weld in a new one..  I have hired this service 4 times and the work is pretty good. and it was $1500.00... I had to strip the wheels and spring packs off, but so what, gotta do it anyway, then I got new pivots from Mack and built my spring packs on the side. then put it all back together the next day.  My guess is the company in youre area will have the name of your state followed by Axle surgeon.  jojo

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6 minutes ago, Joey Mack said:

If the A-Frame is not rusted out at the bottom where the trunnion is mounted, and not cracked real bad inside the frame, and all you have is 'D' shaped trunnion  ends...  I have actually hired an axle surgeon company that will cut the trunnion bar out and weld in a new one..  I have hired this service 4 times and the work is pretty good. and it was $1500.00... I had to strip the wheels and spring packs off, but so what, gotta do it anyway, then I got new pivots from Mack and built my spring packs on the side. then put it all back together the next day.  My guess is the company in youre area will have the name of your state followed by Axle surgeon.  jojo

I’d have to check tomorrow. It’s night time now. 2 years ago I changed out the whole trunion. As a newby it never occurred to me to check the condition of the bar. But as I get into it I’ll see how much damage I’m really in. Thanks for the info! 

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to check the wear on the ends, I used to put a magnetic dial indicator on the bar and the pointer on the pivot, (wheels still on the truck) then jack the truck off the ground to get a reading,,  at 100 thousanths,  i knew the bar ends were likely worn out. you can pull the caps and clean the grease out of the way to see the movement, bring a friend to help.. you can raise and lower the truck until you feel you have the answer..  jojo

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1 hour ago, DragoMack said:

Two years ago I changed out the whole trunion from the original to a 3/4” thick steel trunion. I’m not afraid of doing the work and I would consider myself new to heavy trucks. I’ve only had about 2 years experience with them. For me the biggest issue I’ll have is time. I’ve got more than enough work on my hands that changing bushings isn’t the biggest priority rn

Maybe there's hope. Don't forget the springs might be worn where the dowels go in on the ends. Didn't mean to sound offensive, but guys are often reluctant to accept that when they start " walking " it's usually not just the pads ( the cheapest easiest thing )  

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So some Mack camelback trucks have a torque arm on the rear differential going to the right frame rail. It prevents the axles from walking. Check to see if you have one, check condition of the joints at either end. Replace if worn.  Also, elephant pads aren't a terrible job, doable in a day, but they do take some serious torque to tighten down.  Expect to replace all bolts, you will likely be torching some off. Few different styles of pads I believe. Some use a metal side insert some don't.

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Welcome Mark,  If you post some pics of yours we can point you in the right direction. Camel back bolster replacement is easy to understand, just laborious.. ATRO makes an excellent kit that is a lot cheaper and more complete than MACK's kit..  and is found at many truck part's stores.  Jojo

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