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I bet 30-40 Amps...  I suggest a separate circuit, with a circuit breaker, or Maxi fuse..   Also,  be sure the control switch can handle the amp's and make sure what is plugged in has a tight connection, so that heat is not generated by a loose connection on a high amp. circuit..  I'm sure you have replaced a melted heater fan switch or a Ford headlight switch in the past?  Hope for more opinion's on this one... jojo

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no..  hook positive to ground, and neg to the line that goes to batt. neg.  I have a positive ground truck, and it just seems to me that it is just simply reversed..  Have you searched some of these questions on the web?  I did a little research, and that's how I came up with my simple thought's.. to me 'positive ground' is an oxymoron...  Basically the chassis carries the voltage, and the ground is direct to the neg. on the battery...   I hope others will add to this, and If I am wrong, please accept my apology...  Maybe Glenn or Mechaholic,  V, F,,  heck too many to mention...   :)  jojo

sorry couldn't reply sooner; spent the night in hospital emergency room till 1:30 am. home and doing a little bit better. the answer has been given above the main issue is how an appliance is  fasten to the truck. has to be insulated . CB's back in the day neg ground put in pos ground units had to be secured by rubber ties etc. some older brockways also had pos ground if memory is correct. far as the heater, I would install the screw style red/black connectors on lower dash, set up where put the wire end through the terminal hole then tighten connector . 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Will not use the cigarette circuit to power it, will hard wire it with the wiring reversed and attach it to the dash with velcron. there is no metal in the base of the heater.  More later.

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