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On 10/18/2022 at 2:52 PM, Onyx610 said:

I like them too for all the same reasons. I really like them on MPs for the extra filtration on that sensitive/expensive fuel system. 

I like it too ! ANY filter prior to that goofy Volvo setup is a bonus! This is one of the things we need to add to  our growing list of Betterments for the V engine! Forgot to add the electric Primer  Pump to the list too! Should be mandatory on all fuel systems these days! I'm feeling feisty this morning want shit to get fixed!😂

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8 hours ago, Rsc1717 said:

One more thing I noticed ,

For  some reason exhaust temp not rising during regen . Seems like regen never ended or couldn’t get thru . Can cups cause problems with regens . 

Usually we get over temp on the T2 temp sensor and the regen kicks out when the injector cups are leaking . However , going over some old notes , yes , the cups can cause all sorts of regen issues. 

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 11/1/2022 at 8:35 AM, Mackpro said:

I vote cups as well. Unless no other visible leaks or damp spots  in the fuel piping it’s always cups. Only 4 other things I have ever seen cause hard starting. 1 , fuel  pressure relief valve that screwed in front of head . The updated one is really rounded on the end , the old style is flat all the way out to the end , takes a 7/8” wrench to replace. Yours being a 14 should have the new one . I had a 13 year model with the old one a couple weeks ago though. 2, fuel filter stand hand primer pump leaking when you pump on it. 3, tandem pump leaking at weep hole. The power steering pump and fuel supply pump are bolted together and there is a weep hole between them , if this is really wet or fuel dripping  them it can cause hard starting , usually on trucks with 650,000plus miles. 4 , plastic fuel line connector at filter stand transition. The plastic fuel line from the fuel tanks quick connects to a fitting on a bracket on the filter stand. I’ve seen the factory zip tie the fuel lines so tight that in a hard pull the engine tilts and it pulls the fuel line back slightly and sucks air . Also a cracked plastic fuel fitting at fuel tank that was cracked by running over a deer. Now after all that is said. If your engine starts but dies after a few seconds then it could be leaking reman injectiors or a bad oil control valve for the engine brake . 

Ok Mack pro I found a small leak I believe it is where the power steering pump and fuel are together, I was adjusting my clutch and saw it it’s on the driver side by transmission. Would this be causing hard starts . So you mentioned their is a weep hole we’re this two attach . How could I go ok about fixing this . 

25 minutes ago, Rsc1717 said:

Ok Mack pro I found a small leak I believe it is where the power steering pump and fuel are together, I was adjusting my clutch and saw it it’s on the driver side by transmission. Would this be causing hard starts . So you mentioned their is a weep hole we’re this two attach . How could I go ok about fixing this . 

New fuel transfer pump required maybe! these have been known to fail! As with everything Volvo IT AINT CHEAP!

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If it’s coming out of the weep hole the tandem pump assembly needs replaced. That should not cause hard starts as it’s before the filters. The filter stand has anti drain back valves in the fuel filter nipples. 

Since more info is coming out with every post, I’m gonna suggest you put a tandem pump on it and see where you are at. Sounds like it needs it anyway if it’s coming out of the weep hole. If that doesn't fix it then prepare to get your wallet out. 

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I believe there was a service bulletin on replacing the complete tandem pump assembly when there was leakage at the tandem pump weep hole. I replaced one on an older MP with 800,000+ miles on it . Where the fuel pump bolted to the powers steering pump was chewed up inside where they connected. It was one of the few times where I pulled the injectors on a hard starting complaint and it wasn’t a  cups  issue. 

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Ok guys so taking it to the shop tomorrow for check up and apparently cups and injectors will see what they say . Mean while a code popped up p0401 and before I parked it noticed what seemed diesel in my exhaust could all this be due to cups and injectors or this a separate issue guys . It was leaking out behind the turbo was dripping form the flex exhaust tube on the bolts on it had a drip of it . I want to say its diesel my smell is not all their got the cold and was stuffed, definitely not oil . Could it be that the 7 th injector is overspraying or what . 

On the P0401 code, it’s for low EGR flow. On a MP8 or D13 the flow is measured by the EGR differential sensor which is mounted on the vertical Venturi pipe on the RH side of engine on the outlet side of the EGR cooler. There are 2 holes in the Venturi pipe that the sensor sits over and reads EGR flow and pressure. Naturally this is soot/exhaust that flows through the pipe/sensor. Over time the 2 holes soot up and clog and restrict flow and pressure to the sensor. The engine ECM sees low flow and commands the EGR valve to open farther to reach the target EGR flow and pressure. This happens slowly over time so for awhile your pumping excessive amounts of dirty exhaust back into the engine which causes DPF over sooting and frequent regen  requests. Finally the P0401 sets. There are several variations on the EGR differential sensor and Venturi pipe.  The newest style has large holes in the Venturi pipe to keep from clogging. You can remove the sensor and  clean out it the holes with compressed air/blow gun. The diesel smell smoke from under the cab is probably a leaking exhaust flex pipe and the engine doing or finishing a regen. Seen this many times while doing a parked regen.  I’ll attach pics on the EGR diff sensor later. 

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https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=AsPtct6bw3M

Here is a video that explains cleaning the ports. Your EGR diff sensor and Venturi may look different but all work the same way and port clogging still happens to the newest versions. The ports are not drilled straight through so compressed air or running something flexible through it is the only way to clean it out. Mack recommends the old pipe cleaners that the old tobacco pipe smoker used to use years ago. 

On the early version Venturi pipe , the pedestal that the sensor bolts to can be removed from the Venturi pipe itself. Four small screws hold the pedestal ( that sometimes break) to the pipe. Removing the pedestal makes it easier to clean . Here’s a pic of the Venturi pipe with pedestal removed, you can see the bottom hole clogged solid . This caused low EGR flow codes and daily regen requests. 

E7D7F0B3-F227-46A3-AAB8-985D0331E97B.png

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Truck is in the shop and their saying injectors are showing that their good but bad cups was their outcome for all This issues  they did a injector cut out test and showing that their pullinggood . What would you guys recommend pulling injectors and just doing cups or just trowing a whole six pack . 

20 hours ago, Rsc1717 said:

Truck is in the shop and their saying injectors are showing that their good but bad cups was their outcome for all This issues  they did a injector cut out test and showing that their pullinggood . What would you guys recommend pulling injectors and just doing cups or just trowing a whole six pack . 

Cups and injectors is Best! Just cups an ok solution as long as THEY know what they are looking at! just my opinion.

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Decided to go on and do job myself shop wanted 8k plus a week or more of downtime I had tool in hand so decided to give it a shot . Anything else I need to look for while I’m already their . Or any recommendations on installation or torque downs other then what’s already in the web guys . 

There’s one more tool you may need to get. Do you have Premium Tech Tool? Your gonna need it for the injector trim codes. Other then that go ahead and get started a handful of us will be here to help you as you need it. 

Edited by Onyx610
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