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if it were top picture;; 1- wouldn't have that big picture ? 2- looking straight through shouldn't have bell housing casting opposite side, should be lower opening.3- you should be looking at the throw out fork top side ? , not the clamp bolt; yes/no . that top vent /inspection cover wasn't to long lasting . no clutch brake puts the discussion back to square one, a lag in gearing truck into gear is what i believe is situation. can't say oil on disc =looks clean by picture. easiest way for clarifications to ask ;; 

is that picture taken of top or bottom bellhousing ?🙃

i just figured out how to enlarge the picture; now the confusion has set in.  can see what seems to be another rectangular opening opposite end.  on early single disc throw out assy  didn't some have a 1/2hole in casting and the circled shiny shaft was a "guide " so the throw out bearing assy didn't spin  rather slid back and forth.  the picture is  excellent ;;is it possible to get a picture of opposite end if this is a top picture??

41 minutes ago, mechohaulic said:

i just figured out how to enlarge the picture; now the confusion has set in.  can see what seems to be another rectangular opening opposite end.  on early single disc throw out assy  didn't some have a 1/2hole in casting and the circled shiny shaft was a "guide " so the throw out bearing assy didn't spin  rather slid back and forth.  the picture is  excellent ;;is it possible to get a picture of opposite end if this is a top picture??

You're right about the guide--my throwout bearing has one.

On 11/23/2022 at 11:10 AM, High Binder said:

Brocky, A buddy of mine and I tried that earlier, but it didn't work. I'm not sure I had the brakes on the drive axle adjusted up enough. It would just scoot the Maxi's on the tag axle.  

When I've had a stuck clutch before, I just drive the truck down the road as usual but with the clutch pushed down. Eventually the disc will pop loose. Especially if you goose the throttle here and there to put a little jolt on the driveline.

2 minutes ago, h67st said:

You're right about the guide--my throwout bearing has one.

THANK YOU  for the encouragement  some times i tend to doubt my memory.  so being a guide; would that be a top or bottom picture?

2 minutes ago, mechohaulic said:

THANK YOU  for the encouragement  some times i tend to doubt my memory.  so being a guide; would that be a top or bottom picture?

My memory is fuzzy on that, but I believe that's from the bottom.

going on idea that's a picture from ground level; the outer linkage would be top of photo. since that's a push clutch, is it possible the fork  hold down/ tightening bolt is in backwards and the nut being thicker then bolt head is hitting cover housing?? difficult to see ,some what looks like housing has marks behind nut. don't remember clearance .  if someone could be in cab slowly working clutch while you watch (wearing safety glasses) to see throw out operation. AND TRUCK SHUT OFF WITH KEY REMOVED. 

make sure there is plenty of run room in front of you. and parking brake WILL stop truck in emergency. agree with above suggestion; air build up . I mashed front of old H67 yrs ago when being towed to start= two stick ten speed : dead cold winter . main was in gear   aux wasn't ( thought it was). tow vehicle stopped , I let up clutch - I didn't stop. 

We are supposed to be on a higher range gear and a lot of people don’t realize that when I when  bump starting otherwise you break stuff I always use six on a 10 speed … OK now we’re off the subject ha ha on a happier note I did enjoy my turkey. OK that’s really changing shit…. Bob

19 hours ago, mechohaulic said:

THANK YOU  for the encouragement  some times i tend to doubt my memory.  so being a guide; would that be a top or bottom picture?

I just looked at a picture of my truck with the engine out and the TOB cross shaft is across the bottom with the tabs sticking upward to grab TOB.

So if you see the cross shaft, it is a bottom picture.

Mine had no CB.  It does take 4-5 seconds to get it in gear after the clutch was released in neutral.  If it takes 20 seconds, then it is not releasing far enough.  There is a sequence to follow to get it set up properly.  I would start with making sure the TOB is not riding the levers with the pedal all the way up.  That would show it is not riding it/causing it to slip driving down the road.

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Larry

1959 B61 Liv'n Large......................

Charter member of the "MACK PACK"

 

On 11/25/2022 at 6:05 PM, Freightrain said:

I just looked at a picture of my truck with the engine out and the TOB cross shaft is across the bottom with the tabs sticking upward to grab TOB.

So if you see the cross shaft, it is a bottom picture.

Mine had no CB.  It does take 4-5 seconds to get it in gear after the clutch was released in neutral.  If it takes 20 seconds, then it is not releasing far enough.  There is a sequence to follow to get it set up properly.  I would start with making sure the TOB is not riding the levers with the pedal all the way up.  That would show it is not riding it/causing it to slip driving down the road.

I remember a tuck I drove one trip.  It had a single disc with no clutch brake (or it didn't work!).  On level ground, it would go in after about 5-6 seconds.  If the truck was pointed uphill or downhill, the clutch disc would rub the flywheel or the pressure plate just enough to keep the blasted thing spinning while the clutch was in!  It was a PITA to get it into gear on a hill.  Figured out pretty quickly to make sure it was in gear BEFORE stopping on the hills.  Like I said.  Only had to deal with it for one trip.

Edited by doubleclutchinweasel
brain dead

"Eagles may soar, but weasels don't get sucked into jet engines."

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