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From what I can see, it’s a piece of metal tapped out because there’s two rivets on the side of it holding it in and in place at least I’m assuming that’s for the two rivets  are doing  clearly they put the rivets in before they glued all the pieces together. Thanks for that Larry.

So you can't drill and tap the broken bolts 

Or is there something we all can't see going on

Even just drill right thru and bung a big flat washer on the back and a nut

Must be more to this than meets the eye

 

 

Paul 

Yes, that’s the plan Paul right now. I’m just spraying the hell out of them with WD-40 tapping them around hoping maybe I can grab a hold of us studs and work them back-and-forth really slow you know take my time stop them spray them. No big hurry. I’ll work at it for a few weeks, if not next step drill them out and try easy outs or re-tap. Not sure if you understood that steel plate is inside the fiberglass and I can’t get to it without cutting a hole and pulling the plate out and replacing it. But I’m going to try the other two ideas first I hope that makes more sense.

The more I think about it, it might be easier just to cut a hole in the fiberglass and pull the plate out and replace it but we’ll see what happens frankly, I’m hoping I could turn the studs  and wind them out…. Bob

More grinding and sanding today a little later finding more and more problems as I go along no biggy they will all be fixed this is for you, Paul maybe this will explain why I can’t go to the back of the plate

 

 

IMG_2510.jpeg

The grill on my R model had bits of stell rusted inside the fiberglass, same sort of deal as you describe

I cut it open in a none obvious spot, I had a grill to cover the opening 

I then made some stainless plates and threaded them to suit and inserted and fiberglassed them in place

Works okay so far 

 

Paul 

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I would drill them through with a smaller bit for first and try tapping new threads. Not much of a deal to try. If no good results just drill through and fit nuts with washers. Those same latch catches on my R-model hood were fitted by bolts went through with nuts at the inner side originally. 

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Никогда не бывает слишком много грузовиков! leversole 11.2012

Cutting off a portion of the fiberglass to remove the old plate and implant a new one (sure made of SS to accompany SS bolts in the future) wouldn't be an easy deal since you'd need the edges of the cut smoothed out for new material to glue up over lagre area (the larger the better). The catch gets stress keeping the hood in place so the repaired area must be guaranteedy tough.

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Никогда не бывает слишком много грузовиков! leversole 11.2012

3 hours ago, mowerman said:

That’s a great idea. Thank you for that more sanding yesterday more sanding today … man paint is not coming off as easy as I though what a ball buster … bob

you can always go buy something new today ; I'm sure the paint will "fall off" . working on old is another sign of how well things were made back then.

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It's a chore..  I know..  Glad you are working on it..  its a cool truck..  Have a great 'Q'..  eat some yumm yumm for me..  Jojo

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4 minutes ago, Joey Mack said:

It's a chore..  I know..  Glad you are working on it..  its a cool truck..  Have a great 'Q'..  eat some yumm yumm for me..  Jojo

Right,,,,,,,,, Beef, ribs on top of that my brother

Atkinson trucks made in Australia had fiberglass cabs, a fella that restored on had the cab soda blasted instead of sanding it all and was happy with the results 

Might be worth looking into

 

Paul 

  • Like 1

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