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looks like I’m going to get a new clutch. Took it by shop and they tried adjusting it but couldn’t. This is a Eaton fuller 8LL. They mechanic said it would cost about 3,000 for parts and labor. That sound about right?

I also have noticed a loud rattle/vibration in the higher gears. It quits when I let up on gas. It doesn’t do it all the time but it’s starting to annoy me. What do you guys recommend I do to try and figure out what’s causing this. My driveline right out of the transmission is not timed correctly. It’s a little off so could that be causing it?

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Drive line out of phase, hanger bearing, u joint, input bearing on rear end and if u have air ride, make sure to check ride height. $3000 sounds VERY reasonable for that job. Include machining flywheel? Pilot bearing? Rear seal? Every 8ll I had was noisy as hell. 

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1 hour ago, Dirtymilkman said:

Drive line out of phase, hanger bearing, u joint, input bearing on rear end and if u have air ride, make sure to check ride height. $3000 sounds VERY reasonable for that job. Include machining flywheel? Pilot bearing? Rear seal? Every 8ll I had was noisy as hell. 

yup spot on

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What is the best option for a replacement clutch for durability / price? I paid to have one put between a Series 60 Detroit and a Eaton Super 10 transmission a while back but can't recall what the shop sold me. Is there a major price difference between certain brands and/or does one hold up better than another?

5 hours ago, Dirtymilkman said:

Yes, go Eaton.  Roadforce ones r junk

It’s the only way to go but I wouldn’t recommend buying from a Mack dealer they quoted me 1200 for a clutch for my 96 cl,I bought the exact same one for 7 and Change at the trucks parts store..

Ricky....  are you certain that all adjustment and life is out of the clutch ??  if it is not slipping and if the adjuster is moving,,  run it further,  Just get you r parts ordered, and in stock, so when the time come's, you are not waiting ...  jojo 

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