1962 B67 (Getting it Yard Moving)

[mowerman]

13 hours ago, JAvery289 said:

I literally used most of the can of PB at the end of the day to spray down all of the fittings that connect to the injectors, they looked like they were going to be a fight. Most things so far have come apart pretty quickly and easily. 

 

Monday I'll be ordering up the main supply line that feeds the air starter from the air start tank. 

Excellent don’t forget to change the oil and filters and if your pull  starting it, keep an eye on the oil gauge  best of luck, bud sounds really exciting and like these guy said the rims are very easy to fine tubeless. I’m going to be using them myself…. Bob

[mowerman]

Of course make sure the motor turns after lubrication best of luck… Bob

[JAvery289]

On 4/9/2023 at 10:57 AM, mowerman said:

Excellent don’t forget to change the oil and filters and if your pull  starting it, keep an eye on the oil gauge  best of luck, bud sounds really exciting and like these guy said the rims are very easy to fine tubeless. I’m going to be using them myself…. Bob

I was planning on doing the oil change next Monday, I have some orders coming up for 4 days (Army) so sadly I won't be able to work on it over the weekend. Are the filter cartridges readily available? I did some googling and wasn't able to find anything useful other than folks changing out from the cartridge style of filter to the spin-on style. I was going to go with good ole Rotella T4, unless the community thinks there is a better option? Do I need to run any type of additive in the oil for wear?

Might as well ask this now, what engine family is the ENDT673P? I was poking around looking for gasket sets and all I can come up with is a gasket set for E6 series, if those will work then that's sweet. I'm sure that as soon as I resurrect this beast every seal will begin leaking, and I'd like to get ahead of the 8-ball if at all possible. 

I did order Mack TS442 (mine is copyrighted 1978) there's a wealth of information in there that you just don't see now in modern service manuals; however, I didn't see any reference to part numbers for filters or gaskets, and only briefly mentions ESI Plus "spin-on" filters in the "maintenance" section.

I don't plan on pull starting it, I'm waiting on some new braided air line for the air starter feed, I was able to get the in-cab valve freed up and blown out the other day. Also added a few squirts of ATF to the air starter to give the phenolic vanes a fighting chance. 

As always, I appreciate any and all feedback, I'm here to learn from the best. 

Attached is a picture of the 'donor' truck. 

[mowerman]

Excellent man army man love it. Thanks for your service. I’m sorry I cannot help you. I am 3000 miles away. I am sure it’s a sock filter. I don’t know where to buy them air starter. They work real well but they run out of air really quick so you have to have everything just so And spare air available. Some of these other fellows might be able to send you in the right direction. Best of luck. Most of the stuff on there is a ready and available . You just have to find it. Freight Train is pretty good for information. I’m sure he’ll be sounding off soon. . Most everything is available as I mention except for the engine and transmission. I have the same engine in my DM. Fortunately, I don’t need anything except a bunch of small stuff.: as far as additives no the Rotella is just fine

[mowerman]

[mowerman]

This is what the oil filter looks like when you’re looking asked for a luberfiner element I’m sure you could find one a little closer. Good luck bud.

[mowerman]

Might think I’m crazy, but try AutoZone first or you would be surprised what they can get for you. I found a fuel filter for mine through cross reference just a couple of years ago.

[mowerman]

They had one right in stock and Home Depot carries a lot of air and fuel connections

[mechohaulic]

11 hours ago, JAvery289 said:

I was planning on doing the oil change next Monday, I have some orders coming up for 4 days (Army) so sadly I won't be able to work on it over the weekend. Are the filter cartridges readily available? I did some googling and wasn't able to find anything useful other than folks changing out from the cartridge style of filter to the spin-on style. I was going to go with good ole Rotella T4, unless the community thinks there is a better option? Do I need to run any type of additive in the oil for wear?

Might as well ask this now, what engine family is the ENDT673P? I was poking around looking for gasket sets and all I can come up with is a gasket set for E6 series, if those will work then that's sweet. I'm sure that as soon as I resurrect this beast every seal will begin leaking, and I'd like to get ahead of the 8-ball if at all possible. 

I did order Mack TS442 (mine is copyrighted 1978) there's a wealth of information in there that you just don't see now in modern service manuals; however, I didn't see any reference to part numbers for filters or gaskets, and only briefly mentions ESI Plus "spin-on" filters in the "maintenance" section.

I don't plan on pull starting it, I'm waiting on some new braided air line for the air starter feed, I was able to get the in-cab valve freed up and blown out the other day. Also added a few squirts of ATF to the air starter to give the phenolic vanes a fighting chance. 

As always, I appreciate any and all feedback, I'm here to learn from the best. 

Attached is a picture of the 'donor' truck. 

when you mentioned a P&W  was a donor , didn't expect it to be in abandon condition.  still should be quite a few good parts or fix it as a runner. have seen units on here or else where in worse shape .

[JAvery289]

1 hour ago, mechohaulic said:

when you mentioned a P&W  was a donor , didn't expect it to be in abandon condition.  still should be quite a few good parts or fix it as a runner. have seen units on here or else where in worse shape .

