Licensed to kill Posted April 7, 2022 Share Posted April 7, 2022 .....seems to be the most common statement regarding my B61 project. Put the cab back on the chassis for summer storage and found that it doesn't fit. Apparently, the E6 is longer than the 673 (by a fair bit) so I will have to "massage" the firewall to get the cab back on. Not a big deal.....just more work. Since I have to rework the firewall anyway I will redesign it to accept the air to air intake plumbing to the left air cleaner that I am going to install. Looks like the shifter for the main might end up too far back to fit the existing opening in the floor as well so might have to deal with that as well. Still pretty minor "adjustments" compared to when I put a Mercedes diesel/4spd in a 1931 Ford model A. All part of the "fun". Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/69498-just-more-work/ Share on other sites More sharing options...
mowerman Posted April 7, 2022 Share Posted April 7, 2022 Oh man ain’t that a bitch…. But using a different frame there is always a lot of alternations I suppose next will be transmission mounts and a shorter driveshaft.. bob Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/69498-just-more-work/#findComment-494691 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Licensed to kill Posted April 7, 2022 Author Share Posted April 7, 2022 Same B61 frame. Already made new (custom) trans mounts and had a new driveshaft made and used the original front engine mount from the B61 so the FRONT of the engine is exactly where the original 673 was so the E6 has to be longer Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/69498-just-more-work/#findComment-494692 Share on other sites More sharing options...
mowerman Posted April 7, 2022 Share Posted April 7, 2022 Oh hell I thought you use an R model Frame Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/69498-just-more-work/#findComment-494693 Share on other sites More sharing options...
mowerman Posted April 7, 2022 Share Posted April 7, 2022 I think that was what I suggested a long time ago mind is slipping ha ha … bob Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/69498-just-more-work/#findComment-494695 Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrsmackpaul Posted April 7, 2022 Share Posted April 7, 2022 There's been a few of these mods done on the forum over the years Might pay to have a bit of a search and you can see what excitement is around the corner Paul Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/69498-just-more-work/#findComment-494698 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Freightrain Posted April 7, 2022 Share Posted April 7, 2022 Wonder whats longer about it? Its still just a 2 valve motor, right? Quote Larry 1959 B61 Liv'n Large...................... Charter member of the "MACK PACK" Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/69498-just-more-work/#findComment-494711 Share on other sites More sharing options...
63BMack Posted April 7, 2022 Share Posted April 7, 2022 Water pump and water pump housing.. 1 Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/69498-just-more-work/#findComment-494729 Share on other sites More sharing options...
terry Posted April 8, 2022 Share Posted April 8, 2022 Somthing being missed here, there have been a bunch of these swaps and nobody ever had to mess with firewall, i know the older engine waterpump had to be used because of it being shorter. and as 63Bmack stated pump housing. terry Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/69498-just-more-work/#findComment-494745 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maddog13407 Posted April 8, 2022 Share Posted April 8, 2022 nothin has to be done with the firewall... an E6 is a 237 is a 673 , is a 676 is a 300 , is a 300+, is a 711. all the same block. only thing needed to change from original engine is the front hub on the crank and the water pump has to be a 2 belt pulley one with short shaft. AND IF your using a double disc clutch it screws everything up. have done a bunch of these and there needs to be NO firewall modification 1 Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/69498-just-more-work/#findComment-494746 Share on other sites More sharing options...
davehummell Posted April 8, 2022 Share Posted April 8, 2022 Freightrain I followed your lead with my b-42 and replaced my 673 with a much later 1980 673 out of a fire truck I did what you did fit with no real modifications other than changing the water pump and front pulley. It was cake compared to putting a 302 ford engine in a highly manipulated model a frame with a ford 33 pickup cab. 1 Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/69498-just-more-work/#findComment-494747 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Licensed to kill Posted April 8, 2022 Author Share Posted April 8, 2022 12 hours ago, Maddog13407 said: nothin has to be done with the firewall... an E6 is a 237 is a 673 , is a 676 is a 300 , is a 300+, is a 711. all the same block. only thing needed to change from original engine is the front hub on the crank and the water pump has to be a 2 belt pulley one with short shaft. AND IF your using a double disc clutch it screws everything up. have done a bunch of these and there needs to be NO firewall modification That was my understanding when I started this project but, even with the throttle linkage removed from the back of the engine block, the firewall is right up against the back of the head and the front cab bolts are an inch or two behind the mounts. Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/69498-just-more-work/#findComment-494788 Share on other sites More sharing options...
67RModel Posted April 8, 2022 Share Posted April 8, 2022 Does it have to do with the motor mounts you are using and/or where the motor mounts bolt to the truck's frame? Perhaps there is variances in these that are causing the engine block to be located farther back. How much room do you have in the front? Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/69498-just-more-work/#findComment-494795 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Licensed to kill Posted April 8, 2022 Author Share Posted April 8, 2022 I used the original B61 front motor mount so the front of the engine pretty much HAS to be in the right/stock/original location. Also, I had to mount the rad as far forward as the mounts allow ( I think I may have shimmed it with a couple washers also) to get enough room between the harmonic balancer and the rad support to get a belt on. The original mounting on the model B was so close it was impossible to get the belts off between the balancer and the rad support. I had to move the rad about 3/16" forward to accommodate belt removal/install. I am hoping that the rad location adjustment won't create more issues than fitting the sheet metal. There was mention of water pump issues but I don't recall doing anything in that regard. Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/69498-just-more-work/#findComment-494798 Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeH Posted April 8, 2022 Share Posted April 8, 2022 Pics please... Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/69498-just-more-work/#findComment-494799 Share on other sites More sharing options...
