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2000 RD 690S EM7-300 Starts, Idle's then shutdowns along with non-working guages.


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ok.  I do not see an accesory relay there.  over at the fuse panel, there are 4 relay cubes.  One of those should be the acc. relay..  I think its the lower one in the row of 3.  check the connections for green crud. Looks like you have a few small I.D. bulbs to identify and put back in the correct sockets..  :)       jojo

Edited by Joey Mack
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4 hours ago, Mackpro said:

The LSR ( Left Side Re-design) started in early February of 2000. I thought I’d was only on the CCRS engines as well. But the early  Etech’s had it to . 

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Thank you Mackpro for this info..  I'm glad you posted it for him..  The last thing I want to do is post incorrect info..  Jojo

24 minutes ago, Joey Mack said:

ok.  I do not see an accesory relay there.  over at the fuse panel, there are 4 relay cubes.  One of those should be the acc. relay..  I think its the lower one in the row of 3.  check the connections for green crud. Looks like you have a few small I.D. bulbs to identify and put back in the correct sockets..  :)       jojo

are you talking about the fuse panel inside the cab or under the hood

in the cab... to the left of the panel...  If I May???   I dont like the condition of the outside fuse panel... (E.P.D.M.)  It is dirty and will cause issues, if it hasnt already..  I suggest cleaning it with a good elec. spray cleaner and replacing the fuses with a dot of dielectric grease. Do you have the cover?  

  • Like 2
6 minutes ago, Joey Mack said:

in the cab... to the left of the panel...  If I May???   I dont like the condition of the outside fuse panel... (E.P.D.M.)  It is dirty and will cause issues, if it hasnt already..  I suggest cleaning it with a good elec. spray cleaner and replace the fuses with a dot of dielectric grease. Do you have the cover?  

We took off the top one because that's the one clicking when we turn the key. But well check the rest of those cubes

I have the fuse panel; I just took it off for the pictures. And for some reason, it doesn't let me upload photos any only a small size.

 we will clean up that EPDM

Edited by htx-em7-2000
  • Like 1

If the red and yellow light both are on it’s usually low coolant issue. This can cause the engine to shutdown if set in the parameters. If it’s only the red shutdown light on then it’s low oil pressure or high coolant temp which can shut the engine down as well. The Etech RD series of trucks use a mixture of electronic and manual gauges. The oil pressure gauge is mechanical but has a sensor on the filter stand that feeds info to the engine ecm . So your gauge could read correctly but the engine ecm is only seeing what the sensor is telling it which could be 0 psi causing the engine to shutdown.  Coolant temperature is the same way . The coolant temp sensor that  sticks out the side of the water manifold is for the gauge only. The one that sticks out the back towards the firewall is for the engine ecm only. And just like the oil pressure, what your gauges  tell you your ecm might be seeing something different. 

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4 hours ago, htx-em7-2000 said:

The fuse box on top of the engine. Were all checked by the tech to be working

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Check the big wire going to the bottom of this box! also As I and Mack pro have just mentioned If the engine starts and runs for one minute it is a timed shut down either the low coolant low oil psi Or coolant temp! That said if ever thing is going down there is a main power glitch!

5 hours ago, htx-em7-2000 said:

I also failed to mention that we were getting the flashing red light that does the ENGINE PROTECTION/SHUTDOWN

Vital info! Thanks for including it! Joey and fjh are going to steer you right.

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forgive me for not knowing....   but what is the CalAmp thing ?  is it a log book thing?  I have been studying this thread, and,,,  well,,,,,  thats all...  jojo

Idk why that’s still hooked up? That would be the first thing I’d get rid of….Also maybe contact the company that you bought it from and figure out what the deal with it is and how to not make it an issue to yourself anymore. 

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Slow down on a CalAmp delete, that's your ELD compliance right there.  If you're operating locally and don't need it then great, delete it. Don't assume it's the problem til you've done your homework.  

What blink codes do you get from the Engine Malfunction Light?  Fire up the truck. When the lightning bolt comes on: press/hold the set/decel button til the lightning bolt goes off. It will then blink a 2 digit code at you.  Write it down, press it again.  Keep doing that until it starts repeating codes.  Post the blink codes here, we can provide you with the data on the codes.

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it would be good to know the codes..  I looked at the pictures again. I see the oil pressure gauge is up, ( 52 PSI ),,  but the alt. gauge is not..  So the oil gauge goes up with the engine OFF? 

6 hours ago, JoeH said:

Slow down on a CalAmp delete, that's your ELD compliance right there.  If you're operating locally and don't need it then great, delete it. Don't assume it's the problem til you've done your homework.  

What blink codes do you get from the Engine Malfunction Light?  Fire up the truck. When the lightning bolt comes on: press/hold the set/decel button til the lightning bolt goes off. It will then blink a 2 digit code at you.  Write it down, press it again.  Keep doing that until it starts repeating codes.  Post the blink codes here, we can provide you with the data on the codes.

The engine malfunction light is not connected. We had a technician come out and plug into the ECU and only found a speed sensor that needed replacing.

We recently removed what I think is the oil pressure sensor 'red circle in the pic'  and blew some air into it and cleaned it.

As of right now the truck starts and stays on but the engine temp, RPMs, and Speed gauges are not responsive.

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I see it now,,  good deal..  engine speed is read by the sensor in the flywheel housing..   RPM/TDC sensor. . Those wires take a beating..  I would check them for wear or damage..  gently tug on them to see if they are weak, and wanting to move inside the plugs..  

12 minutes ago, Joey Mack said:

I see it now,,  good deal..  engine speed is read by the sensor in the flywheel housing..   RPM/TDC sensor. . Those wires take a beating..  I would check them for wear or damage..  gently tug on them to see if they are weak, and wanting to move inside the plugs..  

We just came back from a test drive, and it's still shutting down.

I think we will have to replace that oil pressure sensor from the picture.

Have you put a gauge on the oil filter pad to see what the oil pressure actually is? 

13 minutes ago, Joey Mack said:

I see it now,,  good deal..  engine speed is read by the sensor in the flywheel housing..   RPM/TDC sensor. . Those wires take a beating..  I would check them for wear or damage..  gently tug on them to see if they are weak, and wanting to move inside the plugs..  

yup good plan Joey! I have a question? Are you missing any other functions? Heater fan dash lights etc ? I’m wondering if one of the 4 -5 big main relays a fubar in the system there under the dash?

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Just now, fjh said:

yup good plan Joey! I have a question? Are you missing any other functions? Heater fan dash lights etc ? I’m wondering if one of the 4 -5 big main relays a fubar in the system there under the dash?

Would be nice if that shut down and malfunction light worked

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3 minutes ago, fjh said:

Would be nice if that shut down and malfunction light worked

The red shutdown light above the oil and temp gauge was flashing when all this started. Now it doesn't flash just shutdowns

 

7 minutes ago, Joey Mack said:

Have you put a gauge on the oil filter pad to see what the oil pressure actually is? 

No we don't have an external gauge.

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