2002 CH613 E7 460 Injectors

[Mark22300]

Well i got around to pulling the EUP and sweet baby Jesus was looking down upon me and extended a miracle, roller is in good shape cam is fine. The EUP on the other hand blew apart as you see in the photo when i popped it out of its hole, the gold plunger seems to have gotten past the retaining clip and was possibly sitting loose in the hole or maybe just not assembled properly? Im not sure if that was the cause of the issues or if that happened due to the sudden release of it being under the pressure of the spring that aloud the plunger to get past the retaining clip, there's also a wear mark in the golden coating as seen in the last photo. possibly a contributing factor to the infrequent 8-4 code. 

I ordered a new EUP from https://mydieselpro.com/ the guy I talked to was very helpful and was under half the price Mack wanted for one. ill toss the new one in and hopefully that fixes that. 

[fjh]

You may have sticky plunger in that pump it’s just something to try! 

[Joey Mack]

Where is the D-Clip that secures the piston.?  the Gold thingy...  The new EUP will be complete..But you dont need a hardened spring steel piece dancin around in there..  

 

does the EUP roller have scratches that you can catch a finger nail on?  It looks scratched to me in the picture..  I'm not trying to be a Dick.. jojo

[Mark22300]

38 minutes ago, Joey Mack said:

Where is the D-Clip that secures the piston.?  the Gold thingy...  The new EUP will be complete..But you dont need a hardened spring steel piece dancin around in there..  

 

does the EUP roller have scratches that you can catch a finger nail on?  It looks scratched to me in the picture..  I'm not trying to be a Dick.. jojo

the D clip is still on the eup, it doesn't quite hold it in i was able to make it pop past even after i reassembled it. and no the roller is completely smooth its probley the lighting making it look scratched but ill pull it out again and double check just to be sure

[Mark22300]

44 minutes ago, Joey Mack said:

Where is the D-Clip that secures the piston.?  the Gold thingy...  The new EUP will be complete..But you dont need a hardened spring steel piece dancin around in there..  

 

does the EUP roller have scratches that you can catch a finger nail on?  It looks scratched to me in the picture..  I'm not trying to be a Dick.. jojo

this is the d clip right?

[Joey Mack]

Ok,, I wanted to ask..  It can be hard to tell from a picture, and I Know these engines quite well, and wouldnt want to see a scratched roller put back in..  Keep on- keepin-on..  Jojo

[fjh]

7 hours ago, Mark22300 said:

what would that do? could it be a issue with the oil? i run shell rotella 15w-40 at the moment 

If you got a sticky or lazy plunger it may help just something to try!

[Joey Mack]

Yes...thats the clip. it should not have allowed the piston to drop out..  anyway. you have a new EUP on the way, just inspect all the old parts for issues, to get an idea of what happened, then reassemble it for the 'core return'..  You seem to be doing a good job here..   be sure to clean the champher on the EUP bore, before you install the new EUP.  dont want to cut the oring..  New EUP cap screws torque down 25ish lbft,1st, set,,,,, then finish at 60 lbft..  jojo

[R.E.D]

On 5/21/2023 at 10:29 AM, Mark22300 said:

Well i got around to pulling the EUP and sweet baby Jesus was looking down upon me and extended a miracle, roller is in good shape cam is fine. The EUP on the other hand blew apart as you see in the photo when i popped it out of its hole, the gold plunger seems to have gotten past the retaining clip and was possibly sitting loose in the hole or maybe just not assembled properly? Im not sure if that was the cause of the issues or if that happened due to the sudden release of it being under the pressure of the spring that aloud the plunger to get past the retaining clip, there's also a wear mark in the golden coating as seen in the last photo. possibly a contributing factor to the infrequent 8-4 code. 

I ordered a new EUP from https://mydieselpro.com/ the guy I talked to was very helpful and was under half the price Mack wanted for one. ill toss the new one in and hopefully that fixes that. 

If you ever do this job again, it is best to rotate the engine so the cam lobe it's not pushing on the eup spring. If the eup would have been good, it could have gotten damaged from flying out of that hole... Same for  procedure for installation.. and if by any chance you have ceramic eup rollers , don't drop them in and let them hit the cam.

[Mark22300]

17 hours ago, R.E.D said:

If you ever do this job again, it is best to rotate the engine so the cam lobe it's not pushing on the eup spring. If the eup would have been good, it could have gotten damaged from flying out of that hole... Same for  procedure for installation.. and if by any chance you have ceramic eup rollers , don't drop them in and let them hit the cam.

im pretty sure it shot out because the retaining clip wasn't holding the piston in, ill know tomorrow when the new eup shows up. and the roller is all metal i believe 

[Joey Mack]

I bet It shot out, because you took both of the EUP bolts out, rather than using one of them to slowly raise the EUP. The thin metal clip doesn't hold the spring and plunger in place. The bottom cap does.  With the spring removed, the clip keeps the plunger in place.  The plunger is delicate, and is not to be held in bare hands.. 

[R.E.D]

On 5/24/2023 at 2:03 PM, Joey Mack said:

I bet It shot out, because you took both of the EUP bolts out, rather than using one of them to slowly raise the EUP. The thin metal clip doesn't hold the spring and plunger in place. The bottom cap does.  With the spring removed, the clip keeps the plunger in place.  The plunger is delicate, and is not to be held in bare hands.. 

Agreed..I usually back out the eup hold down bolts a couple turns.then pry on the corner of the eup to break the seat of the orings..if under pressure from the cam lobe , they eup will lift without much effort...then I rotate the engine to allow the spring to decompress..Joey you're correct..the plunger is made to precise tolerances.and should be removed from eup in a clean environment...when I took all my eups to get tested..the injection shop tech told me that the slightest spec of debris could cause the plunger to bind.

