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Ok, thanks. Took the eup harness all the way off anch checked everything. All looks good and ohmed good. Reinstalled and now i have codes for low voltage at every EUP and it will barely start and run horribly. Not sure where I went wrong. I am guessing i somehow spread the connectors kn the harness side. Going to have to figure it out.

are you saying you probed the eecu ends with something larger than a small paper clip?  Most folks dont have back up probe kits, so the smallest paper clip in the office will work.. Do you have the pin I.D. for the eecu connectors? it is printed on the wire also. It will tell you where to go, from one end to the other..  

As long as it is between the lift pump and the regulator, your good..  there are a couple other ports you can use, but this is a clear depiction of one that works..  jojo

Tell you what.. on the front of the engine, above the over board breather, is a 1/4 npt. Plug.. it takes a 1/4 drive ratchet extension to remove it..  you can hook to it,. There is also 2 other ports directly behind the block, right in line with the EUP's.. you can use one of them. Then you can put the regulator back in the normal way.. if you remove any of those plugs, be sure to dry it off and dope it really good, and put it in tight..  

1 hour ago, Joey Mack said:

1/4" NPT

I have both setups in my box so handy I  even made an adaptor for MP engines from an old oil pressure sensor! its nice to have a 2-3 inch pipe nipple and coupler to change up to an elbow of some sort there . that way you can use plastic or wire braid or what have you on the hose to the gauge  remove the cap from the crank case breather for easier access! I have a long hose to monitor from the cab when driving! I use this setup for oil preasure fuel preasure and air! 8ft of  1/4 single braid hose !  handy for most all testing !

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That's great.. Your trouble shooting of the EUP harness was good, and very useful for you and others in the future.. You found an issue that I have seen often..  Jojo

What’s crazy is you couldn’t actually see an issue at all. The wiring looked very good, it’s where it was twisted to go to the EPU. It was dark in the shop and under the heat shield and i literally saw sparks and that was a good thing. 

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19 minutes ago, 2wdiesel2021 said:

What’s crazy is you couldn’t actually see an issue at all. The wiring looked very good, it’s where it was twisted to go to the EPU. It was dark in the shop and under the heat shield and i literally saw sparks and that was a good thing. 

Agree being kept in the dark is good some times! 😂 Thanks for posting your fix! Definitely something to try if your search for clues! Turn the lights out! 

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I have a question,,, '2wdiesel2021'....  Did you happen to record the wire number off of the insulation, on the bad wire?..  It should say something like EJ-3 -41,,, something like that... If it isnt too much trouble to look at the bad wire, by peeling back the loom to read it... if you can't,,, that's ok...  I was curious if it was the power wire for EUP 1,2+3,,,  or the EECU signal wire, for #2..   Glad you got it fixed, and really glad you didn't load a parts cannon and shoot a couple grand worth of parts, due to a bad wire..  That happens a lot..  Good on you!!  Jojo

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2 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

I have a question,,, '2wdiesel2021'....  Did you happen to record the wire number off of the insulation, on the bad wire?..  It should say something like EJ-3 -41,,, something like that... If it isnt too much trouble to look at the bad wire, by peeling back the loom to read it... if you can't,,, that's ok...  I was curious if it was the power wire for EUP 1,2+3,,,  or the EECU signal wire, for #2..   Glad you got it fixed, and really glad you didn't load a parts cannon and shoot a couple grand worth of parts, due to a bad wire..  That happens a lot..  Good on you!!  Jojo

Joey a guy would think if he pu on a spark or arcing it would be a power wire !

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