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12 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

If anyone tells you any B.S.  tell them to go away, or you go away..  I was almost cut in half by an employee of mine, we were working on a Cat V-250... older lift.  I was setting it up to replace lines and I had the forks up and was fixing a chain, to hold it up and I had long 4x4's ready to put in the channels as an extra helper, and dum dum was starting to take line clamps off and lines.. If I didnt see him, he would have possibly pulled a line that would have changed both our lives..  anyway...  jojo

That's kinda what happened on the one I saw.

"Eagles may soar, but weasels don't get sucked into jet engines."

Sounds like a fare amount of effort to cut up and chuck away when done

I would make a strong steel saw horse but big enough to straddle the chassis

This could be made in three bits, each side and a steel beam across aways 

You still have the saw horse for later and you didn't have to dig a hole 

Anyway your idea sounds good enough except for getting the post into position and getting it out of position 

I have found hydraulic rams big or small take a lot more effort than I can apply easily to open and close, and big rams take more effore than I can apply with a big ratchet strap 

So you might need a plan 'B' there if you cant collapse the ram

 

Paul 

I havn’t fiddled with a ram this big before or one in such an enclosed place. I will try come up with a more powerful way to collaps the ram before starting this job. are we talking a come along type of force or a block and tackle maybe ?

I’m on a cattle station and puttig in fence strainer posts or pulling them out is a common job we do here. Seemed like the cheapest easiest sollution. Might put more thought into it cheers

Just went to town and bought a come along 900kg was all the shop had. Will go crank up the chainsaw now and get into it. Will be a lot more fun hooking that come along up first rather than finding out truck strap wont pull ram down later on after its all up in the air. Thanks for the tip saved a potential greif cheers 

you will have a helper there also== correct. there are a number of ways to remove a piston. you are comfortable with way you described . go for it. single piston with hyd tank behind cab , i put a 4x4 by hyd tank to stop piston from hitting anything. will need ratchet strap to lower ram for sure. 

i've use the piston to raise the body; first have everything in body ready for piston removal.  secure a strap inside front near piston pin, raise body. block the body . using the inside strap to get yourself up the raised body to top pin, (climbing a mountain) remove pin , lower piston=remove.  whatever way is safer

  • Like 1
37 minutes ago, The Nitro said:

Just went to town and bought a come along 900kg was all the shop had. Will go crank up the chainsaw now and get into it. Will be a lot more fun hooking that come along up first rather than finding out truck strap wont pull ram down later on after its all up in the air. Thanks for the tip saved a potential greif cheers 

don't take the hyd line off the bottom of piston till last. put the cab lever in down position as you ratchet the piston down . oil has to go somewhere back in the tank is better than on the floor. 

Yep, I’ve got my helper ready. We just went and got our log and dug our hole. Just about to position our truck over thd hole.

I was going to undo the 4 bolts on pad above the top eye of ram before raising body. The top of ram is 4 ft up inside the body triangle shape enclosure so it wont be able to go anywhere if I undo the bolts first. Might slide sideways a little but that shouldnt matter hopefully. Heres a couple pics.

9AEBD297-E87C-4428-BF31-8BE79B22BE84.jpeg.056ad087e037451c29f79ea56d3b7a9e.jpeg

 

67A2DCB9-DB99-45ED-B982-7709CC051BCA.jpeg.112859af70d27cd06f4db1386bdac55d.jpeg

 

D3C55FBC-4D29-455C-A2A3-9844372C5C0C.jpeg.27c13f59ed059616735c9f71ffa7e815.jpeg

  • Like 1

I’m looking at this cylinder nut and in my toolbox and I’m not seeing anything I have that can undo this ring with 4 holes drilled in it. Hmmm.

 

Done a quick lap up behind my shed around my junk pile and found a couple bits of garbage that I will attempt to cobble together to make a tool 😆.

