1962 B67 (Getting it Yard Moving)

[JAvery289]

1 minute ago, mechohaulic said:

1=THANK YOU for YOUR SERVICE.   2= the list of things to "throw away " is shorter than what to keep. most times that's not practical, yet there will be days of + darn I shouldn't have thrown that away. 

I appreciate your support! I felt the group deserved an explanation as to why a new member just vanished for nearly a month. 

Also, I'm well aware (unfortunately) that as soon as I discard what I thought was trash...I'm going to need it. Though any input beyond what I'm thinking is appreciated.

Here's my list:

Mirror brackets, cab clearance lights, air wiper motors, steering column, entire dash assembly, doghouse, driver and passenger seat frames, window regulators, any good glass I find, good (or reasonably serviceable weather stripping, front axle, front hubs, maybe the engine/trans, prop shaft, hood, radiator, Kysor radiator shutters, radiator facia, air horns, emblems, Passenger side door, fuel tanks? (unknown condition, missing cap on one side) battery box top, 5th wheel, maybe the crossmember that supports the back of the cab, oil bath air cleaner and all requisite pipes/boots, front bumper, asbestos exhaust manifold shields, steering gear. 

 

Things that are totally shot: cab, driver side door, frame (double frame rust jacking apart), fenders (massive rust holes and bent), transmission [duplex]? (Refuses to come out of gear even with a 200-pound gorilla reefing on it), tires, rims (scarry rusted), exhaust stack (other truck came factory with under side exhaust).

[mowerman]

Rules and regulations aint they a  bitch I am glad I live in a hillbilly town everything goes sorry bud hope you get it all figured out thanks for the updates there’s certainly a lot there to work with good luck bud… Bob

[Terry T]

That stack looks to be in good shape (on the parts truck) Hang on to that.  I know a few years back there were some guys looking for them. 

[mowerman]

You certainly got enough there to keep you busy…. Have a ball   Doors and fenders can’t be repaired samewith the cab, meg welder and  sheet metal. Home Depot rents the Mig Welder  lots of practice you’re not going to get it right the first time but save a lot of money. Hope that helps. Good luck.Bob

[mechohaulic]

make a few phone calls to people such as Matt phahl  or other CT people before the phone call to scrap yard. I only rent here in watertown with possibility of moving or I would gladly store stuff for you.

[mowerman]

Yeah, same here but I’m 3000 miles away that sucks when you have to mess with the system just to have a few things that you want … Bob

[yarnall]

I understand what you are saying, but whole truck might take up less space than the pile of parts. Your list sounds pretty good. Maybe keep a wheel or two just in case and the rear crossmember if it is straight.   Or all crossmembers.  Air tanks too.   

[Hayseed]

You Need a High Fence (Or a Hedge) so the Nosey Neighbors can't see what Treasure you Have...!!

[JAvery289]

On 5/2/2023 at 11:05 PM, Terry T said:

That stack looks to be in good shape (on the parts truck) Hang on to that.  I know a few years back there were some guys looking for them. 

 

On 5/3/2023 at 10:37 AM, mechohaulic said:

make a few phone calls to people such as Matt phahl  or other CT people before the phone call to scrap yard. I only rent here in watertown with possibility of moving or I would gladly store stuff for you.

 

21 hours ago, mowerman said:

Yeah, same here but I’m 3000 miles away that sucks when you have to mess with the system just to have a few things that you want … Bob

 

20 hours ago, yarnall said:

I understand what you are saying, but whole truck might take up less space than the pile of parts. Your list sounds pretty good. Maybe keep a wheel or two just in case and the rear crossmember if it is straight.   Or all crossmembers.  Air tanks too.   

Terry--I can definitely keep the stack, if there is interest from anyone on here (I know it would be expensive to ship).

 Mechohaulic-- I've heard of Matt, might have seen him at a truck show at some point, I'd be happy to barter with folks for things that I need. I appreciate the offer if you had it. I can maybe get away with keeping the blue one for a little while at the shop until the Boss notices it shoved in the "back 40" (He does know its there, he just has bigger fish to fry).

 

Bob--Yeah, I wanted a property that only had one neighbor....(unfortunately they are the nosey ones) and across the street is a private golf course that doesn't appreciate loud air hammering, or loud diesel trucks (its ok, I still sometimes bring home a 50ton wrecker and park it across my lawn!)😃

 

Yarnall--I have an old woodworking shop in my back yard (12x16) that has become a parts-crib for wayward 1980's Ford F Series parts, and now Mack truck parts. Over last weekend I cleaned up and organized and made room for all the Mack parts that will soon occupy the space, the biggest item will be the front axle. 

Not sure of the integrity of the air tanks, they look suspect, I'll hit them with the needle scaler see how it looks after, rear most crossmember is not great (metal is pretty thin). Friday Night-Sunday afternoon is going to be a lot of cutting, torching, and wrenching on the old blue truck. I'll post pictures, maybe a youtube video IF I can get it started. 

 

Thank you all for your continued input and advice! I really appreciate it!

[mowerman]

Right on man sounds like a plan… Bob

[mowerman]

Oh, I was just thinking if you can’t move the shifters, the auxiliary stick is probably stuck in have  to get underneath it undo the linkage One of them is caught between two gears that is a common issue with a two stick. Good luck 

[JAvery289]

So this past weekend was slow going, I had more interuptions than needed; but that's life.

Got the parts truck pulled up to where the shop air would reach and started the process of stripping.

