Pulling injectors on a 673

[doubleclutchinweasel]

Oh, man.  I can't remember the "sequence" on those lines.  I will try to look through some of my service books and see if I can find a schematic on the fuel system.  Different year models may have slightly different-looking parts.

I'm sure somebody on here will do better from memory than I can do with the book.  But, I'll see if I can dig anything up for you.

[doubleclutchinweasel]

Did you look at some of the earlier discussion on here, like this one?

 

[Craig N]

46 minutes ago, doubleclutchinweasel said:

Oh, man.  I can't remember the "sequence" on those lines.  I will try to look through some of my service books and see if I can find a schematic on the fuel system.  Different year models may have slightly different-looking parts.

I'm sure somebody on here will do better from memory than I can do with the book.  But, I'll see if I can dig anything up for you.

I have a service manual at home, will look though it when I get a chance. Not sure why I didn’t think of that, d’oh!

[Craig N]

Quick update. Fuel lines are all sorted out. Air intake is on. Have to paint up the air cleaner from big red to go on the green machine but the tube and intake tube on turbo is all on, so I can at least start it. Have to wire up the starter, pull the studs out of the PTO and put the plate from the other transmission on the PTO hile, fill it and then I should be able to start it once I get fuel going back into the pump. Will need a little bleeding since I had to remove all the fuel lines. I’m also going to grab a 21 SI si for wire alternator and get rid of the genny/voltage regulator too. Will have to sort out belt size, but that should be ok. Going to remove the Bendix governor from big red and replace the one on the green machine. Then it’s glass installation time.  I’ll drive it around the port a bunch to shake it down then I’ll get it home and get all the wiring done. Will make sure the oil, water and air gauge work before I drive it too.  Need to pull the driver seat from red and put in green once I get the floor bolted back in and get the mats cleaned and reinstalled. Still smells like cat piss, so really gotta clean them well. Have to bolt door handles on also. I’m sure I’m forgetting stuff l but you get the gist of it. Getting closer. Hope you guys are doing well. 

[mrsmackpaul]

Your moving right along there 

Should prime up pretty easy I eould of thought, good luck and keep us posted 

 

Paul 

[mechohaulic]

lookin good , positive progress makes for good day. before tooo much fuel bleeding , long as batteries are good random cranking will be best to get oil pressures up before engine running; just a thought.

[Craig N]

Hi guys. Well, she’s alive!!!  We fired her up just now and went without much fuss. Only thing I have an issue with is I have oil coming out of a tee’d off fitting coming out of the turbo. Looks like the return line to me since the line goes down into the top of the oil pan. Anyone know what this fitting should be hooked up to?

[mowerman]

Excellent thanks for letting us know. I don’t know why anybody would T  that off… Bob

[Craig N]

Went to the oil pressure gauge it looks like.  Removing the line off big red now. 

[mowerman]

 Ha ha that would’ve been my wild guess …. Bob

[terry]

1 hour ago, Craig N said:

Went to the oil pressure gauge it looks like.  Removing the line off big red now. 

I wouldn't think a gauge would be on a return line?    terry

[Craig N]

3 hours ago, terry said:

I wouldn't think a gauge would be on a return line?    terry

I was thinking the same thing. It was definitely to the gauge, but I don’t think this is the correct spot, though I’m not entirely sure it’s a return line, just a guess. It’s got plenty of pressure at it that’s for sure. I don’t see where the oil would be feeding into the turbo other than that line, so maybe a feed?

[Craig N]

Where are the usual ports for oil pressure and coolest temp?  I’d like to get those gauges hooked up properly before I do too much. There’s a port on the water jacket, but I think it has something for the shutters hooked to it. 
 

How do these shutters work?  I have a switch on the dash that activates the shutters with air, but one end isn’t hooked up. I’m gonna look at the big red and see where that line went.  I think the governor was tee’d off and the line went there somewhere. 
 

I’m super excited to have this running and can’t wait I to finish it up, or at least get it to driving condition. Thanks a million for everyone’s help here!

[terry]

20 hours ago, Craig N said:

I was thinking the same thing. It was definitely to the gauge, but I don’t think this is the correct spot, though I’m not entirely sure it’s a return line, just a guess. It’s got plenty of pressure at it that’s for sure. I don’t see where the oil would be feeding into the turbo other than that line, so maybe a feed?

Should be a oil inlet and oil drain on the turbo center section, unless the center section has been turned upside down, feed was on top and drain on the bottom going to side cover on the block, oil feed i believe was off a fitting on top of head.    terry

[Craig N]

On 7/9/2023 at 10:43 AM, terry said:

Should be a oil inlet and oil drain on the turbo center section, unless the center section has been turned upside down, feed was on top and drain on the bottom going to side cover on the block, oil feed i believe was off a fitting on top of head.    terry

Yep, looks like that’s what I have here, I was just looking at it wrong. Good news!