It probably would run, but the frame is ahot beyond fixing.  I'm going to be stripping it for parts/ engine/trans, small parts.

[mechohaulic]

time seems to take its toll on just about everything (and ever body). no matter what "preservatives" taken.  20 minutes I'm on my way to physical therapy. sure hope it works ; next step the knife if it don't. 😱

[mechohaulic]

high hopes you get one running, it's a sound way better then todays electronic stuff. like Matt's B-73 there will be many up & downs to the building process but well worth it in the end.  😁 

[JAvery289]

7 hours ago, mechohaulic said:

time seems to take its toll on just about everything (and ever body). no matter what "preservatives" taken.  20 minutes I'm on my way to physical therapy. sure hope it works ; next step the knife if it don't. 😱

Oh man, I hope they can straighten you out! Or at least better than the frame rails are looking on that old dog. Hopefully they can stave off any kind or surgery, have a good friend of mine whose had three fusions done on his back after 25 years on the fire department. Hope you feel better!

[Freightrain]

Good luck with your project.

I put air start on my truck a few years back.  I used a tank mounted air operated valve.  Works flawless and will hold air for 7 months.  That old steam valve will be troublesome and likely leak air out overnight.

I also installed an oiler inline with the starter.  Takes some fuel from return line and shoots it in the starter to keep it lubed.  Works well.

 

You may want to pull cover from injection pump and make sure plungers go up/down.  When I got the 237 for my truck, two were stuck.  PB and a screwdriver got them moving.

 

https://youtu.be/FEG3vjqI6fk

 

[h67st]

Looks like yours has the Luberfiner 750c oil filter, Zoro has them for $19.00. This page has the measurements on it, you could measure your old element to match it up. My truck has the shorter Luberfiner 500c.

https://www.zoro.com/baldwin-filters-oil-filter-element-by-pass-c750-e/i/G4465605/?utm_source=google&utm_medium=surfaces&utm_campaign=shopping feed&utm_content=free google shopping clicks&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIk6n8sbGp_gIVFAizAB1wVgh7EAQYBSABEgJcJvD_BwE

You'll also need a cover o-ring, part # 2788, or Baldwin # G309-B. Zoro doesn't seem to carry them.

[mechohaulic]

another example of "cost cutting"  seems. :: like buying box of brake shoes and hardware kits are separate. now your saying the oil filter -luberfiner doesn't come with an o-ring..  possibly due to fact the one filter has a number of applications having different canisters ===I hope .!

[mowerman]

Nice going Larry I had not thought of the fuel pump and to replace them is not cheap by the way my 28 year old air starter parts still hold air as long as yours does and don’t forget to tell this guy changing that oil filter is a real mess ha ha… Bob

[mowerman]

Also, I was unaware new socks filter does not come with the O-ring 

[mowerman]

I would like to get rid of that thing myself, but finding a spin on set up around here is like trying to find your lost cat that ran off five years ago

[mowerman]

On 4/14/2023 at 7:29 AM, mechohaulic said:

another example of "cost cutting"  seems. :: like buying box of brake shoes and hardware kits are separate. now your saying the oil filter -luberfiner doesn't come with an o-ring..  possibly due to fact the one filter has a number of applications having different canisters ===I hope .!

That’s probably just what it is or at least that’s what they’re telling you

[JAvery289]

Hello All!

Sorry for some radio silence, I was away on some military orders and had no access to the internet for quite a bit. 

Anyhow, I came back last Friday and had to take care of normal household task first, and then I was able to take some time (in the rain) on Saturday and get the old blue parts truck out of its grave and back to the shop. Here are some pictures for your enjoyment 😃

This weekend I will begin stripping the truck for anything and everything that I deem still useful/salvageable. If there are any suggestions of what to save I would love to hear them. Also there has been a few individuals that have PMed me looking for parts; if I can spare them I will help out wherever I can. 

[yarnall]

If you have the room you should keep it together.  It’s nice to have a parts truck around.  You never know what you will need get minute you send it down the road.  

[mechohaulic]

1=THANK YOU for YOUR SERVICE.   2= the list of things to "throw away " is shorter than what to keep. most times that's not practical, yet there will be days of + darn I shouldn't have thrown that away. 

[mechohaulic]

thanks for the update also

[JAvery289]

50 minutes ago, yarnall said:

If you have the room you should keep it together.  It’s nice to have a parts truck around.  You never know what you will need get minute you send it down the road.  

Yarnall,

I would love to keep both trucks, however space is limited at the truck shop and my neighbors are uptight about derelict vehicles bringing down their property value. I've already had the PD at my house investigating an "illegal auto-repair facility" (the joys of living in a Connecticut shoreline town). Hence the entire reason on this thread, the red truck needs to be mobile so I can hide it on my property out of view of the road and nosey neighbors. 

The blue truck is REALLY rough. I'll take more pictures over the weekend. When I went to go tow it, I attempted to move the shift sticks and the clutch pedal, and they are rusted solid. I can probably stow a lot of the running gear in the old woodworking shop in my back yard, but the frame, cab, and all but the driver side door glass is trash and far beyond their expiration date.