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235 Swap


Full Floater

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  • 2 months later...

3 months later, getting back to it, the clutch is adjusted with 1/2'' +/- between the throw out bearing and the new clutch brake,  pedal free travel about 2''

I cannot get the clutch to disengage even if I adjust +/- on the kwik adjust and/or linkage.  I've tried adjusting it both ways and adjusting the linkage several times, to no avail.  Everything is adjusted to spec again before I move on.  The trans just grinds as I try to put it into gear and will not mesh.   The clutch discs went in the correct way, line up tool used to align it and new pilot bearing.  The clutch brake is new

Could it be that the clutch plates are stuck to the re-surfaced flywheel from sitting a few months?   Can I rap on the back of the clutch through the inspection hole to attempt to free it up?   If so, should I do that with the pedal depressed?

Edited by Full Floater
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Can you put it in Low gear and start it, then drive it to see if it will break free?  You did say the clutch discs are in correctly.. can  you get under there and look at the clutch fork movement with some one pushing/pumping the clutch?  (engine Off)...

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I can put the truck in lo gear and start it but it's not currently in a position to move more then a few feet.  And I have the service brake system all apart for new relay valves and such.    It did actually jump into gear when I was trying it and had to pull the shut down to get it to stop as I had no clutch disengagement to take the load of the trans to get it out of gear.   Didn't have room to throttle it and release, to brake the torque. 

I have had someone work the clutch as I watched, the throw out bearing pulls the clutch "rod" back and the bearing moves up against the clutch brake.  Also used a board for adjusting purposes to hold the pedal down when nobody was around.

 

One thing I cannot do, or I haven't yet, was to measure .010" gap at the clutch brake with the pedal at the floor as I can't get in there with the Mack style release fork in the way.  Will have to custom bend a feeler gauge or something.  But it's probably close enough that I should get at least marginal disengagement 

 

Yes the clutch plates went in right.  Triple checked that when installing.  

 

The release fork is on the right side of the throw out bearing hahaha.  I can see how THAT problem could potentially occur

Edited by Full Floater
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does it act 'a-fool' in neutral?   Im a little bit lost..  if the clutch fork is pulling the throw out bearing, then you should be able to start the engine with ease...  sorry Bud,,  i'm not adding this up very well..  

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The engine starts and runs no problem.

With the engine running, when I depress the clutch to the floor to wait a couple seconds for the clutch brake to do it's thing, I cannot get it into gear, it just grinds as if im trying to stab it into gear without pressing the clutch in.   I can wait a long time with my foot to the floor, and still no engagement, it just wants to grind. 

 

Edited by Full Floater
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reread this entire topic three times to get on right  brain thoughts. 1 - you stated the clutch linkage is different (based on picture) , does this have a clutch brake mounted on pilot shaft or is brake under pilot mounted to trans??- haven't looked at your reply Jojo ; still writing. 2- with a helper or 2x4 holding clutch pedal down , does the linkage come in contact with clutch brake???  a spicer /eaton clutch would have an internal adjust with clutch brake external adjust ;; the purpose of the adjustment shown in picture, a mack clutch would be external adjust with clutch brake internal.

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im sorry about my slow understanding..  I think you say when its in gear and you start it, with clutch pedal pushed it is still in gear?  sorry bud, but that sounds like the clutch discs are installed wrong..  Maybe mechohaulic will see this and bring the light..  

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first post  states "going into a western mack";linkage picture shows a cable clutch linkage, add two together question now is 1- are both trucks same model :2- did both units have same cable linkage or is one mechanical vs cable linkage? 3- engine swap is topic: did transmission stay the same ??4- jobber sourced the clutch; do the clutches look the same ?? go with that for now. i've never had to measure free play with a tape just "eye ball ". 

check physical appearance with clutch pushed down see what not contacting what. also under these conditions : I would connect brakes system so it can be controlled

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I have worked on many trucks with messed up clutch adjustments and sloppy linkages and so on..  The ones that weren't totally broken, were still drivable, if only into the shop.. This is one, were, I wish I was there to see the issue happen..  With the info we have, I am leaning towards improper clutch parts and/or installation..  

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1/2in between throw out and new clutch brake was stated; that tells me its a spicer/eaton with pull clutch and brake on input shaft .  clutch adjust internal on pressure plate with clutch brake adjustment on external linkage. 

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so It was converted???  I did a flywheel conversion on a couple E-6 Super Dogs last year and the year before.  Went to a 15 1/2'' easy pedal clutch on both..  

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The engine is a 235 and trans is a 107 six speed in both trucks.  Same flywheels, different model trucks.  Both had mechanical clutch linkages with a cable from the pedal. but slightly different linkage setup at the bellhousing, so that's a difference.  The new clutch looked the same as the clutch that was in it, the numbers off the old clutch were cross referenced to the new clutch.   I didn't mess with the dogs.   What tool is there to align them?  Yes the clutch brake is on the trans input shaft.  It's a Babcock 2 piece.  Same that was in there.

Ya so the main symptom here, just so I stay clear in my ramblings; is the clutch will not disengage while the engine is running, to allow the transmission to be placed in gear.  I installed the clutch on the flywheel/engine while the engine was on the ground being overhauled.  It installed into the truck pretty flawlessly.  Anti rattle "shims" were installed as per instructions in the clutch kit.  I was new to those but I don't think they would be causing my grief. 

Im thinking the issue must be internal.  Im hoping its just a sticking clutch disk that I can free up somehow, I just can't really drive it at the moment to free it up buy rough housing it a bit.  

I will take a pic and post it here so there can be a visual.   

 

Edited by Full Floater
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