788A8929-B9FF-4D54-B7AB-C314F8B1F328.jpeg.1dfb265c08928a5e77924af0c1df4066.jpeg

 

7F49EFF9-15F2-4D03-9320-547EC2EBE1C8.jpeg.51bbc9aeed611466e9d84ec2ac2bda65.jpeg

23 minutes ago, The Nitro said:

I’m in. No idea what I’m doing but will keep trying to get it all apart. Worst case, I take it to a pro and say “fix that” or I gotta buy a new one. Nothin wrong with wanting to taking a little peak in here hey. 

0EDC6190-EA32-4138-9D85-3528058044E5.jpeg.3f57c2f5c455624638112c09f8d1d694.jpeg

I love doing that kind of stuff! Sometimes my curiosity gets expensive. Your pry just gonna find a lot of seals/o rings. Most of these rebuilds can be done yourself. Good luck!

I’m seeing a few scuffs in this threaded thing that holds the fattest seals but not seeing any obvious tear or split in either the dust or pressure seals so thats probably not good. Hmmm. Was hoping to see a seal with something obvious wrong with it. This fat section is where the leak is. 

A321C809-A87B-44C2-B43A-121A3DB8FDB4.jpeg.2d0255fa7e6ae83188cef0ae53eaead9.jpeg

 

86F3CBDF-C929-4AF3-8123-D2ED76A682F6.jpeg.7db96f7247c4981a49c15a8df206bde9.jpegThe old seals that go inside the threaded collar/nut whatever its called consist of a black rubber ring with an upside down V shape at top face which sits into a V shape groove in bottom face of the red hard seal. These go inside one machined groove in collar together.  Red ring is loose fit on the cylinder its trying to seal and the black one under it is a better fit but not snug. I’m imagining the V is to get oil to expand seal but dont really know.

 

The new seal kit has thd red and black seals that look the same and they feel about the same on cylinder for tightness. Ie, can see daylight between red hard seal and cylinder???

BUT, theres a blue seal in the kit that has the same shape as this old red seal but made from a slightly softer compound and is a very nice fit over the cylinder. This has me stumped as I cant see any other place where this blue seal in kit might go. 

Its not a dust seal, the kit does have a blue dust seal but this one is same shape as the red one. 

 

I’m tempted to use the blue one instead of the red one but dont know why they have it in the kit as well as the red one. Theres also some flat plastic orange rings that I cant see a place where they might go either.

 

I havnt undone the retainer clips inside  the cylinders yet to get those apart but I can tell by the size this v shape blue seal wont fit in there anywhere.

 

anyone have any ideas about this blue v seal or the red one? There is only 1 of these “spare” blue v seals and it can only fit on the largest cylinder from what I can tell.

 

This is the bottom of fattest cylinder and I see a bronze type bush here but doesnt look like it comes off and theres a hole that looks to let oil in under the cylinders to pump em up so doesnt look like the flat plastic rings would go there. Hmmm. I’m snookered lol I like how the blud ring feels on cylinder but not sure wether to try it or to use the red loose one the same that came out of it. 

5B403948-70B8-4A5D-B3BA-D5BBD8F1A9E1.jpeg.9f4725c905cf6540a66a831b8d01d3ed.jpeg

Gland nut it’s called. Use the same colored seal that came out of it. The v is just part of the design. It needs to go in the same way it came out. 

Edited by Onyx610
I forgot the N in gland
4 minutes ago, The Nitro said:

This is the bottom of fattest cylinder and I see a bronze type bush here but doesnt look like it comes off and theres a hole that looks to let oil in under the cylinders to pump em up so doesnt look like the flat plastic rings would go there. Hmmm. I’m snookered lol I like how the blud ring feels on cylinder but not sure wether to try it or to use the red loose one the same that came out of it. 

5B403948-70B8-4A5D-B3BA-D5BBD8F1A9E1.jpeg.9f4725c905cf6540a66a831b8d01d3ed.jpeg

Telescoping cylinder 

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