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My father was driving my 78 superliner yesterday with an endt 676, 10 minutes after he left the pit loaded, he said the exhaust sound changed and there was slightly less power, he though he had an exhaust leak, but when he pulled in our yard I could hear the difference in sound, almost sounds like one cylinder dynatard was on, parked it at our shop overnight, started it this morning and same sound cold, pulled the valve covers to check and every thing looks right, everything is tight, no cracked springs, started it and everything is moving(not a wiped cam). Leaning towards cracked valve or bad injector, my question is what is the best way to check the injectors before is start pulling the motor apart, thanks (last over head was ran about 8 months ago, truck runs about 3-4 days a week) 

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I'm not as good on these as I want to be, but the few that I did, I would bring the #1 piston to TDC and make sure im up on #1 by looking at the #2 exh. rocker arm. it will be 'rocked'..  then I check the timing marks and grab a paint pen and start highlighting the marks.  as far as the injection pump gear, I match mark the gear to the pump drive gear on the cam gear, and then match mark 2 opposite pump gear bolts to the slot they are in. I mark one on the inside of the pump gear and the other on the outside on the pump gear so I dont get up+down confused..  I tend to make more marks than needed. make a match mark on the crank gear and the engine block, just in case the crank turns..  I hope Mechohaulic gets in on this one..  He's OLD!!  I mean Really OLD !!!  LIke Cranky OLD... and knows these engines much better than me.. :) 

 

He is a wealth of knowledge,   Glenn Akers was called home this year, he would have been a great one to learn from too..  So your stuck with Mech.... :)  and a few others.. jojo

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I dont know if you have lifter sticks,  I made a set...  I got 3/8'' wooden dowels, then went to harborfrieght and bought several bottles of rare earth magnets, they have 3/8'' ones there. and i bout 12 of there small METAL  squeeze clamps and a tube of 2 part epoxy..  I cut the dowels to 18''  then lightly sand one side of the magnet for the glue to stick too, and  glue the magnet to one end, then put some electrical tape over the magnet leaving 2'' inches on each side of the dowel, then wrapped tape around the end of the dowel to secure the first strip of tape..  the only maintenance I have is to replace the tape between jobs..  If you dont use tape, the magnet may come off the dowel and stay on the lifter..  Not good..  in the second picture you will see plastic clips, they sucked, so I bought metal ones.. but you can see the results..  jojo

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As far as I know and we all know that I know two tenths of stuff all 

If the injector pump or the drive to the pump is moved at all it will need to be spill timed 

I have done this before and for me it is very daunting and needs two people 

How ever it isn't impossible and no special tools are needed

If you can wait until tonight my time I'll scan the information out of the manual if I can find it

 

Paul

 

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On 5/31/2023 at 5:00 PM, Joey Mack said:

I'm not as good on these as I want to be, but the few that I did, I would bring the #1 piston to TDC and make sure im up on #1 by looking at the #2 exh. rocker arm. it will be 'rocked'..  then I check the timing marks and grab a paint pen and start highlighting the marks.  as far as the injection pump gear, I match mark the gear to the pump drive gear on the cam gear, and then match mark 2 opposite pump gear bolts to the slot they are in. I mark one on the inside of the pump gear and the other on the outside on the pump gear so I dont get up+down confused..  I tend to make more marks than needed. make a match mark on the crank gear and the engine block, just in case the crank turns..  I hope Mechohaulic gets in on this one..  He's OLD!!  I mean Really OLD !!!  LIke Cranky OLD... and knows these engines much better than me.. :) 

 

He is a wealth of knowledge,   Glenn Akers was called home this year, he would have been a great one to learn from too..  So your stuck with Mech.... :)  and a few others.. jojo

I just wrote a  lengthy  reply on this project and it didn't go through . will try again

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with front cover removed, reinstall the crank bolt , use spacers if needed . turn engine by hand till ALL the timing  marks line up on EVERY gear. remove two(2) opposing bolts of the inj pump drive. DO NOT loosen all 4 . take two  bolts (3/8 fine thread ??) cut the heads off. install these two bolts where the two pump drive bolts were removed. SCRIBE 4 lines in the drive gear one on each side of the headless bolts;this gives a very close setting for reinstall;; unit will still need a pump timing for 100% accuracy. I used WOODEN  clothes pins to hold up the lifters:: I know what the he-l are wooden clothes pins , as earlier stated """"I'm old very old : LOL cutting this short before it goes blank again.

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takes two for reinstall of cam ; important part is working with some one who listens. one under neath assisting cam through has fingers tooo close for comfort if helper installing cam pushes fast and fingers inside eng block get caught on cam lobes vs block. yes; info based on unfortunate experience . the wooden clothes pins were great for the day,  sorry for late reply, have been preoccupied  last few days.

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I witnessed a guy get the tip of a finger chopped off.  he was pushing up on the cam while another was pushing it into the block..  I told him he needed a wooden dowel or stick..  Ooops,, Oh well.. 

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2 minutes ago, Joey Mack said:

I witnessed a guy get the tip of a finger chopped off.  he was pushing up on the cam while another was pushing it into the block..  I told him he needed a wooden dowel or stick..  Ooops,, Oh well.. 

I didn't see you standing there.  other nine are so crooked I don't notice the shorter one any more. 

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clothes pins are good for this engine,,, the ones I build have much heavier lifters, hence the stronger clips..  :) 

 

Oh Yeah...  the ones I do dont have removable side panels...  I wish they did!!

Edited by Joey Mack
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11 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

clothes pins are good for this engine,,, the ones I build have much heavier lifters, hence the stronger clips..  :) 

 

Oh Yeah...  the ones I do dont have removable side panels...  I wish they did!!

3am this morning laying in bed staring at ceiling thinking of this post.  I know I've taken the center nut (1 1/8th ?? ) off used a puller and taken the pump drive off WITHOUT  changing the timing on pump by moving the 4 bolts. STILL HAVE TO SET ALL THE TIMING MARKS before any removing.  shaft has a key way /key . can't remember the shaft set up 

I didn't know the "new" engines eliminated the side covers . clothes pins gone with the dinosaurs (and me) guess. 

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I do that too..  Will wake up thinking about my work...  I also realized I posted info about the lifter sticks I made and why, and I forgot about the side covers on the E-6.. Silly Me !!   

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A zip tie around each lifter should create just enough friction to hold each lifter in place if I recall correctly. Been a few years since we've swapped cams in our endt676, but we've done it a few times, pays to have a few spare engines to pull cams and lifters from... 

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No rollers... The facing on the bottom of the valve lifter flakes off..  jojo

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Update, finally had time to work on it today, intake lifter for #1 is bad, my machine shop said the cam might be savable. We we’ll see I guess, if not he said he can cut me a new one. He also said he can build me a new lifter as well. All 11 others look fine.  

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On 6/12/2023 at 9:16 PM, Max.superliner said:

Update, finally had time to work on it today, intake lifter for #1 is bad, my machine shop said the cam might be savable. We we’ll see I guess, if not he said he can cut me a new one. He also said he can build me a new lifter as well. All 11 others look fine.  

2A2235A0-84FD-43F4-946B-66F80B942B9A.jpeg

72C5AC73-DC24-47E5-8D08-70DF3E6BFE93.jpeg

for parts that involved to change, one goes bad ;; 11 others follow soon ??  I personally would search out all 12 "updated " lifters. time and $$ possible: end results you might not have to look at the front engine gearing for a while.  

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