mowerman Posted April 9, 2022 Share Posted April 9, 2022 Wow I would have thought 350 was a lot bigger …. Bob Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/69498-just-more-work/#findComment-494844 Share on other sites More sharing options...
terry Posted April 9, 2022 Share Posted April 9, 2022 23 hours ago, Licensed to kill said: I used the original B61 front motor mount so the front of the engine pretty much HAS to be in the right/stock/original location. Also, I had to mount the rad as far forward as the mounts allow ( I think I may have shimmed it with a couple washers also) to get enough room between the harmonic balancer and the rad support to get a belt on. The original mounting on the model B was so close it was impossible to get the belts off between the balancer and the rad support. I had to move the rad about 3/16" forward to accommodate belt removal/install. I am hoping that the rad location adjustment won't create more issues than fitting the sheet metal. There was mention of water pump issues but I don't recall doing anything in that regard. Mad dog pretty much summed it up, different crank hub and pulley, and water pump housing and shorter water pump. Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/69498-just-more-work/#findComment-494846 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Freightrain Posted April 9, 2022 Share Posted April 9, 2022 I also can just barely get the belts off my motor. Just enough wiggle room. I think that's normal. You do have to run a 673 balancer and water pump. Quote Larry 1959 B61 Liv'n Large...................... Charter member of the "MACK PACK" Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/69498-just-more-work/#findComment-494861 Share on other sites More sharing options...
doubleclutchinweasel Posted April 12, 2022 Share Posted April 12, 2022 I'm still struggling to understand this one. If the front mount is the same, how could the back interfere...given that all the "differences" are in the pulley/water pump. Would be nice to see both engines in person...and with a tape measure. Signed: Curious Quote "Eagles may soar, but weasels don't get sucked into jet engines." Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/69498-just-more-work/#findComment-495108 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Licensed to kill Posted April 13, 2022 Author Share Posted April 13, 2022 Sorry for the delayed response. I was gone to the mountains snowmobiling for the last trip of the season. I will look it over tomorrow and try to get some pics. I DID notice that he floor needs to be cut out a bit to clear the shifter for the main box and that is preventing the cab from moving forward but it looks like it is up against the motor anyways. Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/69498-just-more-work/#findComment-495143 Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeH Posted April 13, 2022 Share Posted April 13, 2022 The timing covers might be different. I think that's where the front mount grabs the engine. 1 Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/69498-just-more-work/#findComment-495164 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Licensed to kill Posted April 13, 2022 Author Share Posted April 13, 2022 Pretty sure I figured out where the problem lies. Not 100% sure HOW it happened or what needs to be done to fix it but at least I see where I have to work. I checked the front mount and compared it to a stock motor that is still in another chassis and found that the one that I installed (the E6) there is a gap of about 1"-2" from the mount to the front cover whereas the old stock one the mount is right up TO the front cover suggesting that the engine needs to go further back on the front mount. This will also require the balancer to go further on the crank or to will run into the rad support when the engine is moved ahead. I will have to pull the rad and lift the front of the motor, remove the balancer and push the mount further onto the cover then pull the engine ahead to bolt up the mount. Of course this means making new trans mounts again but that is pretty much par for the course. 1 Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/69498-just-more-work/#findComment-495208 Share on other sites More sharing options...
mowerman Posted April 13, 2022 Share Posted April 13, 2022 On 4/12/2022 at 12:38 PM, doubleclutchinweasel said: I'm still struggling to understand this one. If the front mount is the same, how could the back interfere...given that all the "differences" are in the pulley/water pump. Would be nice to see both engines in person...and with a tape measure. Signed: Curious After the photos now I’m confused lol… bob Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/69498-just-more-work/#findComment-495215 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Freightrain Posted April 13, 2022 Share Posted April 13, 2022 I know I used the hub and balancer from my 673. Maybe that is the problem, the E6 is offset enough that it won't work in a B? Quote Larry 1959 B61 Liv'n Large...................... Charter member of the "MACK PACK" Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/69498-just-more-work/#findComment-495220 Share on other sites More sharing options...
terry Posted April 14, 2022 Share Posted April 14, 2022 3 hours ago, Licensed to kill said: Pretty sure I figured out where the problem lies. Not 100% sure HOW it happened or what needs to be done to fix it but at least I see where I have to work. I checked the front mount and compared it to a stock motor that is still in another chassis and found that the one that I installed (the E6) there is a gap of about 1"-2" from the mount to the front cover whereas the old stock one the mount is right up TO the front cover suggesting that the engine needs to go further back on the front mount. This will also require the balancer to go further on the crank or to will run into the rad support when the engine is moved ahead. I will have to pull the rad and lift the front of the motor, remove the balancer and push the mount further onto the cover then pull the engine ahead to bolt up the mount. Of course this means making new trans mounts again but that is pretty much par for the course. I believe that is why you need the water pump housing, water pump and crank hub off the 673 engine, they are all shorter, you said you made the rear mounts, might have them to far one way , moving the engine back into the firewall? terry Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/69498-just-more-work/#findComment-495231 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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