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My post will be as stated in the Title. I’ve recently passed a DOT inspection 10/11/22. That same day at that same shop; they had filled differential oil in both rear ends. I drove 400 miles fine the next day (Wednesday) and by Thursday morning I heard and felt the performance in my truck very odd. I brought the truck back to the shop it was just inspected at. I had seen it for myself that the front rear end plug/bolt was missing and both rear ends were completely wet with oil! My front rear end was smoking pretty hard, cooked. This shop had failed to either put the oil filler bolt back on properly or forgot to even put it back on at all. Anyways, they’ve installed a reman front rear end but are trying to negotiate with me; admitting there at fault for the missing bolt for the oil but that another area to fill oil in that differential was either dry or little to no oil. This shop is saying  where that other area to fill oil had no oil that THATS where the damage was and NOT where they failed to put the plug back on the rear end… I am trying to fight for no negotation to pay the new Reman for their behalf of failing to put the oil Bolt back on. I will try post pictures.

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There 100% at fault. I believe the bevel gear compartment is splashed lubed along with the power divider. Those fill plugs are for initial fill like after a repair. After that you maintain level at the missing plug on the axle housing. If there was no oil in the rear then there wouldn’t be any oil in those other areas. 

Edited by Onyx610
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It is splash lubed..  proper oil fill technique is,,  Power divider first,  about a pint,  then the side cover plug for the top reduction, then the rear plug that is missing, to fill the bowl..  then as Onyx said,,  regular oil level checks are done at the rear plug in the banjo housing.  the oil is delivered throughout the carrier by splash and a series of trough's that direct oil to the bearings, the spur shaft housing on top has ports that maintain the oil level in the top reduction. and the power divider in this case has ports that do the same. The bull gear dips oil from the bowl and brings it to the top reduction, notice the spiral on the thru-shaft... it carries oil the the power divider through the thru-shaft tube...  then the oil in the power divider spills over into the top reduction as it is filled/circulated...   I wrote all this, just in case they try to tell you a story of how it gets lubed..   Good luck with your claim..   jojo

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11 hours ago, Shortdawg67 said:

That same day at that same shop; they had filled differential oil in both rear ends

 

11 hours ago, Shortdawg67 said:

admitting there at fault for the missing bolt for the oil but that another area to fill oil in that differential was either dry or little to no oil

Well you've paid them to fill both diffs, if there happened to be lack of lubrication in another section of the diff, then they haven't done what you've paid them for. That's without them leaving the plug out.

Hope it's not the same shop you've been using all along mate, seems this trucks already cost a lot of time and money trying to get it right.

Wouldn't be giving them a cent.

How'd you get on with the low oil pressure?

 

13 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

It is splash lubed..  proper oil fill technique is,,  Power divider first,  about a pint,  then the side cover plug for the top reduction, then the rear plug that is missing, to fill the bowl..  then as Onyx said,,  regular oil level checks are done at the rear plug in the banjo housing.  the oil is delivered throughout the carrier by splash and a series of trough's that direct oil to the bearings, the spur shaft housing on top has ports that maintain the oil level in the top reduction. and the power divider in this case has ports that do the same. The bull gear dips oil from the bowl and brings it to the top reduction, notice the spiral on the thru-shaft... it carries oil the the power divider through the thru-shaft tube...  then the oil in the power divider spills over into the top reduction as it is filled/circulated...   I wrote all this, just in case they try to tell you a story of how it gets lubed..   Good luck with your claim..   jojo

I could Be wrong , how ever it Looks like the thru shaft sheath has turned some in the bore think that hole should be lower in the cup!  You don"t normally see the oil threads from the side Could have happened during the over heat cycle! that tube feeds the power divider and front bearings ! That said  this is a classic why you teach your people!  A plug is either in and tight , or its out ! Nothing in between! It s the rules! same as the  SHOP DOOR All the way UP or ALL the way Down., No in between! Its the Rules!

