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hello, I don’t mean any disrespect to anyone on the site. I am looking for a resident wizard on the E7 350 mechanical fuel system. 
  I have read countless posts on here but they do not get into the specifics of fuel settings etc and many have a lot of folks chiming in with their two cents but actually have very little experience with this specific fuel system. 
  Any help would be greatly appreciated ! 
thanks 

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It would be a Robert Bosch pump of that era. The easiest way to tell is where you screw your injector line on. The Robert Bosch pump has a extremely fine spline barrel nut that takes a special socket to remove the barrel and replace pump washers. The American Bosch pump was way more low profile where the injector lines screwed on. The fine tuning of the pumps were not done at the dealerships. This was a pump shop type of repair/adjustment. However like some people said I remember removing the top cover marking the position of the sliding rail with a punch and moving it forward and test driving. I’ll see if I have any information on it in my old manuals at work 

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Proper pump  timing is crucial for best performance. Using a Kent Moore A-B light , set the pump timing 1 degree higher than what the tag on the valve cover . Never more than 1.5 degrees or overheating will probably happen. We rarely ever messed with the pump .  Good injectors, turbo, valves adjusted correctly, throttle linkage and kill cable adjusted correctly and the pump timing bumped up usually made a big improvement in power. 

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  • 1 year later...
On 7/13/2023 at 1:12 PM, Mackpro said:

Proper pump  timing is crucial for best performance. Using a Kent Moore A-B light , set the pump timing 1 degree higher than what the tag on the valve cover . Never more than 1.5 degrees or overheating will probably happen. We rarely ever messed with the pump .  Good injectors, turbo, valves adjusted correctly, throttle linkage and kill cable adjusted correctly and the pump timing bumped up usually made a big improvement in power. 

So when removing the pump for the truck. I use this light to tell me when the pump sees TDC. Once lights are both on does the pump remove the same way as an e6? (Three bolts holding it to motor). I have heard I have to take front cover off and remove gear before I can unbolt and slide pump out of the housing.

Edited by Mackman87

So you have n E-7. With a Robert Bosch pump.  Yes you roll the engine until both lights are lit. If you pass by it, back off 30+ degrees and try again. Then take note of the degree mark on the flywheel. You can also mark the plate on the pump gear just for extra reference. Then remove the pump. Will you be able to leave the crank shaft position alone during the pump work? 

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1 minute ago, Joey Mack said:

So you have n E-7. With a Robert Bosch pump.  Yes you roll the engine until both lights are lit. If you pass by it, back off 30+ degrees and try again. Then take note of the degree mark on the flywheel. You can also mark the plate on the pump gear just for extra reference. Then remove the pump. Will you be able to leave the crank shaft position alone during the pump work? 

That’s correct E7 with Robert Bosch. I will leave crank in the same position until reinstalled. So I do not need to remove front timing cover to remove gear off pump? Just unbolt it from engine housing?

You have to remove the front cover and the 4 bolts on the pump gear. Leave the gear meshed in the hole. The pump coupler will come out with the pump. When the pump is ready to install. You will use the light timer to make sure the pump is set before installation. then install the pump with 2 bolts secured in the pump gear. Then back it off 30+ degrees, and bring it up til the lights match, and check the degree mark on the flywheel. 1/2 degree early is ok.  If it is on the mark, lock it down.. your done... There are a few others here who know this better than me. I expect one to chime in..  jojo

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I really appreciate all the info! I can’t find people with the knowledge to do this around me so Im trying to learn myself. 
 

also if I wanted to add/remove pump timing I would back the motor off a degree or so according to flywheel with out pump or pump gear on correct?

Yes but you need to move the engine 30+ degrees back then go forward to remove gear lash..  a little gear lash effects a long way... Got it ??? The engine runs clockwise... 

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You will see that the holes in the pump drive gear are slotted. That is so you can make minor degree changes during set up. That is done by leaving 2 opposing bolts in place, and using the other 2 bolt holes to turn the pump without turning the engine. To do that part, the 2 bolts will need to be loosened up a little to allow the pump coupler to rotate. The gear will not move. I will look for a picture of the tool. You can make one... 

Thanks for all that info. I really enjoyed the YT video posted by BobWhite!  You can't beat videos like that for explaining everything that can go wrong.  I am getting ready to take my pump off to get the governor weights adjusted. It is a Robert Bosch pump on an E6-300.   The engine was only able to rev up to about 1550 rpm.

My earlier post from last year:

https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/73521-e6-285-2vh-problems-and-solutions/

  Someone had it set for "economode".  I only have a puff limiter on it and I talked to the diesel shop and they said they can't adjust governed speed without removing the pump as the cover is located next to the block which allows access to the weights and springs.  I am trying to figure out how to take it off so that I can give it to them and then put back on later without adjusting anything.  The truck is running fine.

A question I have for the E6.  I find number 1 compression TDC and then back off counterclockwise until I get to port closure at 22 deg BTC after removing gear lash?  Is  22 deg the standard and the same for an American Bosch pump?  Just want to make sure 22 degress is correct position  to leave engine in when removing the pump. If correct, then I can open front cover and remove 4 bolts on the gear and take everything out with the assembly. 

If I don't use a timing light, don't rotate engine (leave gear in place or mark across the gears for positioning)  and mark position of 4 bolts in slots on gear, I should be able to get my pump out and then they return it to me and just put the whole assembly back in?    Just want to  make sure I get timing right.  Hope this is correct!

 

Edited by allfritz123
grammar

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