Pulling injectors on a 673

[Craig N]

18 hours ago, mechohaulic said:

might still have the water temp sender in the back of manifold 

Yep, it’s there, just not sure hooked to it. Someone put a mechanical gauge in so I’ll pull it and screw the mechanical one in. Thanks!

[Craig N]

6 hours ago, Freightrain said:

Typical shutterstat has air supply to the stat and from the stat to shutters.

Yours looks like it might have a shut off valve from the dash to remove air supply so shutters are always open?  Like mentioned above, it takes air pressure to close them(sprung open for safety).

Note: the shutterstat is marked IN and OUT.  If you supply air to the wrong side, they won't open again(I found out personally LOL).

Yeah, I gotta figure out how all this was supposed to work. Different motor in a different truck. Gonna try and plumb it so I can open the shutters with the switch. 
 

I opened the petcock at the air supply to the unit on the firewall and they opened. I flipped the switch on the dash and they closed, but one end of the switch had an airline going to nothing and leaks when I flip it closed. Have to figure out where to put that. 

[mechohaulic]

3 hours ago, Craig N said:

Yeah, I gotta figure out how all this was supposed to work. Different motor in a different truck. Gonna try and plumb it so I can open the shutters with the switch. 
 

I opened the petcock at the air supply to the unit on the firewall and they opened. I flipped the switch on the dash and they closed, but one end of the switch had an airline going to nothing and leaks when I flip it closed. Have to figure out where to put that. 

how long leak last, sure it wasn't exhausting air?  springs (should be two) on shutter cyl keep shutters open , air used to close them;;;; unless have been changed.

[mechohaulic]

3 hours ago, Craig N said:

Yep, it’s there, just not sure hooked to it. Someone put a mechanical gauge in so I’ll pull it and screw the mechanical one in. Thanks!

close clearance for probe coil in back , don't want to bend toooo much

[Craig N]

1 hour ago, mechohaulic said:

how long leak last, sure it wasn't exhausting air?  springs (should be two) on shutter cyl keep shutters open , air used to close them;;;; unless have been changed.

I’m not sure to be honest. I’ll check tomorrow. I think it was a constant leak. Has a fitting at the end of the copper that’s the same as what’s going to the shutterstat. 

[Freightrain]

21 hours ago, Craig N said:

Yeah, I gotta figure out how all this was supposed to work. Different motor in a different truck. Gonna try and plumb it so I can open the shutters with the switch. 
 

I opened the petcock at the air supply to the unit on the firewall and they opened. I flipped the switch on the dash and they closed, but one end of the switch had an airline going to nothing and leaks when I flip it closed. Have to figure out where to put that. 

I wouldn't worry about manually opening them.  As long as everything is plumbed correctly it will work just fine automatically.  Mine open and close going down the road.  You can hear the fan change pitch if it gets cold and they shut(around 160*).  Pull a load and they open.  When truck is off they will open and close as the temperature changes.  Until it runs out of air and opens.

[Craig N]

Making progress. Pulled the windshields out of the box today and broke one. Pulled one out of the red truck. Got them all installed anyway. Boy, that lock strip is a pain in the ass.  Adjusted the passenger door latch, slammed the door and broke the passenger window lol. I’ll pull the drivers window out of the red truck, someday, and replace. Got the fenders and grill shell bolted up today. New brake chambers got out on this week.  Brought the driver seat to the upholstery shop this week, should get back next week. Got all the fluids changed.  Got the air box mounted up.  Whittling down the list. 

Edited July 22, 2023 by Craig N

[Craig N]

Shutters seem to be working too. Also have a new voltage gauge and temp gauge. Might get those installed and wired tomorrow. Have an alternator for it too. Still waiting on the pulley to arrive. I’ll fiddle with the belts once that’s installed. Floors bolted in again, too. Brake light work. Was messing around with the threadle valve and saw the brake lights going off when I’d block the air coming from them. Had the line to the service brake valve off and was blowing shop air through it to clear all the oil that was in the system. Old compressor must’ve leaked by I guess, I don’t know.  I’m sure I’m missing some stuff to add, but I’m getting closer. 

[mowerman]

My God bud send me some of your ambition, amazing progress. Thanks for sharing looks great… Bob

[Freightrain]

Dang gone!  You don't have much luck with glass!!!  Are the fuzzy and felts missing from the tracks?  No reason the door glass should have broke.  Yes, the lock channel is a PITA to install.  I tried using the typical tool and broke it!  Had glass shop do it for me.  Best $20 spent!!

 

The air compressor will pass oil as the rings wear.  Mine would make a milkshake in the tank every trip out.  Spent the money on rebuilding it and been dry for 20 yrs.  It will sludge everything.  I pulled my air wipers, dismantled the motor, clean it and the valving on the end, new lines and it will throw the wipers off it runs so fast.  Many don't want to deal with them, but some simple maintenance and they work well.

 

The shutter control is another simple repair item.  Mine would leak air bad.  Just a simple rubber cup inside, mine was hard as a rock.  Found something at MacMaster Carr and it works perfect now.

[Craig N]

What size fusible link are you all running between your battery and alternator?  For those that run an alternator.  The alternator tested at 180 amp, so a 200 amp fuse is my thought. 

Edited July 25, 2023 by Craig N

[Craig N]

So, what’s to stop me from using the pulley from the generator?  Fits right on the shaft. Doesn’t seem to have any interference. Anyone do this?

