2005 Dodge Neon 2.0 timing belt

[1958 F.W.D.]

So my fault.....

Last year we acquired a 2005 Dodge Neon with the 2.0 for Medium. I was not aware that you have to change the timing belt on these at 100,000. Well, the timing belt took a poo at 126,000, fortunately right in front of the house. Yes, it is an interference engine. However, when we crank it, I do not hear any clattering, gnashing or anything else indicating possible cylindrical carnage so I am hoping no valves dropped. I am counting on a few bent ones though.

I figured I would at least pull the head and see if there is any internal carnage and if not I would drop a rebuilt cylinder on with a new belt and water pump. So the question is- anyone ever take one of these 2.0 engines apart, is there anything I need to know? Any special disassembly procedures for the fuel injection or anything or is it all pretty straight forward? 

[tjc transport]

Before ripping it apart, try filling the cylinder with compressed air and listen for leaks..

I had two go at idle that only need a cam reset and new belt installed. 

[Dirtymilkman]

Do you have to take it in and get crank/cam correlation set? I did a PT Cruiser and motor wouldn't run over 2500 rpm til that was done. I honestly would scrap it. Not really worth putting money in because I learned the hard way, they just keep costing you more and more. 

[1958 F.W.D.]

UPDATE:
After watching several youtube videos I learnt myself how to pull the head- what a PITA!! In order to pull the timing belt cover, you have to pull the harmonic balancer and the (3) right hand side engine mounts. Hardest harmonic balancer I ever had to pull, it would not give up. I finally had to sacrifice a Harbor Freight three jaw puller to the God of air impact guns. Soaked that thing in kroil and smashed on it with a 5lb maul for a spell and then put an impact gun to the puller and it finally let loose. Then you have to put a jack under the engine, take the weight off the 3 mounts, pull those bolts and then lower the engine down to get at the first mount through the wheel well. Then jack the engine up, and pull it forward while someone else goes in with a ratchet and socket and gets the other 2 bolts- and out comes the timing belt cover. Oh, and yeah the timing belt has a 5" portion worn down, no teeth. And a bunch of other teeth that are chewed to hell and a bunch of teeth sitting in the bottom of the timing cover. 
 

So we get the cover and the belt off. Pulled the cam gear, unbolted all the head bolts and off it came. No cylinder damage at all. No damage to any valves or stems visible to the naked eye. So I have a buddy price out new parts and labor for re-assembly....reman head. new head bolts, new timing belt and tensioner, new water pump, new serpentine, new hoses (may as well while I am in there) new coolant, new wires/plugs and oil/filter.......$2400 for everything. 

Well. Shit. 

[GA_Dave]

2 hours ago, 1958 F.W.D. said:

UPDATE:
After watching several youtube videos I learnt myself how to pull the head- what a PITA!! In order to pull the timing belt cover, you have to pull the harmonic balancer and the (3) right hand side engine mounts. Hardest harmonic balancer I ever had to pull, it would not give up. I finally had to sacrifice a Harbor Freight three jaw puller to the God of air impact guns. Soaked that thing in kroil and smashed on it with a 5lb maul for a spell and then put an impact gun to the puller and it finally let loose. Then you have to put a jack under the engine, take the weight off the 3 mounts, pull those bolts and then lower the engine down to get at the first mount through the wheel well. Then jack the engine up, and pull it forward while someone else goes in with a ratchet and socket and gets the other 2 bolts- and out comes the timing belt cover. Oh, and yeah the timing belt has a 5" portion worn down, no teeth. And a bunch of other teeth that are chewed to hell and a bunch of teeth sitting in the bottom of the timing cover. 
 

So we get the cover and the belt off. Pulled the cam gear, unbolted all the head bolts and off it came. No cylinder damage at all. No damage to any valves or stems visible to the naked eye. So I have a buddy price out new parts and labor for re-assembly....reman head. new head bolts, new timing belt and tensioner, new water pump, new serpentine, new hoses (may as well while I am in there) new coolant, new wires/plugs and oil/filter.......$2400 for everything. 

Well. Shit. 

It would have been a lot less work and expense to just swap out the 2.0 with one from a reputable junkyard.  I say this as my Challenger sits in the driveway in pieces while I replace the water pump......

[Freightrain]

My niece had an Audi A4, turbo hotrod.  Ya she calls me and it won't start one morning.  Ugh.  Ya, crapped the belt, she didn't know anything about that needing replaced at xxx miles(well past) and last time it was in for service (stealership) they told her nothing.  Guess they wanted to sell her a new car instead( Never happen)?

She took it to a couple places til a service place would touch it.  Lucky for her it only needed a belt, not a head.  She got rid of it shortly after because she was upside down in it with the mileage she puts on it and the real value of it.

[1958 F.W.D.]

On 8/19/2022 at 1:25 AM, GA_Dave said:

It would have been a lot less work and expense to just swap out the 2.0 with one from a reputable junkyard.  I say this as my Challenger sits in the driveway in pieces while I replace the water pump......

No "reputable" yards around here. 

UPDATE: That price that was quoted to me was parts and labor. The price for the parts is about $600

In the absence of any evidence of damage, I am going to reassemble. New head bolts, new water pump, new belts, new tensioner, new plugs, new coil & wires, new thermostat, etc etc etc FULL SEND. 

Now. Where do I find the time? 

Edited August 23, 2022 by 1958 F.W.D.

[GA_Dave]

10 hours ago, 1958 F.W.D. said:

No "reputable" yards around here.

That is sad.  I have several to pick from here.  Years ago, #2 had a Sundance and blew up the little 2.2.  We got one from a local yard for $400 and put it in.  It wouldn't start.  Cranked it without the distributor cap on, the rotor wasn't turning.  Swapped the distributor with the one from the blown engine.  Made no difference.  Apparently, something internal (camshaft) was broken.  Called the yard and was told to bring it back and get another one, which I did, and was also refunded $200.  Second engine ran perfect. 

I'm not one to pay someone to do things I am capable of doing.  BTW, the Challenger is back up and running, cost $6 to fix it.

[1958 F.W.D.]

Casey (SMALL who isn't so small at 11 years old now) and my father in the beginning stages of disassembly. 
 

The timing belt with a 5-inch portion worn down. There's yer issue. 

A very happy boy seeing piston heads. 

After careful, thorough inspection which revealed no evidence of piston/valve contact, we cleaned everything up and started re-assembly. New head bolts, water pump, timing/serpentine/PS belts, new coil/plugs/wires. 

Filled the cups with diesel for 24 hours. Nothing leaked down. 

Casey dipping the new head bolts in oil.

Casey pulling on the torque wrench. 25/50 then one more 1/4 turn. He was able to do them all except the 1/4 turn, not enough arm strength yet. His tightening patter cheat sheet is that paper on the shock tower. 

 

 

 

[1958 F.W.D.]

I tried to post a video of the initial start but I dunno what I am doing (as far as posting videos.) You will just have to take my word that it idled as smooth as the prom queen's thighs. 

[Joey Mack]

Heck, that 11 year old, did more work in those pic's than guys i tried to hire to help me fix trucks...    You Go ! Kiddo...  jojo

[Joey Mack]

It's too bad Mr. Casey isn't close to me..   I have to pull a 454 and Turbo 400 tranny out of a C-10 Silverado..   I sure could use a good mechanic to help me pull it and re-build it..    Jojo