Full Floater Posted October 1, 2022 Share Posted October 1, 2022 Will be swapping a good running ENDT 675 235hp from a truck with a bad body, into another chassis that's already equipped with a 235, but is worn out. Both are 107 6 speed trucks. The donor engine runs like a top, but I would like to re-seal or service anything that should get done when the engine is out of the truck. Rear main, oil pan etc. Im new to swapping these engines, can anyone give me a quick "list" of things I should look at while the engine is out and easily serviced? It will be getting a new clutch while it's out, jacobs 675 jake heads (overhead adj obviously) and fresh injectors, hoses etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mechohaulic Posted October 1, 2022 Share Posted October 1, 2022 what you do to it would depend largely on ;; how did it run, sound before removal from chassis. new clutch is being installed. mileage on it , blow-by are factors. other then clutch,rear seal anything else can be done in chassis. runs like a top , shouldn't need internals. a coat of paint would be only item done easier out of frame . LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Full Floater Posted October 2, 2022 Author Share Posted October 2, 2022 Are there any leak prone seals or anything that would be easier addressed while the engine is out? It's going into a Western Mack, so narrower frame rails make a few areas like around the compressor and power steering pump, difficult to access. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted October 2, 2022 Share Posted October 2, 2022 IMO, without ever doing a swap like yours.... Shouldnt you just take everything off, clean/buff it and reseal it? even if you have to cut your own gaskets.. I am probably stating some obvious stuff, but it is what I do... I have had a few older units apart recently, and I do just that... remove all covers, used and un-used, and make gaskets.. A great RTV can be your friend.. Mack Gray for example.. jojo 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mechohaulic Posted October 2, 2022 Share Posted October 2, 2022 major factor would be 1-are you doing this for yourself or as in JOJO's builds most /all are for customers. with the high quality workmanship from JOJO a customers engine receives a total overhaul. if this unit is for yourself, common sense would play important roll. not knowing mileage/hrs on donor then time and $$$$ would be an important consider. understand the original question about easy access to possible future problems while out of frame . air tanks from donor show oil etc. time frame for getting unit back and running would make a difference to how far you rip and tear. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted October 2, 2022 Share Posted October 2, 2022 Mech... you are too kind........... Good points on easy access.. My thoughts were for anything that may leak.. Certainly, he need's to know the Health of the engine.. He did say it is a good runner... as we all know.... these projects, become bigger as we look deep or behind stuff.. anyway.... If its a good runner... re-seal the ''bolt-on's '' and run it.. Of course if he has a crystal ball,, when He's done with it, he can rent it out to me, and then I will sub-let it to the next guy... and so-on... jojo 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Full Floater Posted October 2, 2022 Author Share Posted October 2, 2022 (edited) Yes, I think re-sealing as much as possible is the ticket. Front and rear mains, timing cover manifold gaskets? oil pain. Not the head gaskets. does the oil cooler have any seals? It runs and starts great, no blow by, no leaks, no oil in air tanks that I tell. about 8000hrs on it. 320,000miles or so. It hasn't been worked as hard as some. I could just throw it in as is, but i'd like to do a little better then that. Freshen it up a bit, and bump up the reliability factor. This is a project for ME to use, not doing this on a customers truck. It's being made into a single axle rollback truck and will work daily. With me driving it, no cowboys. Edited October 2, 2022 by Full Floater 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted October 2, 2022 Share Posted October 2, 2022 Once again... you got this.. I assume you have a really good skill set, so these P.M. item's will be in your zone.. leave the heads alone if you are confident in their performance.. and the engines performance.. Just keep up with us, post some pics and enjoy the "Like's" .... jojo 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Full Floater Posted January 9, 2023 Author Share Posted January 9, 2023 (edited) Does anyone have any insight as to what crank main seals I should order? In particular, the rear? And is there a special service tool needed to install the seal on these? I have done many a crank seal, but never on a Mack 675....so just want to make sure this guy goes in right. Edited January 9, 2023 by Full Floater Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Freightrain Posted January 9, 2023 Share Posted January 9, 2023 Seems to me it is a metal seal. My 237 wasn't leaking and I just crossed my fingers and didn't mess with it. So far, so good. Quote Larry 1959 B61 Liv'n Large...................... Charter member of the "MACK PACK" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted January 9, 2023 Share Posted January 9, 2023 Forgive me, but is a 675 still an E-6? Like an ENDT 673? If so, I bought a rear main seal tool for both E-7 and E-6, from Tillmantool.com. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted January 9, 2023 Share Posted January 9, 2023 (edited) Here is some info on the seal installer.. I have several tools from this company.. Monaco tools.com,,, tool #50112-A.... $595.00. Edited January 9, 2023 by Joey Mack Pore cell fone sperring Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mechohaulic Posted January 9, 2023 Share Posted January 9, 2023 another tech advancement by sounds. rear main seal use to be a piece of babit . now there was a challenge; rolling that into the rear seal housing. trial and error in/out till it was perfect. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mechohaulic Posted January 9, 2023 Share Posted January 9, 2023 3 minutes ago, Joey Mack said: Here is some info on the seal installer.. I had several tools from this company.. Monaco tools.com,,, tool #50112-A.... $595.00. times have changed . $600.oo for a tool !! i could justify it being in your work JoJo, a customers vehicle has to be right and the tool will be used more then once. a single use ;;look to borrow/rent one. or piece of pipe right diameter drill three hole on welded cap end so it bolts to crank for square pull on install. glad I'm out of the tool buying need. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted January 9, 2023 Share Posted January 9, 2023 Yes sir Mech. it sure is a lot of money for the tool, if you may not use it again.. The advantage of the tool, is that it can install a wear ring as well as the seal, and set it to the proper depth.. if a wear ring is not needed, I would say you could make a tool to set the seal in nice and straight.. Jojo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Full Floater Posted January 9, 2023 Author Share Posted January 9, 2023 2 hours ago, mechohaulic said: another tech advancement by sounds. rear main seal use to be a piece of babit . now there was a challenge; rolling that into the rear seal housing. trial and error in/out till it was perfect. Yes, the manual that I have, shows and describes this process. I hadn't seen it before and it scared me haha. It also shows a lip style seal and states there are a few different options. I try to acquire the parts I need prior to tearing into something but maybe I should tear into this and find out exactly what is in there. OR just leave it alone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Full Floater Posted January 9, 2023 Author Share Posted January 9, 2023 (edited) 2 hours ago, Joey Mack said: Forgive me, but is a 675 still an E-6? Like an ENDT 673? If so, I bought a rear main seal tool for both E-7 and E-6, from Tillmantool.com. Sure seems as if a lot of parts interchange between the E6....not sure exactly what's what with that. Edited January 9, 2023 by Full Floater Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Freightrain Posted January 9, 2023 Share Posted January 9, 2023 26 minutes ago, Full Floater said: Yes, the manual that I have, shows and describes this process. I hadn't seen it before and it scared me haha. It also shows a lip style seal and states there are a few different options. I try to acquire the parts I need prior to tearing into something but maybe I should tear into this and find out exactly what is in there. OR just leave it alone And the reason I left mine alone. Lol. Can of worms I didn't want to open. Quote Larry 1959 B61 Liv'n Large...................... Charter member of the "MACK PACK" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted January 9, 2023 Share Posted January 9, 2023 Did it show the procedure to set the run-out on the flywheel housing? I wish I was smarter about E-6's.. I think the seal housing is seperate from the flywheel housing. Which may make it easier to install the new style rear mains.. then you can install the seal housing..... I was wondering if you should check run-out on the flywheel housing first while the crank hub is out in the open, then do the rear main seal.. I wonder what the Dog Pound thinks about that?? jojo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post theakerstwo Posted January 9, 2023 Popular Post Share Posted January 9, 2023 5 hours ago, mechohaulic said: another tech advancement by sounds. rear main seal use to be a piece of babit . now there was a challenge; rolling that into the rear seal housing. trial and error in/out till it was perfect. lead wire 4 Quote glenn akers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Full Floater Posted January 9, 2023 Author Share Posted January 9, 2023 6 minutes ago, theakerstwo said: lead wire That's the stuff. Now is the protocol to update the lead wire...if it hasn't already been done, to a new style? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mechohaulic Posted January 9, 2023 Share Posted January 9, 2023 seems to me ; the crank hub is the same with or without the rear seal housing installed= based on the dinosaur days (my time slot ) . dial indicator mounts to the crank hub which is extended out from seal housing. the 1/8th + - extension is where the flywheel rest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theakerstwo Posted January 10, 2023 Share Posted January 10, 2023 On the old engines that used the lead wire on the crank the crank had a slinger for throwing the oil out and that is what kelp the oil from leaking but the lead wire seal was only a dust seal.We pull the cover off ever time we did a clutch and rolled a now wire in the cover.A later seal cover could be used there but the seal was a very narrow seal because the crank was short there as a sealing area. 2 Quote glenn akers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Full Floater Posted January 10, 2023 Author Share Posted January 10, 2023 16 hours ago, theakerstwo said: On the old engines that used the lead wire on the crank the crank had a slinger for throwing the oil out and that is what kelp the oil from leaking but the lead wire seal was only a dust seal.We pull the cover off ever time we did a clutch and rolled a now wire in the cover.A later seal cover could be used there but the seal was a very narrow seal because the crank was short there as a sealing area. Is the later seal a preferable replacement? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theakerstwo Posted January 10, 2023 Share Posted January 10, 2023 If i remember correctly That was a replacement with a later seal and housing with that crank.This has been 50 years since they were built. Quote glenn akers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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