[mrsmackpaul]

I don't think most alternators have a fuseable link in the circuit

However it is important to remember the purpose of a fuse is to protect the wire, nothing more, so fuseable link size should be based on the wire not on the alternators ability

I found this chart bellow that should you give some idea

 

As far as the pulley goes, the only downside that I can think of is alternators become effective at a different speed and can spin a lot faster than a generator

As such most alternators have a lot smaller pully so the alternator with a large pulley might not be useful until the engine revs pick up, if it was mine I would hunt about for a small pully as truck motors only rev low to begin with

Do you know what size pully the alternator is meant to have ?  This might be a place to start, or what the rev range is 

Good luck and great progress, a bugger about the glass, I have zero luck with glass fitment and just pay the coin as I break more than I have success with lol

 

Paul 

[mechohaulic]

On 7/22/2023 at 2:45 PM, Craig N said:

Making progress. Pulled the windshields out of the box today and broke one. Pulled one out of the red truck. Got them all installed anyway. Boy, that lock strip is a pain in the ass.  Adjusted the passenger door latch, slammed the door and broke the passenger window lol. I’ll pull the drivers window out of the red truck, someday, and replace. Got the fenders and grill shell bolted up today. New brake chambers got out on this week.  Brought the driver seat to the upholstery shop this week, should get back next week. Got all the fluids changed.  Got the air box mounted up.  Whittling down the list. 

after you installed the window lock strip; hopefully there wasn't a lot left over= unless you had a brand new piece. many times installing the strip it is pulled into place ending with excess. it should be pushed in . stretching it out will have it contract later leaving a space and possible water leak.

[Craig N]

4 hours ago, mrsmackpaul said:

I don't think most alternators have a fuseable link in the circuit

However it is important to remember the purpose of a fuse is to protect the wire, nothing more, so fuseable link size should be based on the wire not on the alternators ability

I found this chart bellow that should you give some idea

 

As far as the pulley goes, the only downside that I can think of is alternators become effective at a different speed and can spin a lot faster than a generator

As such most alternators have a lot smaller pully so the alternator with a large pulley might not be useful until the engine revs pick up, if it was mine I would hunt about for a small pully as truck motors only rev low to begin with

Do you know what size pully the alternator is meant to have ?  This might be a place to start, or what the rev range is 

Good luck and great progress, a bugger about the glass, I have zero luck with glass fitment and just pay the coin as I break more than I have success with lol

 

Paul 

I’ve got the smaller pulley, I can run that.  I was just thinking of not having to figure out what size belts I’ll need and saving a few bucks haha. I’ll put the smaller one on tomorrow and try to get it mounted up. Just gonna run some 1/2” all thread for the bottom bracket I guess. 

[Craig N]

1 hour ago, mechohaulic said:

after you installed the window lock strip; hopefully there wasn't a lot left over= unless you had a brand new piece. many times installing the strip it is pulled into place ending with excess. it should be pushed in . stretching it out will have it contract later leaving a space and possible water leak.

I had a roll of it and pushed it all in. I didn’t have any luck using the tool my buddy let me borrow so we just pushed it in but by bit. Took awhile for sure haha. 

[Craig N]

Me again with more questions haha. How do you adjust the clutch linkage?  My pedal is really high. It doesn’t slip as far as I can tell. I’ve read some old posts on here from some of you guys, but didn’t see much in the way for pedal adjustment. I saw Larry commented on a post in 2005 saying his pedal was high.  This was probably before he put the 237 in haha.  From what I read, you don’t actually adjust the clutch itself unless it’s been removed/worked on.   Just wondering if anyone had any special instructions on pedal adjustment. 
 

The future is a funny place, but having sites like this one where there are folks willing to share their knowledge and experience is amazing. I can’t thank you all enough for taking the time to help me and countless others out. 🍻

[doubleclutchinweasel]

Do you know if it is a single or double disc clutch?  Mack clutch or Eaton/Spicer?  That can make a huge difference in where to start.

I posted some pages on here a while back showing how to adjust the linkage on a B model.  Check out this link...

 

[Craig N]

10 hours ago, doubleclutchinweasel said:

Do you know if it is a single or double disc clutch?  Mack clutch or Eaton/Spicer?  That can make a huge difference in where to start.

I posted some pages on here a while back showing how to adjust the linkage on a B model.  Check out this link...

 

I’ll check tomorrow to see what I have for a clutch and transmission number. It’s a duplex out of a heavier spec twin screw b-61. Thanks for posting that link!  I bought a manual, but apparently all I have is the “Fuel” book. I’m missing all the other books it appears haha. 

[Craig N]

So, if I’m grabbing at the top of pedal travel, toward the seat, I’d want to increase the free pedal?  Am I backwards?

[doubleclutchinweasel]

8 hours ago, Craig N said:

So, if I’m grabbing at the top of pedal travel, toward the seat, I’d want to increase the free pedal?  Am I backwards?

Increase free pedal, correct.  As clutches wear, the free travel gets less, making the pedal "tighter".  So, yes, add free travel.

[mowerman]

Great progress bud let’s keep it up. Also fan belts are not an issue. Bob

[Mean Green]

Lots of dish soap and the the correct tool makes the windshield strip go in quick that sucks with the glass I did the same thing to my side window made some adjustments and broke it I had put a new wing window and my son pulled it shut and it was not allligned right and he broke it lol

[Craig N]

Thanks, guys!!  I drove it around the port for about 20 minutes yesterday to “shake it down”. Got it up to operating temp, or just below.  Shutters seem to work as they should. Everything seems tight, but I’ll look at it better today to be sure. Exhaust stack should be going on today. I’m going to go get my seat from the upholsterer in a few minutes, so that might go in today. Should be better than the folding metal chair I have in there at the moment haha. Maybe get the hood on today too. 

[mowerman]

I was putting together a 55 Belair years ago and I sat on a bucket just to test drive the car ha ha right there with you my brother