 

[Mark22300]

well my injector codes and issues went away now im getting a intermittent 4-5 code and the truck wont build more then 18psi of boost when that code shows up. typically it'll come on the most when im hauling a heavy load. exactly when you need you boost lol. any ideas?

i also have a valve or something that wont want to purge and will just piss air until it finally purges and goes away but i don't think its related as it never drops the air pressure on my gauges. i don't believe its the air dryer because i just replaced it but that exactly what it sounds like when it finally purges after pissing air. 

[Mark22300]

forgot to mention it just started hard starting when this 4-5 code showed up, will crank and fire then die then fire up on the 2nd try. 

[Mackpro]

There is a bulletin on putting the EUP back together if you have one that has popped apart. I’ll attach it here. Also they do make oversized EUP roller guide pins if you ever get into a situation where you need to replace one and the original size pin is not tight . https://www.scribd.com/document/372397084/MAck-Bomba-Unitaria

[R.E.D]

On 6/27/2023 at 10:59 PM, Mark22300 said:

well my injector codes and issues went away now im getting a intermittent 4-5 code and the truck wont build more then 18psi of boost when that code shows up. typically it'll come on the most when im hauling a heavy load. exactly when you need you boost lol. any ideas?

i also have a valve or something that wont want to purge and will just piss air until it finally purges and goes away but i don't think its related as it never drops the air pressure on my gauges. i don't believe its the air dryer because i just replaced it but that exactly what it sounds like when it finally purges after pissing air. 

I had this issue...and it's the air dryer constantly blowing air out.. remember air compressor is feed clean boosted air from your intake manifold....my would purge and would not build boost...all the sudden it would purge and boost would shoot back up....I'm not saying your 4-5 code isn't also causing issues,but definitely take a look at you air dryer....this low boost condition causes  really high egt and if you don't have a pyro ,you could cause damage to your engine.

Just my .02 cents 

 

RED

[Mark22300]

On 7/1/2023 at 9:42 AM, R.E.D said:

I had this issue...and it's the air dryer constantly blowing air out.. remember air compressor is feed clean boosted air from your intake manifold....my would purge and would not build boost...all the sudden it would purge and boost would shoot back up....I'm not saying your 4-5 code isn't also causing issues,but definitely take a look at you air dryer....this low boost condition causes  really high egt and if you don't have a pyro ,you could cause damage to your engine.

Just my .02 cents 

 

RED

i replaced my air dryer 2 or 3 months ago and nothing changed. the leaking air was happening before the derating issue, could this be a failing air compressor loosing boost? my egts have never gotten past 1000 (1000 away from the red zone)  even in this derated limp mode. ive gotten a 2-2 code and this 2-4 code. normally the 2-2 is only on start up and the 2-4 is when pulling and pushing boost. never shown up together. 

Ive applied 30psi to the waste gate and it opens and closes fine, no air leaks in the Blatter. 

i did dump my air tanks for the first time in for ever and i noticed what looked like engine oil or maybe just rusty shitty water come out? makes me suspect the compressor more?

ive replaced the one valve right above the intake air filter as well i cant remember what its called, kinda like the brains i was told.

[Joey Mack]

Was that valve the air governor(D-2)? It may be mounted near the air filter housing..

[Geoff Weeks]

If you are blowing boost out of the drier, that is one problem, it will show with the turbo spooled. If however it will blow a lot out of the drier at idle, then it is the check valve between the drier and wet tank. System builds until purge, then the wet tank blows back through the drier. Causes rapid cycling. There should be a check in the outlet of the drier.

 Without knowing how and when it is blowing out the drier, and type of drier I can't help more.  To tell the truth, I am not up on any driers newer than the AD-9.

 Most driers have a large discharge of air when the valve opens and then a diminishing amount as the purge volume is discharged, picking up the moisture trapped in the drier on its way out.

 AD-4 and AD-9's had a rubber "check valve" on the top of the element that allowed free flow in the forward direction. There is a much smaller hole in the top that the reverse air has to pass though, so purge is slower. Often these checks will break off and dump the entire purge air all at once.  AD-9's were prone to the threaded base wearing and the element, loosening and flopping around inside (doing no good at all)

[Mark22300]

 

5 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

Was that valve the air governor(D-2)? It may be mounted near the air filter housing..

this is the part i replaced. and this is the air dryer. i only hear the air pissing when im speeding up and sometimes it purges and quits but other times it just keeps pissing, let go of the gas and it stops. i will try to get a video of it maybe here

[Joey Mack]

you have a D-2 air governor and an AD-9 air dryer..  In my opinion, the best air regulating system..  what is the high air pressure reading on the gauge? the Gov. is adjustable.. if needed..  

[Onyx610]

Change the purge valve and check for air leaks between the governor and dryer 

[Geoff Weeks]

Ok, if you have large amounts of air coming out at idle that continues longer than normal, the check valve is accessible on the bottom of the AD-9. Remove the tube that enters the drier from the bottom, then remove the large brass nut and the check valve will come out with it.

 I would check the drier cartage, remove the ring of bolts and check to see the cartage is still firmly screwed into the base.

 To be fair, we are all guessing without more description of what is happening when.

Based on just the description of venting too much air, I can come up with quite a list of things it could be

Edited July 6, 2023 by Geoff Weeks

[Onyx610]

There’s a turbo cut off valve in that purge valve. 

[Geoff Weeks]

Also confusing thing is there are two people relating air problems on two different trucks. Loss of boost through the drier is the turbo cut off mentioned, loss of air when the turbo isn't producing boost is another problem all together.