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Started replacing the Drive axle wheel seals in my G with a RADL 515 axle. When I pulled down the right side, I was surprised to find 2 seals in the hub. One in the normal position and one in the center of the hub separating the inner and outer bearing chambers. It appears that the inner wheel bearing is sealed off from any oil supply other than what is placed in the hub when installing the entire assembly. Is this correct?  The seals are Trostel #'s  T55173   and    T55068.  My old school NAPA dealer searched through all his old catalogs and couldn't cross these over to a current part number. Anybody happen to have current seal part numbers for these?  If not, I'll be off to my local bearing supplier. 

Also, the days are long gone when I could hump on and off a hub and drum assembly by myself. Thought about it the night before and came up with the idea of using my homemade mechanic's seat. I Screwed a couple of plywood slats the seat, ginned up 2 "clips" to bolt the hub to the slats, and used a bottle jack under the axle housing to match the height exactly. The hub and drum assembly slid off easily and safely. Will be able to reinstall easily without damaging the seals.  

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Yeah years ago the inner bearing was packed with grease with a seal in the middle of the hub, the outer was oil fed from the rear end, most guys just elimidated that middle seal and fed both bearings with rearend oil, can't help with the proper seal number if you go that route.    terry:MackLogo:

as far as the inner seal goes...  A year and a half ago I re-sealed a B-61's drive axles..  I did not install new center seals.  I cleaned the axle end of the hubs really good, and just put inner seals in, and I used Mack Gray RTV for the axle caps, and so far no leaks on either side..  Oil is now getting to the outer bearing..  This truck was a working dump truck for 1 year after I did this repair..  now its a museum piece... LOL :) jojo 

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To find my wheel seals, I went online and you can look at an SKF (CR) wheel seal catalog, they have dimensions in there so you can measure your old seal and match it up. Once you get the SKF number you can cross it over to whatever brand you want.

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