Mark T Posted August 1 Share Posted August 1 That's an early picture of butajegg . It was taken to show his experience in the transportation industry. 1 Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/70320-torque-for-dayton-rims/page/2/#findComment-556275 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted August 1 Share Posted August 1 I thought he looked familiar.. Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/70320-torque-for-dayton-rims/page/2/#findComment-556276 Share on other sites More sharing options...
HarryS Posted August 1 Share Posted August 1 Wasn't there someone on here a few years ago that had an open rim come apart when he took the wheel off? I think I remember it was a trailer tire and it banged up his knee. He was from out west, Montana, Wyoming I think. Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/70320-torque-for-dayton-rims/page/2/#findComment-556278 Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrsmackpaul Posted August 2 Share Posted August 2 Yes there was many years ago on hear that a tubeless rim came apart, was rusted out and gave a decent whack on the knee As far as the letting air out before mounting or removing from the hub I think on a steer this would make it more dangerous as the removable section is mow facing you Once a split/demountable rim is inflated and the beed is locked in they are as safe as a tubeless Possibly even safer, a lot more has to go wrong on tubed tyre and rim for them to come apart than a tubeless rim once a tube rim is inflated and locked together Paul 1 Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/70320-torque-for-dayton-rims/page/2/#findComment-556293 Share on other sites More sharing options...
MACKS Posted August 2 Share Posted August 2 14 hours ago, mrsmackpaul said: Yes there was many years ago on hear that a tubeless rim came apart, was rusted out and gave a decent whack on the knee As far as the letting air out before mounting or removing from the hub I think on a steer this would make it more dangerous as the removable section is mow facing you Once a split/demountable rim is inflated and the beed is locked in they are as safe as a tubeless Possibly even safer, a lot more has to go wrong on tubed tyre and rim for them to come apart than a tubeless rim once a tube rim is inflated and locked together Paul 14 hours ago, mrsmackpaul said: Yes there was many years ago on hear that a tubeless rim came apart, was rusted out and gave a decent whack on the knee As far as the letting air out before mounting or removing from the hub I think on a steer this would make it more dangerous as the removable section is mow facing you Once a split/demountable rim is inflated and the beed is locked in they are as safe as a tubeless Possibly even safer, a lot more has to go wrong on tubed tyre and rim for them to come apart than a tubeless rim once a tube rim is inflated and locked together Paul Just my 2cent,but that all depends on the condition of the rim and the lock rings,rust is the culprit and will keep them from seating correctly..New of a guy working the landfill,inflating a three piece rim,whacked it with a sledge,the ring blew off hit him between the eyes,last thing he ever saw,killed on the spot.. 1 Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/70320-torque-for-dayton-rims/page/2/#findComment-556315 Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrsmackpaul Posted August 2 Share Posted August 2 If every alleged person that died from a wheel coming apart was true, the worlds population would be at least half I must have been knocking around the luckiest people on earth as I have never known anyone thats had a rim come apart, this inculdes the tyre service in town that I have never even seen a tyre cage on the premises Anyway, I guess a ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure, stay safe out there Or people just learn how to do things properly Maybe we should remove all the warning labels and just let mature take it's course As for torque on the nuts that hold the cleats on, I reckon Swishman has shared the actual Kenworth procedure and it isnt anywhere near as tight as we might think I've done some searching and so far found some directions on spiders from Swishman Im sure there's more but you get the drift Tight enough they don't come off and not to tight that they strip the thread And check every few miles after having a rim off, 3 or 4 times and check they are tight This isn't exactly rocket science Paul Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/70320-torque-for-dayton-rims/page/2/#findComment-556338 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff Weeks Posted August 3 Share Posted August 3 9 hours ago, MACKS said: Just my 2cent,but that all depends on the condition of the rim and the lock rings,rust is the culprit and will keep them from seating correctly..New of a guy working the landfill,inflating a three piece rim,whacked it with a sledge,the ring blew off hit him between the eyes,last thing he ever saw,killed on the spot.. Smacking any rim with a sledge, is abuse! Smacking a tubeless rim is no better. RIms don't need nor should they be abused and expect to take abuse. Would you take a mounted aluminum rim/tire combo that is inflated and smack it with a sledge on the bead area? Would you expect it not to break a apart? Why would you do that with any rim? At the minimum you make a stress riser in the rim. As far as I am concerned, the Firestone RH 5 deg wheel is the only really questionable one, but even on those, if you really know what your are doing, you can separate the ones that shouldn't be place back in service. There are many better designs than the FIrestone RH 5deg, (semi drop center wheel) that I would not use them on my stuff. One afternoon, I serviced 5 of the Firestone wheels, out of the 5 only one could possibly be re-used. Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/70320-torque-for-dayton-rims/page/2/#findComment-556343 Share on other sites More sharing options...
MACKS Posted August 3 Share Posted August 3 11 hours ago, Geoff Weeks said: Smacking any rim with a sledge, is abuse! Smacking a tubeless rim is no better. RIms don't need nor should they be abused and expect to take abuse. Would you take a mounted aluminum rim/tire combo that is inflated and smack it with a sledge on the bead area? Would you expect it not to break a apart? Why would you do that with any rim? At the minimum you make a stress riser in the rim. As far as I am concerned, the Firestone RH 5 deg wheel is the only really questionable one, but even on those, if you really know what your are doing, you can separate the ones that shouldn't be place back in service. There are many better designs than the FIrestone RH 5deg, (semi drop center wheel) that I would not use them on my stuff. One afternoon, I serviced 5 of the Firestone wheels, out of the 5 only one could possibly be re-used. Every tire shop I’ve been to would hit the rim with a sledge mostly on the light side while inflating to insure the lock rings were set correctly,I’m not ,saying it’s the right thing to do but I’ve seen a a lot,I have tubeless tires now so thankfully don’t have to mess with them anymore,Stay Safe.. Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/70320-torque-for-dayton-rims/page/2/#findComment-556352 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff Weeks Posted August 3 Share Posted August 3 I've seen a lot of stupid stuff, some of it done by those who should know better, much of it done by people who never were trained. There is never a good reason to hit a rim with a sledge, enough get hit by poor aim when a tire hammer is used to break the bead loose. I know my tires are mounted and the lock ring is seated with about 20 PSI in the tire! The rim is cleaned of rust and the tire lubed with rubber lube. If you do the job correctly, you have the core out and put 20 psi in and can watch the bead expand over the lock ring, feel or see the ring gap get smaller, all before there is enough stored energy to hurt you, then you let the air out so the tube can work out any wrinkles, then put the core in and inflate. If the lock ring isn't seated, hitting it with a hammer is more likely to make it come apart than go together. It is just plain wrong! 2 Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/70320-torque-for-dayton-rims/page/2/#findComment-556353 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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