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any noise in 13? is this truck new 2 u? these trans rarely give Main case problems the back section is the weak point! That said do an oil change on the trans and check for pieces if looks ok keep on keepin on ! And keep the oil changed  once a year or two!

Edited by fjh

It will grind a little when it's cold going from low to high on the initial first shift in the morning so I think the synchronizers  are probably starting to get wore which doesn't concern me as much as the rattling noise I'll take a good look at the driveline though 

4 minutes ago, Dieselman350 said:

I've had if for about a year it doesn't seem to do it in high gear but definitely 7th gear 

So the thing is did the noise just start or was it like that when you got the truck? The upper bearings in the these do get some wear over time and they loose there pre load and move around a bit and make some noise They can operate like this for years! That said you don't know the history.....!check the drain plug if good change the oil 75/90 synth see how it goes! That said the model and setup you got there is my favorite lots of room to work standup oil change Yesssss!

Just My opinion!

It only growls in 7th and not 4th also?  Definately make sure the driveline is tight, do you feel the noise in the stick?  Im trying to keep this simple,  sometimes rear ends can send a sound through the driveshaft,  it is a tube...   ok,  keep in touch..  jojo

Found 2 u joints with a little movement so replaced those which seemed to change the noise now I really am leaning towards the front diff now I can make it growl/rattle in almost any gear going slow under load checked both with heat gun after a drive both about 125 I figured one would be hotter but there not but I'm still leaning on rearend 

  • Like 1

'D-Man'   i have an approach...  underneath the rear of the top part of the housing has a 9/16" square plug, or if you have temp sensor then it is 1 1/16" deep chrome socket...  remove it to drain the oil from the top reduction housing.. then take the (4) 9/16 headed bolt's out of the side cover.  Then you will be able to inspect the top reduction gear set..   (Bevel pinion and Bevel gear)  If you see Brinneling on the gear teeth, you may have just found the noise..  if this inspection is good,  we can talk about looking at the power divider.  Do you have auto power divider or a locker?  jojo

  • Like 1

ok, so you have a small air line going to the power divider housing..  No sweat..  still easy to inspect if it goes that far..  let's keep it simple,, refer to my last post.  Are you able to hear the noise in slow speeds under 35 MPH?  if so,,  if you are loaded and on dirt or loose gravel, you can engage the power divider to see if the noise changes or stops..  Don't do this on solid ground or roads above 25 MPH..  also, if your tire wear is mixed , like old tires with barely legal tread and new tires in any position,,  on solid ground,,,, this test may make noise..  I cant really draw a good picture of a good testing area..  but I feel like you may be able to separate the sound from the tranny, to possibly the rear end, since you changed 2 bad u-joints, you are obviously narrowing it down..   jojo

7th gear (hi split) is direct gear in this transmission ( 1:1 )  if it's making noise in direct ?  likely not the transmission. ( this applies to all manual transmissions )   If there's no metal on plugs from the transmission, there's probably nothing wrong with the transmission. Like the guys are saying, drive line or rears is most likely the culprit. 

keep this in mind for future tranny issues...  In most tranny's each gear has 2 positions..  so if you have an issue in a low side gear, the issue may be in the high side same gear stick position..  (barring a rear box synchro issue)  an easy example is a 10 spd..  1-5 is the same gears as 6-10...  same stick positions..  lets say it pops out of 9th,  does it do the same thing in 4th?  same gear position, but different demands on the tranny..  still,,   listen to the gear box..   (sample test here).. truth is... the shift pattern diagram in the truck show's what i'm talking about...   jojo

Edited by Joey Mack
more content needed

The cover on the side of the diff should have a magnet ,check for metal sticking to it .There's always a tiny amount from normal wear,but you shouldn't see chunks.i would drain fluid from front and rear diff.If you've only owned it for a year and never have changed the oil ,now would be a good time.

 

  • Like 1

drain it through a strainer to catch any chunks..  I use a 6" trainer from the dollar store. the magnet plug's and tray will hold peices as R.E.D. said..  jojo

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