Cost to do king pins on a 2007 Mack MR

[Joey Mack]

just get both ends apart and use the old pin to see if the boss's in the beams are worn out...  it will be easy to see..  if they are a little bit worn and the bushings in the knuckle are wicked bad, but not worn into the knuckle,, you may just be able to put a new king pin set in it and get by just fine..  jojo

[880joe]

I believe the last set of mack kingpins I bought were around 500 from mack a couple of years ago

[mowerman]

Lots of good advice their fellas if I were you I would at least try it myself it might take you a little longer but you would sure save a lot of money any vehicle repair of these days is very expensive specially hard core muscle work like you have there good luck …. If you’ve got the money cool go for a reputable shop ……. Bob

[Joey Mack]

hey Bob... we are the reputable shop.... With Love... Jojo  

[mowerman]

By all means my brother I would take anything to you even all my cars I just assumed this fella was way too far away….. Bob

[giannid]

I would attempt if and have a heated shop with air tools and a compressor.  Just have never done it before and it's not like there's a book or something I can get to show me exactly how to do it.  My luck I'll get stuck and have to tow it somewhere to get finished.  

[Joey Mack]

its all good... Bob... i was 'F'n' with you....       jojo

Edited March 14, 2022 by Joey Mack
More content needed

[Joey Mack]

'G' I truly understand....  yes it is hard work, not rocket surgery, just hard work..  too bad we arent close to each other..  I would come do it with you..  jojo

[mowerman]

Yes sir me too I would gladly give you a hand I have setalene tanks I know that’s not spelled right ha ha… Bob

[mowerman]

As I mentioned if you got the bread and need it done you got to have it fixed……: bob

[mowerman]

And yes with a gig like that you might wind up against the brick wall…. Bob 

[JoeH]

I'm no expert, but I'd be surprised if the beam is shot.  The kingpin usually "locks" to the beam on the tapered center section.  It's the steering knuckle that rotates on the kingpin and takes the wear.  Removal sucks, there's a special + shaped socket for them. Tool also comes with a thread chaser to clean it up before reinstall.  My dealership was nice enough to lend me theirs a couple years ago for my '95 RD688S.  Disassembly is basically block up axle, remove wheel and brakes, remove cotter pin, remove + nut and top cap, place an old kingpin on top of the kingpin you're trying to remove and beat it with a 6 or 8 lb sledge hammer. It'll drop out eventually. Remove the upper and lower bushings, polish off any burs, install new bushings, thrust bearing, pin, etc. Install + nut and cap, (cap is supposed to get tack welded on so grease pressure doesn't push it off...) The purpose of the + nut is to set the spacing of the steering knuckle in relation to the axle beam.  The beam is supposed to "Float" in between the upper and lower knuckle bushings without making contact. Book spec's so many thousandths of an inch of gap.

Tools needed:

usual wheel/brake tools,

+ Nut tool kit

Big ratchet or gun to spin + Nut

Grinder if top cap is tacked on

Big sledge hammer and punch 

Normal hammer and socket or chisel to remove bushings

Probably missed a few things...

[JoeH]

My 1979 has same style of king pins, Mack has been using them forever.

[JoeH]

https://www.tillmantools.com/Kent-Moore-J-44004-King-Pin-Cap-Tool-Kit-p/kmtj-44004.htm

 

Here's the + nut kit, comes with 2 sizes, for the lighter axles and the bigger axles.

[JoeH]

Hardest task is removing the + nut. We had to use oxy acetylene torch to heat up the steering knuckle so we could turn the nut.  

[Joey Mack]

for sure,  I live in the southeast now, so rust is not very common.. like it was when I lived in Maine.. I dont use torches near as much,  I still reassemble with anti seize wherever possible. jojo

Edited March 14, 2022 by Joey Mack
Poor spelling

[giannid]

Truck is from Miami so not much rust.  LOL.  Road trip JoJo?  Lol

 

[Joey Mack]

I would love too..  My brother lives near Boca.... jojo

[Joey Mack]

I just did a set of these in an '86 superliner..  It went well.. I have an old '+nut' that i cut grooves in to make a chaser for the threads.. it works good for cleaning the threads without cutting them..  the new kits DO NOT come with new '+nut's'..  just FYI... jojo

[mowerman]

2 hours ago, JoeH said:

Hardest task is removing the + nut. We had to use oxy acetylene torch to heat up the steering knuckle so we could turn the nut.  

Los Angeles Mack used to lend me tools all the time but I was always there back in the early 80s sure helps a lot with the specialized tools.. bob

[mowerman]

11 hours ago, giannid said:

I would attempt if and have a heated shop with air tools and a compressor.  Just have never done it before and it's not like there's a book or something I can get to show me exactly how to do it.  My luck I'll get stuck and have to tow it somewhere to get finished.  

Well that should help you but yes they work area so it’s very important especially the heated garage don’t blame youe for not wanting to do it out doors I wouldn’t… Bob

[doubleclutchinweasel]

22 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

actually Bob,  I do not know how far back the adjustable tapered king pins go, but if you look at your 'R' model, on the bottom of the king pin, you may see a 'cross' were the large cotter pin goes through...  thats the adjuster. of course its only 90 degrees at a time, and not a fine adjustment.  you may also have shims between the axle beam and the knuckle. if multiple adjustments are being done, I would be concerned about the thrust bearing at the bottom of the pin..  anyway,  he probably has the newer style..  jojo

That's what mine had.  I replaced them myself and they were very easy.  That nut to adjust the thrust bearing was a really good idea.  And, the tapered shanks made for easy removal of the pins.

Edited March 14, 2022 by doubleclutchinweasel

[fjh]

2 hours ago, doubleclutchinweasel said:

That's what mine had.  I replaced them myself and they were very easy.  That nut to adjust the thrust bearing was a really good idea.  And, the tapered shanks made for easy removal of the pins.

Long as you can get a clear swing with a sledge on these your laughfin  remove the spider if you have to! Love doing these  pins so easy once the bottom nut is out that's the only not nice part of the job!

[doubleclutchinweasel]

1 minute ago, fjh said:

Long as you can get a clear swing with a sledge on these your laughfin  remove the spider if you have to! Love doing these  pins so easy once the bottom nut is out that's the only not nice part of the job!

I actually pulled the hubs off to get in there.  Looked like it might have been possible to do them without it, though.  Easier than most light-duty pins I ever did back in my youth.  Shame more designers don't understand the basic principle of the taper!

[fjh]

10 minutes ago, doubleclutchinweasel said:

I actually pulled the hubs off to get in there.  Looked like it might have been possible to do them without it, though.  Easier than most light-duty pins I ever did back in my youth.  Shame more designers don't understand the basic principle of the taper!

Its really to bad Theses Volvo turds didn't take some of the good Mack Ideas and put them to use! That said they did use a tapper on the Volvo and I don't have much bad to say over this axle It is about the only thing on the truck that is worthy  of having a Mack Stamp On it!