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Pulling injectors on a 673


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7 hours ago, BOBWhite said:

What could be so hard about taking the heads off an old engine like this? Opposite the re-torquing pattern and then lift them off. I don't even think you would need a lift like a cat or cummins engine since it has two heads. 

And do you need to replace the head bolts and studs on something like this? I know now they have special torque to yield one time only bolts and studs but on old stuff I almost always reuse the head bolts. 

Oh, that’s a good question. I doubt I can get bolts and studs from ARP for a 673 Mack lol 

The heads weight abought 125 pounds each.  I bought new studs from Agkits.com for the one I have, If you have 18 stud heads, then the studs at the ends of the heads are different. 4 per head.  You will need to know that when ordering the head gaskets.   the nuts are hard to find.  I sand blasted mine and will re-use them.  The truck I'm doing this for is a personal museum piece and a parade truck..  It wont go to 'work'. But I bet it stays together...  jojo

610GC1123.. should be the part number for the head studs.  This is for the 20 bolt heads. All 20 are the same.  They are $21.00 ea. at Agkits.. To be honest, I have been told the old ones can be re-used if they are not rusted or messed up in any way.  My customer is a millionaire, so spending a thousand dollars on head studs was no issue..   Im not trying to pry into your wallet, just passing 'on' some info..  Jojo

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I’ll get a look at the studs when I get the heads off, but underneath the valve covers was still nice and oily (mice and all) and there isn’t any rust on the nuts on the outside of the valve covers, so here’s to hoping!

Remove the studs and wire brush and look for pits.Reuse and install in block finger tight.Dont do like some and put a sealer on the head gasket.Back years ago we would bring truck back in after a few miles and retorque.That is done by back each nut off one at a time and oiling it and retorquing.

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glenn akers

I zipped the bolts off my 237 and had it apart in minutes.  Head studs are reusable.  It is not a hard project, and this was my first big diesel.

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Larry

1959 B61 Liv'n Large......................

Charter member of the "MACK PACK"

 

58 minutes ago, theakerstwo said:

Remove the studs and wire brush and look for pits.Reuse and install in block finger tight.Dont do like some and put a sealer on the head gasket.Back years ago we would bring truck back in after a few miles and retorque.That is done by back each nut off one at a time and oiling it  

Nope, no sealer on head gaskets. I’ll get the studs out, clean them up and go from there. I’m gonna go to the garage in a while and start tearing the manifolds off. Might get the heads off today but if not, tomorrows another day. Gotta drain all the fluids first I guess. Got that luberfiner in the way I have to get off too. 

When I worked in the fleet garage that had r's and f's we always painted the head gaskets with aluminum paint and the orders from the owner I had to change the rod bolts when I did an engine. There were 27 or 29 Macks in that fleet.

Aluminum Paint???   Hmmm....   That is a new one for  me..   Did it work, without causing leaks?  I assume the painter had to be smooth and made no runs..  Just curious..  I was always taught to install them DRY....  Jojo

I ask this about paint,  but the 3 John Deere, 3179's I built in the last year, had head gaskets with a thin layer of clear silicone.  When placing the head down, you are NOT allowed to shift the head for alignment when it is on the deck..  Crazy thing is the line up bolts that you need to use are smaller diameter than the bore's in the head, so movement is still possible..  I tested this with a new head gasket that was kinked in the box,  and I'll be damned....   the slightest movement, pealed the silicone of with ease..  anyway, I'm just B.S.'n.....   Jojo

I have schooled on cat cummins and DD and this is alway talked about in school.All instructers say same thing that if you need to add a sealer the instrution will cover this.Some gaskets have rubber seal in them some were and any sealer installed on them will serve as a lube and can squrte out and leak.I have pulled head gaskets off of blocks with about ever thing on them you can think of and so we all ways blame that for a short life.I dont know but i know the factory dont ask for any more than what come out of the box.I dont think alummin paint on a steel gasket will hurt it if its allowed to dry.But i also dont see what its going help.One car mechanic told me years back that he thinks it will help a steel gasket lay flatter under pressure.

glenn akers

ok...  Well I was curious...  I think I will just stick to what I know, and read the instructions when I do an engine that is new to me...   Thank's,  Jojo

Silverfrost paint was common to find on head gaskets in Australia maybe 30 years ago or more but havent seen anyone use it for a real long time now

I have used copper spray, only if the head is in a really difficult spot like a COE truck without a tilt cab

Paul 

I beleive you,   but the last time I checked, the only thing going into the engine was air and fuel, if not fuel injected..   :) 

Some of the stuff I remember from when I was a kid.... I had no idea what any of it was at the time, but as a kid being allowed to hang around and watch, you just took it all in and hoped you could crawl under the truck when someone dropped something. 

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This is the gear that is reported as the go to deglazer used car sales man instant rebuld kit in jar bombdiggitdoo kit

 

old-fashioned-moth-flakes.jpg

This will save you bucket loads on those over charging money hungry pescky mechanics 🤣🤣:SMOKIE-LFT:

 

Paul

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