mowerman Posted March 9, 2022 Share Posted March 9, 2022 I had one on so tight was back in 70s on a car had all the sheet metal completely gone I was banging the base plate around with a hammer and chisel I finally got it off I think somebody put it on with a wrench … Bob 1 1 Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/69347-changing-the-oil/page/2/#findComment-491444 Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeH Posted March 10, 2022 Share Posted March 10, 2022 Incase no one's mentioned it, always check to the engine to make sure the filter o ring came off with the filter. Also always rub oil or fuel on the o ring on the new filter before install. Lubricates it so that the o ring won't "bunch up" on install. Dry fuel filter o rings will bunch up and suck air in. Filter usually states instructions: spin it on to contact (not hand tight) then tighten either 3/4 turn or 1 full turn. I've never had a problem with removing *my* oil filters with our nylon strap wrench, though we also have an assortment of the metal band wrenches. Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/69347-changing-the-oil/page/2/#findComment-491472 Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeH Posted March 10, 2022 Share Posted March 10, 2022 (edited) We ALWAYS prefill oil filters, and we usually prefill fuel filters. If you don't prefill the fuel filters it sucks to hand prime the fuel system. If you DO prefill the fuel filters it's a simple matter of just starting the truck and revving the engine a bit to help carry it through any stumbling as the air pockets in the top of the fuel filters comes through the system. I think it's easier to hand prime a truck with full fuel tanks than low tanks. Less "feet of elevation" for you to draw fuel up. Don't know how much of a difference it makes. Edited March 10, 2022 by JoeH Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/69347-changing-the-oil/page/2/#findComment-491473 Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeH Posted March 10, 2022 Share Posted March 10, 2022 If you have a coolant filter it would be on the top front of the engine, above the fan belts. I think the Mack coolant filter has an additive in it that "recharges" the pH? of the coolant. Changing this filter too often can cause the coolant to become corrosive via electrolysis (I think). Someone here wrote a test procedure to test the conductivity of the coolant with a volt meter. There's a certain ohms range it's supposed to be in. Outside of that can be problematic. (never concerned us much...) As with all things, "Trust but verify!" 1 Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/69347-changing-the-oil/page/2/#findComment-491476 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onyx610 Posted March 10, 2022 Share Posted March 10, 2022 Or just get fleetguard test strips 1 Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/69347-changing-the-oil/page/2/#findComment-491480 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted March 10, 2022 Share Posted March 10, 2022 The coolant filter can be changed once every 2 years if you dont check the Ph.. there are test strips for this, but if the truck is a fleet truck, no telling what driver put what amount of water in it... so , based on application, would determine testing the Ph. of course you could always change the filter annually. you decide how to do it.. if you are the only one managing the fleet then you know the use and abuse of your units... just saying... jojo Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/69347-changing-the-oil/page/2/#findComment-491482 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ricky Beals Posted March 10, 2022 Author Share Posted March 10, 2022 (edited) Thanks guys a lot of good advice. I didn’t prefill the oil filters but will in the future. I will prefill the fuel filters, I have a transfer tank that has a filter that I can get diesel from and know it’s clean. Ok I’m guessing I can get a test kit and check my coolant. What do you want your ph at? Never really thought about coolant ph. I just check to see how cold it can go without freezing. Edited March 10, 2022 by Ricky Beals Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/69347-changing-the-oil/page/2/#findComment-491483 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onyx610 Posted March 10, 2022 Share Posted March 10, 2022 (edited) I have never had any issue with putting on a dry filter. This is all preference. Especially with oil, for the few seconds you will have “low oil pressure” isn’t an issue at idle and the pump really moves some oil quick. Also there is always oil left in the oil gallies and bearings after draining. The issue you could have is dirt/dirty oil that could go straight to mains, rods, cam bearings, and piston cooling jets. The only time I would prefill is if the engine sat a very long time or was a rebuild. Even with assembly lube. Edited March 10, 2022 by Onyx610 Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/69347-changing-the-oil/page/2/#findComment-491485 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ricky Beals Posted March 10, 2022 Author Share Posted March 10, 2022 Did the Mack RD 686 come with the informer on the side of the air cleaner? I have one and don’t have a clue if it is even working or working correctly. After reading a little on it they advise to use a vacuum pump to check it. Any other way to check one? I can’t think of anything I would need a vacuum pump for. I’m going change the air filter because I don’t have a clue how old that one is. The informer is showing very little restriction but don’t know if it even is working. Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/69347-changing-the-oil/page/2/#findComment-491489 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted March 10, 2022 Share Posted March 10, 2022 if there is no hose attached. its a stand alone restriction gauge.. if there is a bit of red showing, press and hold the yellow button on top and see if it resets. if it does, its probably good to go.. check the air filter anyway... jojo Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/69347-changing-the-oil/page/2/#findComment-491491 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onyx610 Posted March 10, 2022 Share Posted March 10, 2022 (edited) Edited March 10, 2022 by Onyx610 Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/69347-changing-the-oil/page/2/#findComment-491494 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted March 10, 2022 Share Posted March 10, 2022 Good luck Rickey... I'm glad you are interested in the proper maintenance of youre truck.. I'm out.. jojo 1 Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/69347-changing-the-oil/page/2/#findComment-491495 Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeH Posted March 10, 2022 Share Posted March 10, 2022 Air filter housing nuts are plastic, don't overtighten them they strip out real easy. Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/69347-changing-the-oil/page/2/#findComment-491503 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ricky Beals Posted March 10, 2022 Author Share Posted March 10, 2022 When I try to add a photo I get the message my file is to large. The photo is taken with iPhone. I have uploaded photos before from phone without getting this error. Anybody have a clue what’s going on. Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/69347-changing-the-oil/page/2/#findComment-491507 Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeH Posted March 10, 2022 Share Posted March 10, 2022 On my android I have to crop them sometimes in the photo app, then upload the cropped photo. Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/69347-changing-the-oil/page/2/#findComment-491515 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ricky Beals Posted March 11, 2022 Author Share Posted March 11, 2022 I try and support my local Mack dealer but man they are just to high on those parts. Window regulator is 120.00, RD air filter is 99.00. I look on line and see doorman has the regulator for 59.00 and of course a lot of different options on air filter but most are half price. Guess I’m just a little tight and wanting to vent. Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/69347-changing-the-oil/page/2/#findComment-491657 Share on other sites More sharing options...
67RModel Posted March 11, 2022 Share Posted March 11, 2022 Yea I was going to say in my shpeal about engine filters that the single air filter is well over the cost of the engine filter kit at Mack. Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/69347-changing-the-oil/page/2/#findComment-491658 Share on other sites More sharing options...
67RModel Posted March 11, 2022 Share Posted March 11, 2022 As said previously though you don't really want to skimp on your filters. A window regulator is not critical though and acceptable to get in the aftermarket. Plenty of good quality air filters in the aftermarket too if you decide to go that route. Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/69347-changing-the-oil/page/2/#findComment-491662 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onyx610 Posted March 11, 2022 Share Posted March 11, 2022 A lot of times those parts are cheaper for a reason, a lot of times I have seen a oem part last an extremely long time and then the cheaper ones need to be replaced a few times in a short period. However there is still good aftermarket parts out there. Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/69347-changing-the-oil/page/2/#findComment-491664 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve L Posted March 13, 2022 Share Posted March 13, 2022 A friend of mine in his retirement purchased a late 60s 250 flintstone (R model) for resto. because I done an apprenticeship at Mack’s back then when they were introduced he gets me to sort tech problems when they arise. He had an oil cooler leak so he rectified it himself and changed the oil and filters. Oil pressure dropped from usually 60+psi to 10 - 12. . . . I advised him to fit a manual gauge at different points around the engine and still showed 12 psi. He removed the cooler again, checked everything, refitted but still low pressure. I didn’t visit the truck this time but over the phone he told me he fitted Fleetguard filters. I insisted he fit new Mack filters and he was adamant Fleetguard were new and ok. I told him I would come fit Mack filters If he didn’t. Problem solved, I didn’t get to cross reference the Fleetguard filter numbers because he took them back to the dealer but one thought came to mind, he may have been supplied with fuel filters. I have serviced 100s maybe near 1000s of Mack’s back then until I seemed to get gearbox rebuilds, I can assure you we filled oil and fuel filters every time from a clean source. I’m a stickler for genuine parts for the driveline and mechanical’s steve Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/69347-changing-the-oil/page/2/#findComment-492020 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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