Full Floater Posted January 13, 2023 Author Share Posted January 13, 2023 (edited) This is the (upside down) part number off of the Mack branded rear main seal. Appears to be the lip type seal, not the lead seal. This one is a little oily (I cleaned it for the pic) so I guess I will be replacing it. Looks like there is a wear ring on the crank that someone pounded on with a drift.. You can see the marks. I haven't looked close enough at it yet to confirm if that's a wear ring, but im going to assume so. Looks like they are still available here and there. Hopefully with the plastic install sleeve. I don't have the $700 install tool however..... Edited January 13, 2023 by Full Floater Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted January 13, 2023 Share Posted January 13, 2023 Looks like a wear ring to me.. they are soft, so simple careful methods can remove it.. Don't tell anybody..... But I have used a very sharp wood chisel to cut into it before, once it loosens up you can use a needle nose to pull it off.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mechohaulic Posted January 13, 2023 Share Posted January 13, 2023 just a thought from an ole man. i've found that using a FLAT punch on the wear ring ; tapping it in a number of spots as to expand the wear ring it will slide off. have also used the sharp chisel attack. sometimes the chisel sinks deeper than anticipated. have filled the resulting crease in crank hub with (back in the day) permatex . 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Full Floater Posted January 13, 2023 Author Share Posted January 13, 2023 Those were EXACTLY my thoughts on the wear ring removal!! Glad to hear our thoughts are alike! Installing the seal is what has me a bit concerned, without the tooling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted January 13, 2023 Share Posted January 13, 2023 (edited) can you make a flat plate with a few holes in it and evenly take it up with bolts to push the wear ring on til its flush, then use the flywheel to recess the wear ring.. I beleive the flywheel fits over the crank hub just a bit around 1/32nd " .. anyone else ever done that? I have on an E-7 in a pinch.. Edited January 15, 2023 by Joey Mack poor sperring.. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theakerstwo Posted January 13, 2023 Share Posted January 13, 2023 To remove it i myself have many times used a torch with a long cold blaze and melt but not blow it into.Dont hurt crank and to install i heat wear ring on a crank that i dont have the tool ,with a long blaze from a torch and start it on then as Joey said push it on with the flywheel.By heating it a little you can push in on but you dont know how much so use the flywheel.I have the tool for front and rear of a mack. Quote glenn akers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Full Floater Posted January 14, 2023 Author Share Posted January 14, 2023 3 hours ago, Joey Mack said: can you make a flat plate with a few holes in it an d even take it up with bolts to push the wear ring on til its flush, then use the flywheel to recess the wear ring.. I beleive the flywheel fits over the crank hub just a bit around 1/32nd " .. anyone else ever done that? I have on an E-7 in a pinch.. Now that's an idea!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Full Floater Posted January 14, 2023 Author Share Posted January 14, 2023 I ordered 2 seal/wear ring kits in case I mess one up haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted January 14, 2023 Share Posted January 14, 2023 It wouldnt hurt to apply a thin bead of RTV to the inside of the wear ring, then just wipe off the excess after its installed.. You got this.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fjh Posted January 14, 2023 Share Posted January 14, 2023 23 hours ago, mechohaulic said: just a thought from an ole man. i've found that using a FLAT punch on the wear ring ; tapping it in a number of spots as to expand the wear ring it will slide off. have also used the sharp chisel attack. sometimes the chisel sinks deeper than anticipated. have filled the resulting crease in crank hub with (back in the day) permatex . OTC T30 tire bar works best just the right hook angle but on e6 you need to be careful where you pry the seal housing is aluminum pry next to a bolt! works on E9 E7 E6 just be careful with aluminum bell housings! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Full Floater Posted January 15, 2023 Author Share Posted January 15, 2023 4 hours ago, fjh said: OTC T30 tire bar works best just the right hook angle but on e6 you need to be careful where you pry the seal housing is aluminum pry next to a bolt! works on E9 E7 E6 just be careful with aluminum bell housings! Could it be taken off with the seal housing removed? And just to confirm, the seal gets installed into the housing "prior" to installing over the crank, correct? And is RTV adequate for a seal housing sealant or is there a gasket needed? Fjh....I see you are from BC? Me to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Joey Mack Posted January 15, 2023 Popular Post Share Posted January 15, 2023 yes with seal housing removed.. yes to seal installed into the housing.. RTV on the seal is not recommended due to the red or green sealant coating on the seal, however..... you can use your professional judgment on that... also,,,, since you ar removing the seal housing.. I have also tapped on the wear ring with a small hammer to make a flat spot on the wear ring, and this will loosen the ring enough to pull it off with a pick tool.. just hit the ring and not the crank.. seal housing has a gasket.. Mack Gray RTV is your friend... jojo 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post theakerstwo Posted January 15, 2023 Popular Post Share Posted January 15, 2023 I like the Mack Gray RTV. 2 1 Quote glenn akers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fjh Posted January 15, 2023 Share Posted January 15, 2023 1 hour ago, Full Floater said: Could it be taken off with the seal housing removed? And just to confirm, the seal gets installed into the housing "prior" to installing over the crank, correct? And is RTV adequate for a seal housing sealant or is there a gasket needed? Fjh....I see you are from BC? Me to. Yup to both! If you are going to do it this way follow Joe’s instructions there ! I’m am an island guy! I suggest you put the wiper ring on before you install the seal housing small amount of silicone on the crank thin skim! