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Shocks on 38s are fairly common here in Oz.
Looking at the axle pic welding a new stub on this way is not safe as I have seen these break off along side the weld. Also unless the whole axle is put in a lathe they can’t be straight causing excessive wear on planetary gears and axle shafts especially the 44 floating shafts ( the axles with splines on each end ) Is it not possible to purchase the original stub / quill from Mack’s? They’re simple to fit, should be 100% straight and not subject to crystallisation due to excessive heat concentration by welding. 

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Hmm. guess i should have kept the 4" badly welded stub that everybody said they would run. 

The original was friction welded so no sleeve fit either. 

springs are 4003a's

bearing surfaces on all four are 3.25 inner 3.00 outer with 2.27 id tubes with stamped housings. 

guess ill just keep my fingers crossed.

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15 minutes ago, Tinman22 said:

Hmm. guess i should have kept the 4" badly welded stub that everybody said they would run. 

The original was friction welded so no sleeve fit either. 

I originally said no way in hell would I run that if it was just a "new" spindle butt welded in place, which it sounds like what you are saying was the case. No disrespect to whoever decided that was a good idea but.......

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Sorry i said everyone as that was not the case. 

I did have quite a few people say the would run it though.

The original spindle was a friction/butt weld. nobody had or even offered a press in spindle

As far as straight well its not. It seems to be measuring out .010 ish pointed down and square L/R.

image.jpg

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Remember, they are ALL welded together somewhere!

Sounds like you had a good, professional repair done.  Having both bearings on the new stub should be better than the "split between the bearings" setup.

The original patch...not so much!

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"Eagles may soar, but weasels don't get sucked into jet engines."

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That spindle is hanging on the wall of shame. I do agree steve l. a pressed in spindle is what I wanted but apparently not available and after it was cut just inboard of the spin weld It became apparent why.

Where the original housing goes from square to round is only about 4" deep. The transition from sq. to rd. takes about 1 7/8" leaving approx. 2 1/8 of clean round tube. In my opinion any insert is better than none but the axle fixer people apparently disagree. 

I guess time will tell. Maybe ill take a housing from the 94" r when it gets converted over to air ride and use it on this truck.

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Maybe i'm as my wife says "just being me". I don't like vague or questionable. I like definitive. 

My jeep 6 died so it got a 440/727/dana300/dana60/14 bolt driveline. Its never left me walking.

Given the original assembly was spin welded and it seems to have all the innerds that make up 44k axles (at least according to mack) and it is definitely better than the trail fix it had before so I'll run it. 

My 94' has a bad trunion and We were going to make it air ride so maybe i'll use a housing from that if they are the same.

Still better than it was.

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Well I  reckon you've done well

You'll no longer be guessing and wondering and should be good for ever 

Happy days I reckon

It is funny how sometimes you just cant win on social media lol

As long as your happy that is all that matters 

The original repair might have been done by a professional and the ability to align things on the truck might not of been as accurate years ago as it is today

 

Great stuff

 

Paul

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