Things that should have fought me did not, and simple things became massive projects. Got both doors gutted and found that the bottom quarter on each had already been re-skinned. Its always neat to see how body work was done back in I assume the 70's, simple sheet riveted in and mudded up. 

If anyone wants the door shells let me know, I feel they are more work than it's worth. 

Spent way too much time getting the transmission freed up, and I was able to press the clutch....once and now it is frozen released. Then spent about an hour freeing up the engine and now it turns over easy with a 6ft cheater bar on the crank. 

Threw some juice to the starter and the bendix comes out but the starter motor does nothing. It is a 24v starter. Anybody have a part numver for a rebuild kit? Or better yet a 12v conversion kit? 

I took less pictures than planned, and no video as there was no starting the beast with a bum starter. 

[mechohaulic]

if it is a 24 v starter for sure , before condemning the starter check wiring and between seats (or battery box) for a series parallel switch. may be 24 on start ;system  will be 12 or 6 for running.  push button signals  = I like it.!!

[mechohaulic]

what did you use for batteries on start attempt ???    one 12 v/s  2-12v  or other set up. with a s/p switch one 12 might not be enough  unless using a over size 12 from a dozer or equipt  type. trace the system .didn't see battery box/boxes .possibly two boxes on passenger side held 4 = 6 volt batteries at one time and changed threw out time.

[mechohaulic]

those picture show so much for useable parts . which may look like junk. as has been mentioned in earlier post ; many times easier to keep entire unit intact  although not always able.

[doubleclutchinweasel]

1 hour ago, mechohaulic said:

if it is a 24 v starter for sure , before condemning the starter check wiring and between seats (or battery box) for a series parallel switch. may be 24 on start ;system  will be 12 or 6 for running.  push button signals  = I like it.!!

Yep.  If it's a 24V starter, pretty much need 2 12V batteries!  And, like you said, the wiring and Series/Parallel switch has to be good.

I have wired 2 12V batteries in series using jumper cables to test a 24V starter before.  That starter spun fine.  Ended up being the wiring going to the starter on that one.

[Brocky]

Definitely save that push button turn signal switch!!!! There are not many of them left for original restorations.. 

[mowerman]

Thanks for keeping us posted bud. Yes life in general takes up all your time. Ha ha by the time you get a few minutes to play with the toys you’re too tired and wind up watching TV.

[mowerman]

Sounds like your throw out bearing is stuck. If you can get up in there and spray all around it my God how long is that thing been sitting?Bob

[doubleclutchinweasel]

36 minutes ago, mowerman said:

Sounds like your throw out bearing is stuck. If you can get up in there and spray all around it my God how long is that thing been sitting?Bob

Throwout bearing stuck on the snout, or the cross shaft stuck in the housing.  Either way, should free up pretty easily.  Wouldn't you think, Bob?

[mowerman]

Yes for sure also take more time before trying to start it you should be able to turn engine by holding the fan belt turn on the fan

[mechohaulic]

13 hours ago, mowerman said:

Thanks for keeping us posted bud. Yes life in general takes up all your time. Ha ha by the time you get a few minutes to play with the toys you’re too tired and wind up watching TV.

he's not playing with toys!!!he's doing his part to keep history alive.. sounds soooo much better when static from "other half" bout wasting time on junk ::LOL  . 

[JAvery289]

21 hours ago, Brocky said:

Definitely save that push button turn signal switch!!!! There are not many of them left for original restorations.. 

I was wondering what that thing was, I figured it had something to do with the anchient snow plow setup the truck has! I'll save it. 

[JAvery289]

On 5/8/2023 at 11:06 AM, mechohaulic said:

what did you use for batteries on start attempt ???    one 12 v/s  2-12v  or other set up. with a s/p switch one 12 might not be enough  unless using a over size 12 from a dozer or equipt  type. trace the system .didn't see battery box/boxes .possibly two boxes on passenger side held 4 = 6 volt batteries at one time and changed threw out time.

 

23 hours ago, doubleclutchinweasel said:

Yep.  If it's a 24V starter, pretty much need 2 12V batteries!  And, like you said, the wiring and Series/Parallel switch has to be good.

I have wired 2 12V batteries in series using jumper cables to test a 24V starter before.  That starter spun fine.  Ended up being the wiring going to the starter on that one.

 

4 hours ago, doubleclutchinweasel said:

Throwout bearing stuck on the snout, or the cross shaft stuck in the housing.  Either way, should free up pretty easily.  Wouldn't you think, Bob?

So I was using two 12v 65 series batteries 990CCA each wired up for 24 and directly jumping the lugs on starter itself.

I would not trust any of the electrical on this truck it's all mouse chewed, chopped, ripped out etc. 

Truck was last used as a site plow truck into the 90's and when they ran out of budget for new structural floormat it was parked and sold as scrap to where I got it.. 

I'm not overly worried if the bearing is stuck, engine and trans will be comming out as soon as I assess the engines runability. 

[mechohaulic]

had to take a moment to ponder the welded pipe on front bumper;;; then realized/remembered  it was a protective shield for driveshaft that ran plow pump. just for sake of conversation and based on unfortunate experience ;;I would highly recommend a small block of wood under the extension where breaker bar goes through pipe or under second extension to keep socket square on crank bolt. best is a second set of hands assisting, when the bar slips while you are pushing down you are apt to go for a heck of a tumble ;; just sayin