[Craig N]

I’m trying to make sense of my shutterstat. The line coming out of the top of the unit on the firewall goes to a fitting on my water jacket:  From that fitting, another line goes to the actual shutterstat. It must be some kind of tee since there is no coolant coming out of either line and the air works on it. Why is this screwed into the water manifold?  This looks like an ideal place for my coolant temp sender.  The fitting on the side of it is going to my coolant circulator (block heater). I need to put the temp sender somewhere. I have a selector switch on the dash that works the shutter manually, but one end of the switch is open. Need to figure out where to book that into also.
 

Getting closer!

[Mean Green]

The first picture should have supply air and the front bowl looking part should have oil in it with a wick to go to shutter stat in water manifold then out of that to shutter cylinder as long as shutters are open your ok I totally removed mine and made a metal grille over the rad it takes a little longer to get hot but I only drive it in the summer

[mechohaulic]

On 7/8/2023 at 9:29 AM, Craig N said:

Hi guys. Well, she’s alive!!!  We fired her up just now and went without much fuss. Only thing I have an issue with is I have oil coming out of a tee’d off fitting coming out of the turbo. Looks like the return line to me since the line goes down into the top of the oil pan. Anyone know what this fitting should be hooked up to?

that #4 aeroquipt line is oil going IN TO the turbo  return will be the 3/4 round pipe on bottom held in place with two 3/8th bolts and gasket ; short pipe with # 8 aeroquipt  line which connects to side cover on block.  line for oil pressure gauge  should (might) connect to oil pressure pad . 

[mechohaulic]

7 hours ago, Craig N said:

I’m trying to make sense of my shutterstat. The line coming out of the top of the unit on the firewall goes to a fitting on my water jacket:  From that fitting, another line goes to the actual shutterstat. It must be some kind of tee since there is no coolant coming out of either line and the air works on it. Why is this screwed into the water manifold?  This looks like an ideal place for my coolant temp sender.  The fitting on the side of it is going to my coolant circulator (block heater). I need to put the temp sender somewhere. I have a selector switch on the dash that works the shutter manually, but one end of the switch is open. Need to figure out where to book that into also.
 

Getting closer!

the 1/4 in line from water manifold is connected to a shutterstat. I would take the small lines off and blow air through to check for clogged lines. temp gauge should be connected to a sender on BACK of water manifold . it may have been moved when block heater line installed on top 

[Craig N]

30 minutes ago, Mean Green said:

The first picture should have supply air and the front bowl looking part should have oil in it with a wick to go to shutter stat in water manifold then out of that to shutter cylinder as long as shutters are open your ok I totally removed mine and made a metal grille over the rad it takes a little longer to get hot but I only drive it in the summer

Ohhhh, that makes sense. I thought the shutterstat was the cylinder. Makes sense it’s a thermostat from the manifold. Air is separated from the water. Thanks!

[Craig N]

2 minutes ago, mechohaulic said:

the 1/4 in line from water manifold is connected to a shutterstat. I would take the small lines off and blow air through to check for clogged lines. temp gauge should be connected to a sender on BACK of water manifold . it may have been moved when block heater line installed on top 

Making sense to me now. I’ll look for the plug in the back of the manifold tomorrow. I’ll pull off the heater if need be or tee it off from there. Thanks!

[mechohaulic]

7 hours ago, Craig N said:

I’m trying to make sense of my shutterstat. The line coming out of the top of the unit on the firewall goes to a fitting on my water jacket:  From that fitting, another line goes to the actual shutterstat. It must be some kind of tee since there is no coolant coming out of either line and the air works on it. Why is this screwed into the water manifold?  This looks like an ideal place for my coolant temp sender.  The fitting on the side of it is going to my coolant circulator (block heater). I need to put the temp sender somewhere. I have a selector switch on the dash that works the shutter manually, but one end of the switch is open. Need to figure out where to book that into also.
 

Getting closer!

memory serves me correct the shutters use air pressure to close. dual springs on the cylinder hold it open. the switch on the dash should have one end to line on shutterstat  . other port on switch would be any source of air.

[mechohaulic]

15 minutes ago, Craig N said:

Making sense to me now. I’ll look for the plug in the back of the manifold tomorrow. I’ll pull off the heater if need be or tee it off from there. Thanks!

might still have the water temp sender in the back of manifold 

[mowerman]

Hell speaking of shutters stats I don’t even know if you’re gonna get them anymore last one I bought was 40 years ago in Los Angeles 

[Freightrain]

Typical shutterstat has air supply to the stat and from the stat to shutters.

Yours looks like it might have a shut off valve from the dash to remove air supply so shutters are always open?  Like mentioned above, it takes air pressure to close them(sprung open for safety).

Note: the shutterstat is marked IN and OUT.  If you supply air to the wrong side, they won't open again(I found out personally LOL).