Good luck with your claim In my mind they should own it! !

People make  mistakes shit happens that's sometimes how they learn! 

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@Adkat well, I still have Low Oil Pressure, even with The Who Overhaul I have had done. I was supposed to take my truck back to my mechanic to check out if the RockerShafts Plugs are on because that’s where I’m thinking my oil pressure issue is at. But THIS problem occurred from a different shop and postponed me from my original (Low Oil PSI) issue. @Onyx610 man I went home smelling like sh*t from the smell of that smoking Rear end 😂 I appreciate all of you putting your inputs on my topics. All of you are awesome! Man, I’m these 16 months of O/O with this truck is has been a ride!!

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@fjh 

New Oil Pressure gauge, new Oil Pressure Sensor

new oil pump, new oil cooler, correct gasket for oil filter housing

New ECM

6 new EUPs

pulled out camshaft that looks ok, but put in new Cam Bearings Kit

Pai industries OverHaul Kit

I heard on the service bulletin and through this forum the only things left could be the rockershafts missing plugs to hold the oil In; if those plugs are missing then that could be part of low oil pressure or the relief valve in the oil filter housing.

what more could I look at for low oil pressure?

 Bro ! The relief valve in the oil filter housing is a possibility ! Can't hurt to check all of these you obviously done everything else Bud !  I'm just going on my  experience that never saw a rocker shaft plugs cause oil pressure to drop Just made the jakes not work!  Again by all means you need to check it! Your positive you don't have oil dilution going on there? I didn't review your original post on the pressure issue but  just asking? Oil samples taken?

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I was just looking at the pics of the rear end, again...  It sure is awefully dry.. there should be oil present and a puddle..  did they put any oil back in before the misshap? Or did they pressure wash the evidence away before taking a picture..  ? 

@fjh I’m going to send a diagram of the oil filter housing; I asked about that relief valve in that housing and one of the Mack dealers Parts Department didn’t know what I was talking about so they printed out for me a diagram of the oil housing to show me there’s no relief valve. I don’t beleive I have oil dilution; to me seems to look all Oil from the Dipstick no discoloration of coolant mixing from either/or the coolant tank as well. Yeah haven’t hit 10k on the miles yet from having an Overhaul I plan on doing an OA at the 10k mile Oil Change. Right now I put SuperTech 15W40 for my first 10,000 miles after Overhaul and when I get the oil change will transition into Shell Rotella Oil.

@Joey Mack correct they didn’t give me plugs my apologies for misuse of words; they did give me caps. I will show what caps the parts department gave me just so i can confirm with you guys I have the right ones. The Oil Pressure HOT after running a 45,000lb load at IDLE shows about 8-10PSI. At 14RPMS shows 20PSI. At a red light I go from 8-10PSI to going through all 10 (Eaton automatic) gears at 20PSI. COLD START Oil PSI runs just a little over 40PSI and makes it’s way down as the Engine is getting warmer.. Hooking up a Manual gauge to the Oil Port shows all this as well. It definetly feels like it should be pulling a lot better due to no power in the Oil PSI trouble I’m still having. @Onyx610 I know, that rear end does look dry! But that middle shaft/Rod does not look like a ‘Long term’ wear/damage to me… The only area they put differential Oil (Before the misshap) was in that bottom bowl that they forgot/improperly put that Bolt back to..

Edited by Shortdawg67

Yeah, I don't recall those caps.. maybe I just forgot..  but the older E-Techs had smaller welch plugs, 13/16" if I remember right...  

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@Joey Mack I hope these will be the correct caps for my ASET ! They based it off of my VIN. @Onyx610 I didn’t think those scratches would be long term I would have thought it’d look more severe then that. Not even the gear teeth look bad. Yes I think they cleaned it up honestly to have it ready to be taken for Core Return.

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On a side note,I was told many years ago to always check the rears hot as soon as u park the truck or you will get a false reading because some lube from the top of the carrier will drain down to the bottom making it look full or even over full..

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