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Mack 58,000lb Axle Disassembly


67RModel

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Below are two pictures. The first one is of the drive hub on my 1994 RD with 44,000lb rears. The second is of the drive hub on my 1960 B81 with what I think are 58,000lb rears. They have the infamous "cone" in the center of the hub. I am very familiar with wheel end tear down on the style of axle the 94 RD has. Unbolt flange and axle/flange assembly comes out as one piece etc. I have never messed with the B81 axles. I want to remove the wheels and hubs to get a look in there and get the brakes sorted and checked over. Is there any special process to follow with this style of hub? What will I see when I remove the cone? Is the axle shaft attached to it like my RD? Are the bearings in these axles running in an oil bath from the gear oil (like the RD) or are they packed in grease? I'm sure I have other questions but can't think of them now. Or I will have more when I start into the project. Thanks.

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On the B - Model there may be a seal in the center of the inside of the hub.  I believe the back half is greased and the outer is in oil...  The last one I worked on, I removed the inner seal and put a modern seal in the inside.  So far after over a year, there's no leak.  

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1 hour ago, MACKS said:

Are u pulling the spokes and wheels together,are u familiar with the greased up board method,saves u a ton of work..

My plan was to remove the wheels first then take off the cone, see what I have, and go from there. I'm not familiar with the greased board method. I can't image how I would move both wheels and tires the hub and brake drum all at once. I don't currently have a cherry picker or gantry crane handy. It has 12.00-24 rubber on it too. Very heavy. But I'm open to any handy tips and tricks. Thanks.

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51 minutes ago, 67RModel said:

My plan was to remove the wheels first then take off the cone, see what I have, and go from there. I'm not familiar with the greased board method. I can't image how I would move both wheels and tires the hub and brake drum all at once. I don't currently have a cherry picker or gantry crane handy. It has 12.00-24 rubber on it too. Very heavy. But I'm open to any handy tips and tricks. Thanks.

Yup super heavy,if u decide to pull the spoke and drum this is the way to go,brake has to be fully backed off or disconnected,jack it up under the box,remove cone and outer bearings,slide a greased up smooth board under the tires,plywood works best say 16 inches by 4 ft,lower the truck just enough for the tires to contact the board,the spindle should be centered in the hub,give it a good pull and they will slide right off,reinstall the same way,u won’t believe how easy they will slide off and on, Safety First always,good luck..

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Or if your on cement or a nice hard area and have access to one of these 

PT7203P.webp

 

They make the job very easy and it is much easier to remove the whole assembly with the tyres still mounted on the hub

If you don't have a pallet jack then the greasy b oiard is the go 

Either way is definitely the easiest wat to achieve these things 

Paul 

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Personally, when doing the board way... I have a piece of stainless 3/16 and similar to Mack's dimensions  (slicker than snot with some gear oil on it) . One thing you have to remember, years back you'd be taking wheels off like that for a brake job usually. (apart... brakes, a seal   back together)  if you get it apart and discover you need bearings or a drum, then this method gets as much work (or more) than taking it apart in the first place. The board way works, and probably way easier than comes to mind if you never did it. Trick is you only barely want the weight of the wheel end on the board. So you have to finesse it to the desired height with a good working jack.I also find if you have the other side of the axle on something like a 2 X 12 or something between the tires and the floor (or ground)  to level out the whole thing to the same height as the side jacked up helps. 

Edited by Mark T
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