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Full Floater Posted January 17, 2023 Author Share Posted January 17, 2023 Anyone ever put a main seal in the freezer prior to install in the housing, to shrink the OD of the seal to ease install? Just curious Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Full Floater Posted February 3, 2023 Author Share Posted February 3, 2023 Just an update. This is the rear main seal and wear ring kit that I purchased. Fitment was perfect. Heated the wear sleeve up and it slid over the crank flange with little effort and cooled to a tight fit. Froze the rear main seal and was able to get it seated fully into the housing without using the special service seal tool. https://www.woodlineparts.com/products/pai-ekt-3800-mack-57gc186a-rear-seal-and-wear-ring-kit-made-in-usa?_pos=1&_sid=5edee4cc7&_ss=r 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post fjh Posted February 3, 2023 Popular Post Share Posted February 3, 2023 1 hour ago, Full Floater said: Just an update. This is the rear main seal and wear ring kit that I purchased. Fitment was perfect. Heated the wear sleeve up and it slid over the crank flange with little effort and cooled to a tight fit. Froze the rear main seal and was able to get it seated fully into the housing without using the special service seal tool. https://www.woodlineparts.com/products/pai-ekt-3800-mack-57gc186a-rear-seal-and-wear-ring-kit-made-in-usa?_pos=1&_sid=5edee4cc7&_ss=r Good job bro never tried doing either of those methods nice to know it worked! Just a side note the fly wheel will push the wear ring in a tad so make sure your seal is in deep enough that it doesn't rub the dust lip! the other worry is the wear ring being heated you would have no sealant under the ring! we had one of these cause a three time re and re in the worst model flat fender RD 12 speed due to the ring slipping on the crank once the engine warmed up due to a poor wiper ring install! Just sayin! 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Full Floater Posted February 3, 2023 Author Share Posted February 3, 2023 (edited) 1 hour ago, fjh said: Good job bro never tried doing either of those methods nice to know it worked! Just a side note the fly wheel will push the wear ring in a tad so make sure your seal is in deep enough that it doesn't rub the dust lip! the other worry is the wear ring being heated you would have no sealant under the ring! we had one of these cause a three time re and re in the worst model flat fender RD 12 speed due to the ring slipping on the crank once the engine warmed up due to a poor wiper ring install! Just sayin! Hmmmmm.....good point on the sealant. The manual did state to heat the ring to 400*f and made no mention of sealant.. Edited February 3, 2023 by Full Floater Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Full Floater Posted February 3, 2023 Author Share Posted February 3, 2023 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fjh Posted February 3, 2023 Share Posted February 3, 2023 5 hours ago, Full Floater said: I think you'll be fine the heat install is probably a good thing as it will likely shrink tight! the proper tool for this pushes the wiper and the seal in one swoop! The ring will be pushed in by the flywheel as long as the dust lip clears the flywheel all will be good! Back in the day they had a rather useless ring installer had four adjustable tabs on it for installing it the way you have done! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted February 3, 2023 Share Posted February 3, 2023 Good call FJH.. I do know that the outer oil seal lip needs to be recessed over an 1/8" from the end of the crank shaft. The overlap of the fly wheel will grab the seal lip, and when you rotate the engine, it will tear it off.. You can measure the depth of the flywheel recess to determine a good seal depth. Jojo 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Full Floater Posted February 3, 2023 Author Share Posted February 3, 2023 I do recall the seal being recessed a fair bit. I didn't measure it. The flywheel and clutch are assembled now. Now, do I need to pull it apart to put a sealant under the wear ring? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted February 3, 2023 Share Posted February 3, 2023 no.. you saw the condition of the crank.. If it was perfect.... 'roll-on'.. or ... do what you think you need to do... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Full Floater Posted February 3, 2023 Author Share Posted February 3, 2023 4 minutes ago, Joey Mack said: no.. you saw the condition of the crank.. If it was perfect.... 'roll-on'.. or ... do what you think you need to do... The crank looked good, to my naked eye, and the sleeve is sure tight after cooling down, so I "think" it should be leak free 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Full Floater Posted March 21, 2023 Author Share Posted March 21, 2023 Well, the engine is now in, running and looking good. No leaks. In the final stages of buttoning everything up. Im at clutch adjustment time. I got the 1/2'' between the throw-out bearing and clutch brake set, now im needing to adjust freeplay in the linkage/cable. There is this style linkage on the bellhousing. Which my other Macks don't have. There appears to be some adjustments that can be made with it. I figured id chime in here before I start messing with it, to see if there is a proper procedure. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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