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there is a small pipe plug behind the breather.. you can grab a 10mm socket and remove the breather, clean the area, and run the engine to see if it leaks.. jojo

yes balancer comes off, crank hub comes off, ( theres a process to putting the hub back on), alt. and bracket comes off, and pull the fan off for room.  also lower engine mount comes off..  there is no gasket, it is Mack gray RTV...  If you do this repair,  get Mack gray RTV or the BEST alternative RTV you can find...  there are 2 locating dowels on the cover and very little area to pry the cover loose, so be carful..  you will need a new hub seal..  look up how to seat the seal...  ok, I will stop now,,  jojo

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As Joey Mack said there is another identical pipe plug about 1.5 inches below the one you removed but it’s behind the front timing cover. These usually leak towards the inside into the oil pan and cause low oil pressure due to thinning the oil with fuel and also your oil level will rise. But I have seen one leak to the outside. The plug that is visible is a good place to check fuel pressure. It’s standard pipe threads so it’s easy to adapt fittings and hoses to run to a 1-100 psi guage to monitor fuel pressure during test drives . The original Etech engine was made with two separate fuel galleys , one for pressure and one for return fuel. This is the reason for the 2 pipe plugs. The engine blocks were drilled front to back so there are two pipe plugs in the front and two in the back of the block . They were separated by the middle o-rings on the 6 EUP electronic unit pumps.  Later Mack decided that the middle o-ring wasn’t needed so a lot the the rebuilt EUP’s don’t have a place for the middle o-ring. I always thought the middle o-ring was a good idea. That way you could run the higher fuel supply pressure (100 psi vs 60 psi ) which is between the upper and middle o-ring and low pressure fuel return was between the middle and lower o-ring. It would be less chance of  fuel getting in the oil past the bottom o-ring into the oil pan . Before Volvo took over the dealerships could actually call and talk to the engineers that built and designed the engines. I talked to one who said that the bottom o-rings would seep fuel regardless but not enough to matter between oil changes. He was right as many times I dropped the oil pan on a hot engine and capped off the fuel system and pressurized to 60 psi with due in the fuel. You could slowly see with a black light the fuel seep past the o-rings but not enough to make a drip.  The real leaks were easy to find as they would show up fast with a black light. Fuel supply pump gear bushing , a bad lower EUP o-ring or loose fuel galley plug on the block as talked about above we’re the usual problems of fuel in the oil . Sorry for the long post , I miss working on the old stuff. 

Edited by Mackpro
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that hump is where the plug is...  to bad there isnt a different shape to the cover to let you get to the plug.. I wish I had a spare cover kicking around, so i could look and see if there was a way to drill it out to get to the plug and tap threads in it for another plug...  dammit.... jojo

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hey bud...  you have to pull the hood, and cooling pack because there is no room to do the job..  You need to be sure about what you are seeing.. for a guy like me the job is easy,  hood off in 30 mins,  cooling pack, 15 mins if you drain it first..  Im sorry if this seems like a bunch of work for a BS leak..   but... it is what it is... jojo

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