How to remove rear diff center on 46160 meritor ?

[Mark T]

Is that a locker ? If it is you'll need to cage the sliding clutch. Remove the air fitting and if I remember correctly you'll use a 3/8 fine thread bolt in through the hole you take the fitting out.   Make a couple long studs same size as a bolt you remove around the carrier. When you slide the carrier out of the housing on the studs it'll be easier to balance it with one of the then exposed flange bolt holes.  This component is a couple hundred pounds. 

[The Nitro]

Just got axles out.

 

Was I supposed to do the cage thing before taking axles out? 

[Mark T]

Yes

[The Nitro]

Yes its got 2 different locker buttons in the cab.

theres a bolt in here that looks like its doing nothing?? So your saying I take my air fitting off that Ive taped up and maybe this bolt goes back inside where air fitting is??

how tight do i do it and am i supposed to put lock on or off in cab first?

 

thanks

[The Nitro]

Oh damn, so what damage have I done by taking axle out?? 

[The Nitro]

Should i put axle back in?

[Joey Mack]

what i was taught, and had to do, was to remove the air fitting and put the caging bolt in the  hole. there are threads deep in the hole. the bolt will secure the shift fork when you pull the axels..  otherwise the fork will drop, and then you have to pull the pumpkin out..  

[Hayseed]

I'd be a redneck, & just let it fall onto the ground..!!!

Take a set of wheels off & roll it out. Pick It up & take It wherever to be repaired.

Roll it back Under & then Lift it up with the Bobcat, to reinstall It..!

[The Nitro]

Ok, well im already pulling the pumpkin out so maybe I could put the fork in right spot and do the caging bolt thing before i put pumpkin back in? 

[The Nitro]

The problem is I’m taking pumpkin out and taking it to myself to be repaired lol. 
 

[The Nitro]

Nearly there, I caged the fork in full length of that cage bolt. Pumpkin didnt want to come forward without yolk caged. 

[The Nitro]

 

Out

[The Nitro]

Ok found the missing bolt head and washer. 
cogs look ok to my rookie eye?

 

 

 

 

[The Nitro]

 

 

[The Nitro]

Going to try weld a nut onto that broken bolt and see if I can get it out somehow

[The Nitro]

Soon as I shovel some crap off my workbench lol

[The Nitro]

Cut a nut in half and welded to broken bolt. Will see if I’m lucky or not 

[The Nitro]

Worked!!

next trick is to take the big cap thing off, maybe mark it and try get bolt all the way out

[The Nitro]

My fun has came to the end. My 3/4 impact wrench wont budge these 2 bolts 

[The Nitro]

Wheel lug nut cracker to the rescue!!

 

had to cut the 32mm socket in half to get it to grab but meh, I’m up almost a grand today already in saved labour hahaha. 

[The Nitro]

That’s all I can do today, will try find a bolt tomorrow.

thanks for the help guys so far.

 

 

[Joey Mack]

You are a hard working guy.. your dillegence is working..  with the bearing cap off, be mindful that if you put a lot of force on the diff. Assembly, you may affect bearing pre load..  just keep doing it like you are... You are doing really good..

[Geoff Weeks]

You might have to back off the bearing adjusting nut on the side you are working on, esp when you go to put the cap back on. If you haven't disturbed the other side, the backlash should not be effected. If you mark the adjuster nut on the side you are working on, you can back it off and when the cap is back on, tighten back to where it was.

 If that isn't possible or you already disturbed the bearing nut, on re assembly tighten until 0 play, rotate the ring gear through a few revolutions to seat the bearings, and tighten on more "tooth" on the nut, and recheck the pre load. You want an little (0 preload isn't good) but not much, just a little resistance felt at the ring gear.

I am curious as to what cause the bolt to let go. That is not a problem I normally find.

 I don't know if they have change MFG assembly or if that diff has had some hands in it before. Single speed diff's I worked on all had the ring gear riveted to the diff when they came from the factory. If it was replaced, the rivets would be drilled and bolts used for the new gear. 2 Spd diffs bolted together. Replacement ring gears  for single speed had a bolt kit, but from the factory rivets.

Bolts for the case 1/2's normally got locktite, older models had drilled heads and safety wire. Same for the bearing cap bolts.

Edited June 29, 2023 by Geoff Weeks
ment "haven't disturbed other side"

[Geoff Weeks]

Good thing you caught it, a hardened washer or bolt head, could do a lot of damage. I had a thrust washer pass through a ring gear and pinion. took most of a tooth off the pinion. At least there was enough left to drive home.

[mechohaulic]

12 hours ago, The Nitro said:

Tailshaft out, going good so far. Will use a new uni.

 

guess that's why it is said --a picture is worth a thousand words, makes replies so much easier looking at pictures to understand  situation. thanks for pictures also looks as though you have your act together .  fact you asked advice  first also show intelligence.