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Torque for Dayton rims


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I`m seeing from 150 to 250 ft lbs for the wedges,and some saying not to bother with a torque wrench at all,since there are inconsistencies,eg,thread condition,rust,that vary from hub to hub.Would 200 ft lb be a good number? I`ll be swapping 6 tube rims and tires tomorrow for tubeless.I know to deflate the old tires before loosening any lugs,but this is first time territory for me.Thanks.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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First things first, theres a big difference between split rims and dayton or spoked hubs

The rims the outside piece, even if they are split types of rims you would have more chance of winning the lotto than anything happening while dropping the rim off 

Key board warriors have done so much damage with all their drama and carry on 

You probably have chance of dropping it on your foot or the truck slipping of the jack or stands 

They are no were near as dangerous as people make out are used the world over even today 

 

Paul  

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4 hours ago, Hayseed said:

 

EDIT: One thing I will stress though is ; Loosen But Don't remove the Nuts on the Clamps/Dogs & wack 'em with a Hammer to Loosen the Dogs then remove the Nuts otherwise you may end up wearing dog/Clamp in the face..!!

This  ∆∆∆∆∆∆.

I think that is what the most critical aspect is.  The tires do NOT need to be deflated.  Those clamps will be wedged tight and smacking then loose before removing the nut is the only real danger of taking a dayton rim off.

The thread size for the nut is what you need to know the torque for.  Some are larger then others and this would take more torque.  I never really torqued mine, just the 3/4" impact going around in cross pattern after confirming the rim runs true.  I did watch my local tire shop torque them the one time they put new fronts on.

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Larry

1959 B61 Liv'n Large......................

Charter member of the "MACK PACK"

 

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Someone had a video of an Auzzie man installing a Dayton type rim on a trailer a while back. (he may have been changing a flat)  It was a very detailed simple example of removing and replacing a Dayton  (and correct). It was on a trailer if I remember correctly, but the steps he went through apply to anything. The deflating the tire part ???  a tube type with a split rim isn't something a guy with no experience should be playing with when it comes to changing the tire on the rim.  As far as the mounted tire on a vehicle , that part is the same as a tubeless. !!!! but.... if changing from tube type split rims to tubeless ???  there's a fairly good chance your hardware may change ( wedges, spacer )  and that's not to say the hardware on the truck already might be shot. In which case no torque or tightening will ever hold them on fast. 

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1 hour ago, skydawg said:

I got the right rears off,cleaning the hub facings.Is ok to use any lube or anti seize to make things go on smoother,esp the spacer.Thanks.

Make sure they are nice and clean and free of dirty and grease etc, keep them square and slid them on even

They should be a reasonably neat fit as the spacer holds the inner dual on while you lift the outer on if that makes sense 

 

Paul

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If and when I was changing a Dayton I always used a little block that I would place next to the tire when I was tightening the lug nuts I used a 1/2 air wrench I shot for as true as I could make them when I rotated them. I have seen some jobs that was so bad who ever put the tires and rims on the truck should have been fired. I always loosened the nuts and hit each wedge with my hammer I didn't the first time I changed a tire and the wedge I took the nut off flew about 15 feet just missed me I never made that mistake again.

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9 hours ago, Mark T said:

Someone had a video of an Auzzie man installing a Dayton type rim on a trailer a while back. (he may have been changing a flat)  It was a very detailed simple example of removing and replacing a Dayton  (and correct). It was on a trailer if I remember correctly, but the steps he went through apply to anything. The deflating the tire part ???  a tube type with a split rim isn't something a guy with no experience should be playing with when it comes to changing the tire on the rim.  As far as the mounted tire on a vehicle , that part is the same as a tubeless. !!!! but.... if changing from tube type split rims to tubeless ???  there's a fairly good chance your hardware may change ( wedges, spacer )  and that's not to say the hardware on the truck already might be shot. In which case no torque or tightening will ever hold them on fast. 

This one mark..??

 

 

"Be who you are and say what you feel...
Because those that matter...
don't mind...
And those that mind....
don't matter." -

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sure glad it was mentioned about leaving nuts on but loose  and the big hammer smack. have seen wedges fly a long way, it was a "test" took the nuts off stood  to the side and railed the rim with a sledge' YES they do fly at great speed and force. 

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  • 1 year later...

I WOULD HIGHLY RECOMMEND DEFLATING TUBE TYPE TIRES THAT HAVE A LOCKRING, I HAVE PERSONALLY  SEEN A LOCKRING STICK TO THE SPACER AND THE CARNAGE IT CAUSED. TUBELESS TIRES DO NOT NEED THE SAME PRACTICE BUT DO NOT REMOVE THE NUTS COMPLETELY BEFORE THE PRESSURE HAS BEEN RELEASED OFF THE CLAMPS

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The only time I ever saw a problem with tube type, the truck sat for years and the inside rim got almost rusted through. When the guy started loosening the nuts the rest of the rim let go and sent shrapnel everywhere.

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Ok I’m not talking about split rims since in this day and age they are beyond rare,but for tube type two piece and three piece rims it would be in your best interest to deflate before removal and only fully inflate after installing on the truck..just my 2cent.. safety first..

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3 hours ago, 70mackMB said:

Where was this picture taken, any idea? The picture itself is funny but look at the kids shirt. What's with that?    .....Hippy

 

I reverse image searched and saw the earliest it was posted was on Reddit in 2019. No info on where it was taken at all. 

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